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"GUE's equipment configuration is based on the DIR philosophy of diving that promotes diver safety and enjoyment through a reasoned approach to teamwork, equipment choices and diver training. GUE's equipment configuration is holistically conceived to be functional, with minor adaptations, in any environment."

You might want to re-read #5 below: "Long Hose: Optional in shallow, open water diving,"

On the other hand, #26 states: "Primary Light: Hip-mounted, canister-style light; this is optional in some environments, but valuable in nearly all." According to DIR, both cannister light and long hose are optional, yet the cannister light is at least valuable in nearly all. Does it say the long hose is valuable in shallow, open water diving? Uh, no.

Clearly, if it's "optional", it's not necessary. If it's not necessary for the dive, it should be left behind.
Pedantic much?

I think you'll find the list doesn't explicitly state the "long hose" is necessary or "valuable in shallow, open water diving" because some hose is necessary (and valuable), whether you choose long or short. On the contrary, not all dives require a light, canister or otherwise, but it's almost always nice to have a light for looking into holes etc (hence the valuable part).

The OP has made his choice based upon his own diving choices and you've made yours. Why argue about either one?
 
Long Hose: Optional in shallow, open water diving, but mandatory in deeper or overhead diving; the long hose simplifies air sharing. When used, the long hose, along with the primary regulator, should ALWAYS be placed on the diver's right post.

Meow! But lets not go there.

I've been diving the long hose in rec configuration for about a year and half. Initially I moved over to this style to cut down on equipment I need to carry. In my previous life I was a travelling rec & tec instructor. So the choice to ditch the Octo and dive with a bungeed back-up and long-hose seemed like a no-brainer; less equipment, less baggage.

However...

In the course of the last year I've also gotten into photography in a big way (no strobes yet, have to pay for Uni) and now I find that I need my equipment to more minimal than ever before. I simply don't want extra equipment getting in the way. I dive with miflex long hose and it's quite buoyant. Although I normally stuff it into my harness waist band, I find that the constant movement and stretching (for that perfect angle) seems to pull it out again and again, causing me to have focus on it, rather than f-stops and composition. So in that sense I'm finding favour in the short hose for rec diving.

As regards the Octo to "extend the dive". Sorry OOA = ASCEND. You don't get to keep looking for pygmy seahorses after one gomer has run out of air. Be they close or far apart. Plan your dive, dive your plan.
 
Sometimes it is part of the plan. Practice air share and extend the dive at the same time. Also works if I'm diving a pumped up 95 and my buddy has an al 80. Do an extended air share swim and still be able to look at stuff without worrying about being too close and do it in good trim.
 
Sometimes it is part of the plan. Practice air share and extend the dive at the same time. Also works if I'm diving a pumped up 95 and my buddy has an al 80. Do an extended air share swim and still be able to look at stuff without worrying about being too close and do it in good trim.

No. It leads to complacency. At the end of the day, one buddy is OOA. An event has already happened and indeed lightning may not strike twice, but if something did happen at this point, you 2 could both be in serious danger.
 
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"GUE's equipment configuration is based on the DIR philosophy of diving that promotes diver safety and enjoyment through a reasoned approach to teamwork, equipment choices and diver training. GUE's equipment configuration is holistically conceived to be functional, with minor adaptations, in any environment."

You might want to re-read #5 below: "Long Hose: Optional in shallow, open water diving,"

On the other hand, #26 states: "Primary Light: Hip-mounted, canister-style light; this is optional in some environments, but valuable in nearly all." According to DIR, both cannister light and long hose are optional, yet the cannister light is at least valuable in nearly all. Does it say the long hose is valuable in shallow, open water diving? Uh, no.

Clearly, if it's "optional", it's not necessary. If it's not necessary for the dive, it should be left behind.

