I just wanted to come back and revisit this issue, in case someone else has a problem down the line.
I asked the engineering dept. as well as the regulator dept. folks to take a look at the posts on here and offer some input, and here you go:
After reading some of the answers on the Scuba Board, the first thing
we have to make clear is that the Inflator Module (the part with the female ¼”
Hex socket) should NEVER be tightened to stop a leak at this point.
Going past the point where the technician installing the Module feels
the head of the Module come in contact with the Inflator Body, can
result in cracks at the Module’s head section and a bigger leak. The
first step a technician should try is simply rotating the Module with a
¼” Hex wrench about ¼ of a turn counter-clockwise and then about ¼”
clockwise or until he feels the two parts making contact. This will
sometimes allow the O-ring to re-align itself just enough to stop a
small leak like this. If that doesn’t cure the problem, the next step
would be to remove the Module then remove the two O-rings and
re-lubricate them with thick O-ring Grease. This will sometimes remove small debris caught under the O-ring that can cause a small leak.
The good news here is that small leak is not indicative of an imminent
larger failure. The O-ring is fully captured and as long as the Module
is not over-tightened, the leak will not increase.
The bad news is that leaks like this in plastic parts are often a
result of shrinkage variations that can occur when plastic parts are molded and cured.
Unlike brass dimensions that are easily held consistent and within
narrow tolerances, plastic parts will vary. What this means is that
the only full cure for this leak may be the replacement of the full inflator assembly.
Zeagle's warranty, of course, will cover this, and a bonus of the Bx
Connection at the Zeagle Inflator’s Corrugated Hose, is that the
switch can be made easily with no tools.
Thanks,
Scott