Newbie light buyer

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And if your goal is wreck diving, it is very unlikely that a canister light will ever make sense.
Also, if I'm getting this correctly do you mean that the extra duration that a canister offers is intended mainly for longer cave dives, while it's usually an overkill for wreck dives (where the deco stops will most possibly be in OW environment)?
 
Thanks so much, that was all really helpful to clear my mind a bit!


Spot on! I just realised that the narrow beam on the VTL4200P is claimed at 1300 lux (4200 on flood mode). I was thinking of it as an upgraded version of the TL3800.

In that case, indeed only the VTL9000P would make sense for what I had in mind, which brings the budget up to £725 in UK.

In the menawhile, have you tested it underwater since you received it? Are you happy with the duration and how it performs underwater?
TBH the price tag seems quite steep for BB's questionable(?) reliability, or for somehting that will be replaced by a better spot light sooner or later.
Also this one seems quite bulky to ever be considered as a backup torch.



I hear you! My upcoming plans are to delve into tec diving, focusing on wrecks as the Channel here offers plenty of options.
Regarding video shooting, while it's not a priority my camera does come with me usually during my rec dives, so I might also consider dedicated video light(s) at some point (also for night dives).


All in all, now I'm leaning more towards the DiveRite LX20+ which is a reputable brand and will serve me well in the tec diving journey and I can keep my Seac R15 as a night torch for now with its12/75° angle.

One last question:)
Leaving video/photography aside, what would you say that is the biggest disadvantage(s) -if any- of a solid 6° beam like the LX20+, or a dive scenario that you wouldn't bring this light with you.

Thanks again, appreciate all the insight!

I would not bring the LX20+ if the dive was expected to be long enough to actually need a can light. i would not bring it as a backup to some other light. I wouldn’t bring it on a dive where I didn’t really expect to use a light at all (but I would bring a DGX700 or some other low-bulk light).

In other words, it’s a bit bulky. So I would only bring it if I needed a light of that capability specifically.

Also, if I'm getting this correctly do you mean that the extra duration that a canister offers is intended mainly for longer cave dives, while it's usually an overkill for wreck dives (where the deco stops will most possibly be in OW environment)?

Exactly. A long wreck dive is 2-3 hours. Generally with well over half that being at deco stops in relatively shallow water (30-40 feet or shallower).
 
Get the Xtar PB2S charger if you're going to carry 21700s. It's like 15 bucks, really worth it. It has USB type C, a display for battery percentage and works as a power bank.

Some people have mentioned xtar. I own a bunch of their products and recently got some more. I bought my wife a pb2s charger that can charge two 21700s, four xtar brand 21700s and two Sofirn SD05 torches. I got it all for just over 6k pesos, so like 120 US dollars. She uses them for night diving a lot and says she likes them. I'm dubious of the quality of a dive torch that's only 50 bucks (maybe 30 bucks if you can find it) but what I definitely want to recommend is that charger. The cheap torches seem fine and actually look and feel really nice but I would recommend not choosing cheap if you're going overhead diving.

I have an Xtar video light that takes 4 18650s and I like it so far but haven't had it long.

I also have the old xtar charger similar to the PB2S that's a little smaller, only takes 18650s and has micro USB and I still use it after like 5 years I think. It has a little display that shows the battery percentage and it works as a power bank which has really come in handy since I was carrying it anyway.
 
The cheapest and most simple dive light from Princeston tec is all you need. The attitude cost $35. Big expensive dive lights are unnecessary. All you need is a little light in front of you, and a back up.
 
The cheapest and most simple dive light from Princeston tec is all you need. The attitude cost $35. Big expensive dive lights are unnecessary. All you need is a little light in front of you, and a back up.
I tend to agree although I haven't done any cave diving but I did do a few dozen wreck dives in Coron a few years back and my cheap 18650 torch was fine. It's the same one that was fine at an indoor range stateside on several pistols more than a year before so it had really been shaken up and jarred.

But what works for a cowboy might not work for someone more cautious.
 
The cheapest and most simple dive light from Princeston tec is all you need. The attitude cost $35. Big expensive dive lights are unnecessary. All you need is a little light in front of you, and a back up.

Alright, let's discuss this a bit more as I appreciate all the insight!

So I get that people tend to exaggerate with what's actually needed, but in what circumstances would you only dive with a couple of 100 lux torches (which is the cheapest model from Princeton tec)?

Completely fine for day/night recreational dives but would you really not consider something stronger (but mainly with higher redundancy) if you were penetrating a deeper wreck or even more a cave?

I understand that in an emergency case an experienced diver should be able to adjust and complete such a dive with the minimum requirements, but hopefully you'll never get to such an emergency situation so why would you restrict yourself so much? (budget is an obvious reason, but still as long as your gear doesn't compromise on safety at all)

In the end of the day, as I see it it's not only what the minimum requirements are, but also what would make your dive more worry-free, safe and enjoyable.
And by enjoyable, by no means I say bring disco lights on a casual night dive :) but -for instance- being able to better illuminate and admire a wreck, rather than just being able to see your way in/out.