You might want to check out the GUE site. It may clear up your obvious misconceptions about DIR. It is very much about equipment.
DIR Equipment Configuration

A good SCUBA equipment configuration should allow for the addition of items necessary to perform a specific dive without interfering with or changing the existing configuration. Diving with the same configuration not only helps solve problems, it prevents them.
Following is a list of equipment as that is of prime consideration:
  1. Mask: Low Volume mask reduces drag and requires less effort to clear it of water.
  2. Primary Regulator: Quality regulator that will be passed to an out-of-air diver.
  3. Short Hose: Should be long enough to breathe comfortably, but not long enough to bow and create drag.
  4. Back-Up Regulator: Quality regulator that a diver will use as a reserve either in the event of a failure or in an air-sharing episode.
  5. Long Hose: Optional in shallow, open water diving, but mandatory in deeper or overhead diving; the long hose simplifies air sharing. When used, the long hose, along with the primary regulator, should ALWAYS be placed on the diver's right post.
  6. Back-Up Lights: Tucked away to reduce drag but still allow for easy one-hand removal.
  7. Goodman Handle Light Head: Allows for hands-free diving while allowing the diver to easily direct the focused light beam.
  8. Thermal Suit: Appropriate to keep diver alert and comfortable.
  9. Crotch Strap: Allows for custom fit, and supports two D-rings: one works as a scooter attachment point; (divers should not hang equipment here as it would hang too low); and one further up, closer to the back plate, which works for towing additional gear. The crotch strap also holds the BC in position and prevents the BC from floating up away from the body.
  10. Hood: Where necessary to keep diver alert and comfortable.
  11. Mask Strap: Strong strap that will resist breaking.
  12. Necklace: Designed to hold the back-up regulator within easy access.
  13. Corrugated Hose: Should be just long enough to allow for ear clearing and potential dry suit inflation while actuating inflator, but not so long that it drags or entangles easily.
  14. Power Inflation Hose: Should be long enough for a diver to easily use his/her corrugated hose, but not long enough for it to bow or otherwise create excess drag.
  15. D-rings: No more than two on the chest, positioned to reduce the drag of attached items; one hip D-ring to hold the pressure gauge.
  16. Pressure Gauge Hose: Custom hose allows a diver to easily read the gauge after unclipping, but does not bow or dangle, thus avoiding excess drag.
  17. Pressure Gauge: Quality brass gauge should be easy to read and reliable.
  18. Knife: Waist-mounted in front, near the center of the diver's body, for easy access.
  19. Pockets: Hip-mounted to reduce drag; these pockets are ideal for storing slates, decompression tables, small guideline spools or other necessary equipment.
The following additional configuration items appear on the next two pages:
  1. Knobs: Soft knobs (to limit risk of breakage) should be opened completely.
  2. Valve: Contingent on environment and diving activity. Dual orifice valves (H or Manifold) are an excellent way to increase safety and redundancy.
  3. Burst Disks: Use of double disks prevents accidental burst failure.
  4. Buoyancy Compensator: Adjusted based upon needed lift whether one is diving single or double tanks. Buoyancy should be sufficient to float equipment by itself while at the surface.
  5. Cylinders: Contingent on environment and diving activity.
  6. Harness and Backplate: Designed to hold the diver snugly to their rig while reducing drag and increasing control.
  7. Primary Light: Hip-mounted, canister-style light; this is optional in some environments, but valuable in nearly all.
  8. Alternate Lift Device: Lift bag, diver alert marker, or surface life raft, for open water diving. Halcyon's MC system allows for storage in backplate pack for increased streamlining.
  9. Overboard Discharge: Also known as a P-Valve; used with a condom catheter by male divers to allow for urination during long dives with a dry suit.
  10. Bottom Timer / depth gauge: Wrist mounted to eliminate drag and entanglement.
  11. Watch: Wrist-mounted, with a functional stopwatch to allow for timing safety or decompression stops.
  12. Compass: Wrist mounted to eliminate drag and entanglement.
  13. Fins: These should have no attachment buckles that can break. Replace with a more robust connection.
  14. Guideline Reel: Use is contingent on the diving environment; it is usually mounted on the rear crotch strap D-ring for streamlining and to reduce clutter. Spools and other guideline devices are usually kept in the diver's hip-mounted pocket.

And your point to this list is? You interpret this list as a MUST HAVE ON EVERY DIVE REGARDLESS WHAT IT IS? I rest my case: You are not thinking. There is a difference between EQUIPMENT and EQUIPMENT CONFIGURATION. The list is on EQUIPMENT CONFIGURATION, not MANDATORY EQUIPMENT TO BRING ON EVERY DIVE.

BTW, stating the long hose is optional but not debating its merits is a sign of concede that it is better, yes? :D

I like how a person who took something from the website and insist he is right against another who is actually doing it. Was this how you conduct your business as a lawyer in the past?

