DIY "cinch" Quick Adjust DIR Harness

[rhwestfall]

Instead of sewing the SS rings on each end, why not just use a triglide to secure them at the ends of the cinch webbings.
Thoughts?

Exactly. Sorry for no pics, my gear is in "winter mode" and I have been too busy to retrieve it, photograph, and post pics.

Depending on your plate, I used a tri-glide as a stopper: 2 Inch Stainless Steel Slider No Teeth "smooth" Heavy Duty Type

the harness webbing slides in a pair of these at each end: 2 Inch Stainless Steel Slider No Teeth "smooth" Heavy Duty Type or these: Contoured 2" inch Stainless Steel "SMOOTH" Tri-Glide one end on the harness webbing, and one as the anchor to the cinch, captured with a slider.

these are used instead of sewing as you can pass multiple layers of webbing: Wide 2 inch No Teeth Slide

On mine, I added a pair of XS-Scuba weight pockets, a trilobite, and d-rings/sliders for attachment points on the webbing.

I think they are about 10" completed.

Pictures perhaps today, sorry for delay....

 

[rhwestfall]

Okay, little description: This is a VDH Plate. It uses a single slot for the waist harness, so I had to make an "anchor". The slot is large, so it is a big tri-glide.

first picture shows the "cinch" on the bottom (outside), and the waist belt portion of the harness on top (inside).

second picture just "sucks" - sorry.. (but it helps as a visual somewhat)

third picture is the end of the "cinch" with the waist belt passing through (tri-glide as a slide)

fourth picture is the tri-glide as a holder (slide) for the waist belt at the plate

fifth picture is the anchor tri-glide due to the single slot in the plate (back side)

sixth picture is the whole assembly as accessorized to my needs (tri-glide is a "stopper" on the waist belt so it doesn't pull out)

seventh picture is the tri-glide "cinch" at the plate. ("cinch" on left, harness on right)

for me, 10"-12" seemed to work well, but it is a very narrow plate. Without the integrated weight pouch, it can be shorter.

Copying this, modifying, implementing, etc., is at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any results.


if anyone locates a "square" d-ding (I guess it isn't a d-ring then....) post a link. They might work better than the "beefy" tri-glides as the opening is bigger... IIRC - the manufactured one uses a d-ring, and I didn't like the round "slot"..

Perfect? No, but for what I spent to make it vs. what the "factory" ones cost, it sure pleases me....

 

[the_dragon_no1]

'm wondering if I can just thread the webbing in the bottom portion (waist area) over only one of the diagonal slot on the backplate instead of threading the webbing through the two slots. This, I assume, will allow the webbing to slide easily and permit me to loosen or tighten the harness as if I had a cinch. Then install a triglide as a stopper to prevent over-loosening of the waist portion of the harness.

Any thoughts if this will work?

Couldn't help myself trying this out!
Had an one piece webbing laying around, so plastic buckles/elite harness is history now..

Works great! easy to adjust, and stay in position well! (Don't mind the bungees, they are for something else)
And you don't feel any changes due that the webbing goes on the outside of the plate compared to the other side.

Can't be an easier fix to this "problem" than this huh ??

**going for a dive to test it now**

Edit:: and i dive twin hp steel tanks, so the weight is there for when i was testing

 

[rhwestfall]

one of the advantages I found with the "cinch" is that a can light (or various other elements as shown on my system) can be fixed to the cinch, and is unaffected by the waist belt that becomes "dynamic".

 

[Divetech99]

Couldn't help myself trying this out!
Had an one piece webbing laying around, so plastic buckles/elite harness is history now..

Works great! easy to adjust, and stay in position well! (Don't mind the bungees, they are for something else)
And you don't feel any changes due that the webbing goes on the outside of the plate compared to the other side.

Can't be an easier fix to this "problem" than this huh ??

**going for a dive to test it now**

Edit:: and i dive twin hp steel tanks, so the weight is there for when i was testing

This is good news . So, you don't really need a cinch system or special hardware to create an adjustable harness. .

Much appreciated If you could post more pics of your "no cinch" setup. Where did you put the stopper ?

Edit: ok. I see the stopper .

---------- Post added November 29th, 2014 at 07:25 PM ----------

one of the advantages I found with the "cinch" is that a can light (or various other elements as shown on my system) can be fixed to the cinch, and is unaffected by the waist belt that becomes "dynamic".

Yes. Agree. That's how the Halcyon cinch is designed. Nice DIY

 

[the_dragon_no1]

It so easy its almost stupid..
Just did a nice little dive, 5 cold degrees celsius in the sea here... system worked spot on, moved the rig around underwater, twisted here and there, valve drills, and similar... solid stuff

Edit: No, you absolutely don't need anything other than a single stopper..!

