Looking for Tekna 2100BX Second Stage Repair Parts

[Nemrod]

I did remove that diaphragm before finding your multiple posts where you said it was a bad idea. Story of my life so to speak...

In any case, I don't think it made much of a difference, because the part does seem pretty hard, and that embedded grain of sand was right on the edge of one of those holes in the showerhead looking thing. Now that the grain of sand is gone there is a pit in the diaphragm in that spot, so even if I was able to get it back to the exact same spot, I'm sure it would leak. I will give your restoration methods a try.

I am not sure if I am diagnosing this properly, but the tilt valve seems ok. I can't feel any air leaking from around the tilt valve stem.

Does anyone have a service manual for these things?

Put it back together, minus the external housing, and then put it under pressure and place it in the water. Where do the various streams of bubbles come from?

N

 

[Six2Life]

Put it back together, minus the external housing, and then put it under pressure and place it in the water. Where do the various streams of bubbles come from?

N

Only the showerhead, none from around the tilt valve stem.

---------- Post added April 19th, 2014 at 06:18 PM ----------

Success!!!

Resurfacing the main diaphragm worked! She seals up tight as a drum now. When I pressurize the reg and then shut the tank valve off it will hold IP for a good 30min. (so far)

The diaphragm had some sort of "crust" formed on the outer layer that had some very small cracks that would form when flexed. I took a 3"x3" sheet of 1000grit sandpaper and lined up it's edge with the edge of a flat, square table. Hanging the center metal orifice of the diaphragm over the edge of the table I would drag the edge of it down the sandpaper while also rotating it. Once the edge of the sandpaper was black from being clogged with material, I would trim the clogged portion off exposing fresh paper. After about 5 cycles, no leaks.

 

[Nemrod]

Only the showerhead, none from around the tilt valve stem.

---------- Post added April 19th, 2014 at 06:18 PM ----------

Success!!!

Resurfacing the main diaphragm worked! She seals up tight as a drum now. When I pressurize the reg and then shut the tank valve off it will hold IP for a good 30min. (so far)

The diaphragm had some sort of "crust" formed on the outer layer that had some very small cracks that would form when flexed. I took a 3"x3" sheet of 1000grit sandpaper and lined up it's edge with the edge of a flat, square table. Hanging the center metal orifice of the diaphragm over the edge of the table I would drag the edge of it down the sandpaper while also rotating it. Once the edge of the sandpaper was black from being clogged with material, I would trim the clogged portion off exposing fresh paper. After about 5 cycles, no leaks.

I am glad to hear that. I am one of the few, now including you, that know that little trick. I was hopeful that it would work. I prefer Micro Mesh for this operation but I figured you would easily find the 1000 wet dry which is sufficient for the purpose to remove the oxidized surface layer.

N