My comments above with all due respect, from a diver that's just starting the tec dive journey and is picking your more experienced brains!
 
Completely fine for day/night recreational dives but would you really not consider something stronger (but mainly with higher redundancy) if you were penetrating a deeper wreck or even more a cave?

I think you're off a bit, there. A very low-powered light is really not very useful on a day dive when you have reasonable ambient light.

I.e. if I'm doing a reef dive in nice clear water, on a nice sunny day, a 200 lumen light is probably not even worth taking in the water. But, a 1000 lumen light is.

On those kind of dives, you're using your light to shine in holes, under ledges, etc.. When there's a lot of ambient light around you, a weak light is going to be barely perceptible, even shined into a dark area.

On the other hand, a weaker light is often plenty good on a night dive. I usually use a 1000 lumen video light on night dives. With a really wide beam, that 1000 lumens does not light up any particular spot very brightly. But, as my eyes are adjusted to the dark (because we're talking about a night dive), that light is plenty and has the added benefit that it doesn't blind the critters I'm looking for as badly.

"1000 lumen" lights are so affordable nowadays, there's really not much reason to buy anything less. A light with a Cree XM-L2 LED emitter and a single 18650 battery is that type of light. They're inexpensive and will generally burn for a good 90 minutes.

A Luminus SST-40 LED emitter is newer and better, but in the same general class.

A 21700 battery is 50% more capacity, so will give 50% more burn time.

An XM-L2 with an 18650 was the Gold Standard for backup lights.

I think an SST-40 with a 21700 is poised to be the new Gold Standard for backup lights.

However, an XM-L2 with a 21700 is a really good setup, too. It won't go as bright on its highest setting as a light with an SST-40 (which will comfortably run at 1700 lumens), but it will do 1000 and give a much better burn time than the same thing with an 18650 battery.

Which brings me to my current trinity of backup light choices.

DGX700 - XM-L2/21700. Pro: Twist on for best reliability. Con: Only one brightness.

Orcatorch D710 - Luminus ??/21700. Pro: Multiple brightnesses. Con: Push button, which means potential for accidental turn-ons. Not any brighter than DGX700, despite their claims.

Dive Rite CX2 - SST-40/21700. Pro: Multiple brightnesses. Brighter on max then the other 2. Con: Push button. Too long and a bit too thick for my preference in a backup light.

I have a small video light that is twist on/off. If you twist if off and back on quickly, it toggles between high brightness and low brightness. So, I KNOW that a light can be made that is twist on/off, and has multiple brightness levels.

I'm waiting for the Unicorn (speaking figuratively) backup light, which would be:

- Twist on/off
- 2 brightness levels (1500 and 750 lumens)
- 21700 battery
- Luminus SST-40 LED emitter
- size and shape of the DGX700 or D710

I keep hoping DGX will update the DGX700 to this. Change the LED and the electronics with it and done.

Meanwhile, we wait....
 
100 lux torches
FYI, it's lumens.

Lux is lumens per unit area, so that light might be 20,000 lux up close, so quite suitable for poking under ledges. (I'm assuming a spot diameter of 8 cm.)

Edit: @stuartv makes a good point about contrast against lots of ambient light. Very dependent on your situation.

Something like the LX20+ (at 1500 lumens) is useful at longer distances: 19,000 lux when shining on something 3 m away -- about the same as that small torch is up close. If visibility is poor though or for close work, the LX20's low setting (75 lumens) is more useful so as to not blind myself.

Would I buy that 100 lm torch for OW? No, I'd buy something in the 1000 lm range (single 18650 battery) that can be either 1000 lm OR 100-200 lm as I choose.
 
FYI, it's lumens.

Lux is lumens per unit area, so that light might be 20,000 lux up close, so quite suitable for poking under ledges. (I'm assuming a spot diameter of 8 cm.)
Correct, just educated myself on the difference as well!


I have a small video light that is twist on/off. If you twist if off and back on quickly, it toggles between high brightness and low brightness. So, I KNOW that a light can be made that is twist on/off, and has multiple brightness levels.
I saw this comment on another thread and I was wondering which light it is because I couldn't find any with such specs.

I have conluded on the Dive Rite LX20+ as a primary and the DGX700 as a backup if I manage to find it in UK (seems impossible atm), so I might end up with the orcatorch 700/710.

Thanks for all the info!
 
I saw this comment on another thread and I was wondering which light it is because I couldn't find any with such specs.

It is this light. I don't know why the web page doesn't mention the 2 brightness levels. It should. It's a great feature. I have the light. I use it as a focus light on my camera, which also makes it my night dive light.


I have conluded on the Dive Rite LX20+ as a primary and the DGX700 as a backup if I manage to find it in UK (seems impossible atm), so I might end up with the orcatorch 700/710.

Thanks for all the info!

I think the DGX700 is mail-order only, from Dive Gear Express. But, I'm pretty sure they will ship to the UK...

 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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