Was no problem removing the rig after the dive, standing tall on the ground! and again, this is with twin hp steel, AND permanent mountet si-tech ringsystem on suit arms

---------- Post added November 30th, 2014 at 04:40 AM ----------

And to point out, a more solid stopper might be better for that extra bit of safety on land. Not that the tanks will drop to the ground IF the stopper where to fail, but still, wouldn't hurt with a more solid one i guess

I hear "lots" of people say that there is no need for anything other than a proper adjusted harness, but i dont think it's as easy as this.. taste issue mayby.. but i will for shure continue to use this little mod, untill i see someone, with my own eyes, having a snug fitting setup, while still don/dof as easy as if you had buckles or similar!

 

[Divetech99]

It so easy its almost stupid..
Just did a nice little dive, 5 cold degrees celsius in the sea here... system worked spot on, moved the rig around underwater, twisted here and there, valve drills, and similar... solid stuff

Edit: No, you absolutely don't need anything other than a single stopper..!

Was no problem removing the rig after the dive, standing tall on the ground! and again, this is with twin hp steel, AND permanent mountet si-tech ringsystem on suit arms

---------- Post added November 30th, 2014 at 04:40 AM ----------

And to point out, a more solid stopper might be better for that extra bit of safety on land. Not that the tanks will drop to the ground IF the stopper where to fail, but still, wouldn't hurt with a more solid one i guess

I hear "lots" of people say that there is no need for anything other than a proper adjusted harness, but i dont think it's as easy as this.. taste issue mayby.. but i will for shure continue to use this little mod, untill i see someone, with my own eyes, having a snug fitting setup, while still don/dof as easy as if you had buckles or similar!

Congrats on building and testing this mod .

I assume you did this only on one side (right side). Do you think this is adequate? Do you think doing this mod on both sides will make dof/don/adjustments better or will it be an overkill?

I'm trying to visualize the mod and it seems that if done only on the right side, when you loosen the waist belt, the right side will drop by X inches until the stopper meets the backplate. The left side will hold its position (snug fit) since the DIY "No-Cinch Mod" (NCM) wasn't done on that side. However, if you adjust the fit of the rig, the right side where the mod is done, may tighten or loosen slightly more than the left side where the mod wasn't done. Thus, a bit of imbalance between the right and left shoulder harness.

If the DIY cinch is done on both sides, tightening the shoulder harness will presumably be more balance on both sides. However, if you loosen the waist belt, the rig will drop/slacken by X inches until the stopper on both sides hits the backplate.

So there are pros and cons on doing the NCM (no-cinch mod) on one side vs both sides. Just trying to visualize which is better.

Separately there is the issue on the light housing or pocket on the right side. The Halcyon or UTD setup provides for a cinch webbing that secures the pocket or light in a static position when the shoulder harness is being adjusted from the waist belt. Without this cinch webbing, the light canister/pocket will move towards the backplate when the right shoulder harness is loosened. Same issue with the waist D-ring on the left side.

To keep the position of the light/pocket (right side) and D-ring (left side) static, we may have to do a bit more modification as another member posted earlier with pics.

 

[the_dragon_no1]

On both sides is definitely overkill for just don/dof.. it's so easy with only one side (right).
No need to overdo or overthink this realy...
Yeah the right side will drop abit during loosening of the belt, but thats no problem, dont think it even went as far as to the stopper actually.. (?)

There is no problem with difference upon tightening, its not science, and it obly takes a sec to adjust it ao it will match the other side good enough!

Regarding canister/pocket i haven't realy tryed anything.. im building a new canisyer light as we speak, so it's under the knife now... and i use very smal canisters (led), so i dont see a problem here, it wouldn't move around or anything during dive without something holding it in place.
But yeah it would move upon loosening the webb i guess, again haven't tryed, but im thinking if you are on a bench/similar and not Standing tall, when don/dof, its no problem anyways.. tighten belt, drag canister onto belt, secure belt. Done.
Maybe bigger canisters need another mod for securing it ?

 

[The Chairman]

quick cinch have AGIR-BROKK too but more universal Backplate Acc.

but realy as WhiteSands say proper adjustment is better.

Where can I buy this??? I love it!

 

[Akimbo]

Where can I buy this??? I love it!

You can do about the same thing with a footman's loop if you can't find them or shipping is too high. You might have to drill a hole or two on each side if the slots don't line up.

Stainless Steel Footman Loop

I have always set my plates up so the webbing slides through the lower slots, which was the norm since I began diving.