BTW, thank you for posting the list because you have already subconsciously agreed that I am right. Still want to argue? Or you ready to admit I am right? :D
 
And your point to this list is? You interpret this list as a MUST HAVE ON EVERY DIVE REGARDLESS WHAT IT IS? I rest my case: You are not thinking. There is a difference between EQUIPMENT and EQUIPMENT CONFIGURATION. The list is on EQUIPMENT CONFIGURATION, not MANDATORY EQUIPMENT TO BRING ON EVERY DIVE.

BTW, stating the long hose is optional but not debating its merits is a sign of concede that it is better, yes? :D

I like how a person who took something from the website and insist he is right against another who is actually doing it. Was this how you conduct your business as a lawyer in the past?

BTW, thank you for posting the list because you have already subconsciously agreed that I am right. Still want to argue? Or you ready to admit I am right? :D
DIR isn't about thinking. The thinking has already been done for you. Except for the items that are marked as "optional", yes, the rest of the equipment is mandatory or it's not DIR. You're not actually "doing it" as you claim if you're picking and choosing stuff you like and ignoring stuff you don't like because it's a holistic system. If any part of you is doing it wrong, you're not doing it right. Maybe you should retake one of those expensive GUE classes because it seems like you missed the most important lessons.
 
Randy...I will repeat a comment I made on your initial post...be careful not to become (at the other end of the spectrum) what you seem to not appreciate from your present instructor...a very channelized vision of how things should be. When I dive doubles I use a 7ft long hose but not so when I dive single even though I still dive a BP/W (but that could change if I end up doing wreck penetration for example).

However, in OW and diving single tank, I do not see the requirement for long hose and I can assure you that I have had my instances of towing divers who ended up low on air and I did so on short hose. If a long hose is your preference...good for you but don't chastitized those may not share your preference.

I also think the point Jim was trying to make (and he can correct me if I am wrong) is the fact that the folks on his next course will all be going through the same drills but not exactly doing so in the same fashion as some will be using BP/W and long hoses and other might be using BP/W with short hoses (especially if diving singles) and others, more traditional BCD and reg set-up. As a matter of fact, it will be a very good thing for all as the students will have to adapt to the equipment and scenario they will be facing which will force them to think.

Where I come from we have a saying ...l'habit ne fais pas le moine. (You can't judge a book by its cover...I think). To me, there is much more to diving than equipment and configuration. While knowledge and skills may be very important, attitude will dictate if I will dive with somebody or not.
 
DIR isn't about thinking. The thinking has already been done for you. Except for the items that are marked as "optional", yes, the rest of the equipment is mandatory or it's not DIR. You're not actually "doing it" as you claim if you're picking and choosing stuff you like and ignoring stuff you don't like because it's a holistic system. If any part of you is doing it wrong, you're not doing it right. Maybe you should retake one of those expensive GUE classes because it seems like you missed the most important lessons.

No wonder you are so against it cos you got it all wrong. But pardon me, I missed the part where it says YOU took a DIR course; or you you based it on hearsay? Again, you totally sidestepped the the points and make one up which looks like you are on pint but is off. Typical lawyer tactics? DIR is about bringing only hat you need. If you dont need doubles, dive singles. If you dont need the light, dont take it. Period. If you confuse Equipment Configuration with Mandatory Equipment, I rest my case. You can go on and on and make yourself feel good in your own la la land, but that's all there is to it.

And lastly, admit it. You know I am right.
 
Ok.

However, in my defense, I may have a preference like anyone else and will go to lengths to extol their virtues; but I will never shut down information and dismiss something as "hush, dont talk about it" or blow up smoke to try to prove it to the point of misinformation (I think).

So for the record, this is my opinion and my stand. If anyone disagree, then just agree to disagree:

In an OW, a short hose is generally sufficient if you do not want to air-share OR you intend to ascend from where you are directly after an air-share while hugging your buddy. A long hose on the other hand, allow both of you to sqaure away and sort out your own stuff before you ascend OR allow you to comfortably swim to an upline before you ascend OR allow you to comfortably shoot a bag to ascend in the event you cannot swim to an upline to signal the boat to pick you up.

In other words, there is nothing wrong with riding a bike (bicycle or motorbike, you choose) from Las Vegas to LA, but I would rather much ride in a sedan even though it is not really "necessary". Both gets the job done, one does it better.
 
-- deleted, double post --
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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