New Point and Shoot!!!

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Two quick question. Are you attaching the camera to you BC? If you are how (rope, cord, retractor, etc)?
This is what I use. Works great. Clips close enough to not have to hold it all the time and when released gives enough freedom of movement for any situation while insuring it won't end up on the bottom of the sea.

Aqua Quick Release Coil Lanyard from LeisurePro.com

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Hi Mayor,

The first thing you need to buy is the bracket that attaches to the camera and holds the lenses in place. You will need first to determine which particular bracket is the correct one to attach to your camera, as there are many for the many different housings. Please keep in mind that the lenses are interchangeable underwater, which is another convenient feature. And of course, if you buy more than one lense, than you will need a lens caddy to hold one of the lenses when it is not being used.

With regard to lenses, there are only three, the close-up lens (UCL-165AD), the wide angle lense (UWL-105AD) and the fisheye wide angle lense (UFL-165AD).

The fisheye lense is covers such a wide angle, that it is not practicle unless you have two strobes, so I would rule that one out for now. The wide angle lense is a great for shooting wreck and other larger subjects. The close-up lense is ideal for most shots and is the one I use the most, because the shots generally come out better.

I cannot tell exactly which lense to buy first, because that is really a matter of preference and I do not know how many small subjects vs. large subjects you will be shooting. Our cameras are ok, but they have limitations, which is why close-up shots tend ot be better. Wide angle shots, like the picture of the eel in my gallery are tough, because with one strobe it is difficult to light up the subject properly, but the shots can come out ok.

If you would like some practical advice, I would contact Ryan at Reef Photo (Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros). That's a local underwater photography shop here in Ft. Lauderdale. Ryan will be able to give better advice than I can. Plus, they sell and stock all the items you will need, but you can see them on their website.

If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me anytime and I would be happy to offer my advice and/or opinion.
 
Well looks like I will start with the set up I have then look at some other items for the start of the next diving season (March). I will reach out if I have any questions.
 
It came today and it looks great. This is a shot of the same set up as mine. I got everything to work and then started to set it up for underwater photos. Set my white balance to cloudy. Then set the ISO to 200. This should be a good start.

One thing that I do not like is the camera wants to slide on the base if not cranked down. Thinking of putting something down to keep it in place. Also the strobe wire can be run better. I just have to play with it to see what works.



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Wanted to post a few shots of the camera. I know when I was looking pictures were hard to come by of the camera and how it worked with the case and strobe. Thanks for all your help. Will post some shots when I get back from Cozumel.

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Just a few more I hope it helps anyone looking to start with a small underwater camera.

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Glad you were able to find a setup that works for you. You should have a lot of fun with it in Cozumel. My biggest problem is getting the dive boats to allow me to stay down long enough to get lots of pictures, since my 2 Meg memory chip allows me to take up to 500+ shots at the 8 Megapixel resolution. I dive a closed circuit rebreather now, which allows me to stay down longer and doesn't let out any bubbles on my exhalation, so I can get pretty close to the marine life without spooking them.

I'm looking forward to seeing some of your pics.

Let the fun begin!

Adrian
 
Glad you were able to find a setup that works for you. You should have a lot of fun with it in Cozumel. My biggest problem is getting the dive boats to allow me to stay down long enough to get lots of pictures, since my 2 Meg memory chip allows me to take up to 500+ shots at the 8 Megapixel resolution. I dive a closed circuit rebreather now, which allows me to stay down longer and doesn't let out any bubbles on my exhalation, so I can get pretty close to the marine life without spooking them.

I'm looking forward to seeing some of your pics.

Let the fun begin!

Adrian

Sounds like a nice set up I got the 2meg card for mine. As for the rebreather now thats a cool system. Will have to try one someday. For now its just me and my bubbles!
 
My wife is looking at me funny as I drill into my new camera rig!!!

First off I put some HD female velcro down on the base the camera sits on. This lets the feet from the housing dig in a bit. Now I do not have to crank it down. After taking a few shot and taking the camera out for a charge. I found that the optical cable almost got stuck in the o-ring seal. It was going to close with the cable inside. I could see me doing this and flooding the unit. So I put two small holes in the base and ran the cable under the base and then back up another mounting hole. This really works well.

I did come up with a few questions that I have not yet found answers to in any of the books for the housing. Do you store the housing closed? Do you store the unit with the o-ring left in it? Do you remove it and store it inside the housing or ziploc? When you greese the o-ring do you do this every time you open up the unit? For example if I dive for two weeks do I remove and greese the o-ring once per week?

Thanks again for any information.

A few shots of my changes.

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My wife is looking at me funny as I drill into my new camera rig!!!

First off I put some HD female velcro down on the base the camera sits on. This lets the feet from the housing dig in a bit. Now I do not have to crank it down. After taking a few shot and taking the camera out for a charge. I found that the optical cable almost got stuck in the o-ring seal. It was going to close with the cable inside. I could see me doing this and flooding the unit. So I put two small holes in the base and ran the cable under the base and then back up another mounting hole. This really works well.

I did come up with a few questions that I have not yet found answers to in any of the books for the housing. Do you store the housing closed? Do you store the unit with the o-ring left in it? Do you remove it and store it inside the housing or ziploc? When you greese the o-ring do you do this every time you open up the unit? For example if I dive for two weeks do I remove and greese the o-ring once per week?

Thanks again for any information.

A few shots of my changes.

At first glance, I might also be tempted to look at you funny if I saw you taking a power drill to your new camera housing setup! However, it seems like the modifications you made really draw that optical cable away from the back hatch of the housing and get it out of the way in general - nice job.

I am in no way the foremost authority on underwater camera care, but I may be able to share some info with you. Hopefully some of those hardcore underwater photographers on this board will chime in and give us some advice.

As far as storing the housing open or closed, my housing came with a rubber piece that holds the back hatch just slightly open. I usually leave it like that (which puts NO pressure on the o-ring at all) and cover it with a towel, so no dust gets inside. I tend to dive almost every weekend, so my camera doesn't sit there for very long. As far as the o-ring goes, I've heard that one should have two sets og o-rings (one to store it and one to use it). I can see where the o-ring can be affected if you leave it closed and smashed too long, but I have not gone that route yet, and as I indicated, leave it slightly open, which doesn't affect the o-ring. I also don't think that you need to be overly obsessive about lubricating the o-ring. I think the key is to ensure that it is clean (free of any dust, lint, hairs, particles, salt, etc.) and that it is not dry. Under normal circumstances, the o-ring should not dry out overnight. I usually just make sure all the o-rings are clean (camera and strobe), and make sure the space where the o-rings sit are clean as well, then I moisten my fingers with the silicon the housing came with and just make sure the o-ring has the tiniest film of silicon and is not dry.

The bottom line is that if you are detailed and meticulous with your o-rings, then you will most likely avoid flooding your housing and camera. However, if you are not meticulous enough, you run the risk of flooding. I therefore feel you can't go wrong by being meticulous.

I've also heard that you should try to keep your camera soaking in fresh water after the dive, to ensure that the salt crystals don't dry on your o-rings. Rinse buckets on boats will help with that and will help with avoiding condensation inside the housing when you hit the water.

Hopefully someone more knowledgable will chime in and offer some helpful suggestions.

Adrian
 

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