Nusa Lembongan, Raja Ampat and Lembeh Trips

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Wisnu

Contributor
Messages
1,773
Reaction score
822
Location
Bali, Indonesia
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Part 0 – The Journey .. and misery

There's only few choice available for us to escape from our "gulag", in fact, there's only one airline; Air Astana which is claimed as the best airline in east Europe.
We chose the route Atyrau - Almaty - Bangkok; 14 hours travel time including 5 hours transit time in Almaty. We were traveling with biz classl. For bangkok - jakarta we chose Air Asia, since didn't want to overnight in Bangkok. Seem good plan.
The flight arrived in Almaty on time, but the terminal security did not allow us to enter the biz lounge despite we used interconnecting flight and having boarding pass with us.
"Sir, the lounge will only open to passenger 2 hours before departure"
The airport was very crowded, no bench available for us to rest. We complained to the airline customer service.
"It's a rule must be obeyed" no smile !
"so, where we can sit and wait?"
"that's not my problem!"
OMG. I can understand flight delay particularly on winter but receiving such kind response from 4 star skytarx airline is a shock.

Two hours before scheduled ETD, we tried again to the biz lounge. Still, the same security refused us again; same reason - the lounge open to passenger 2 hours before departure .. but the flight delayed for another 2 hours.
Two hours later, we tried again – still no success, the flight was delayed for another 4 hours.
Enough is enough. After my flare-up, they put us into small hotel not far from the airport. It is good hotel if you are in weight reducing program - they check the weight each portion of meal; pay extra if you want more.

8415400913_5f014e3649_z.jpg

Stranded in Almaty by Wisnu Purwanto, on Flickr

Anyway, to make it short; we're stranded in Almaty for 19 hours - and the worst, we arrived in Bangkok without our luggage!. We missed our Air Asia flight – the ticket totally unusable. We bought new ticket for Garuda. Total 41 hours after we left home we landed in Jakarta.

The hardship is not over. My elder daughter missed her flight from London to Jakarta. She did not travel with us since she is boarding school in Plymouth. Her train was late due to heavy rain caused flooding in some area in southern UK. Unfortunately, the next flights was full, but one biz class seat available for the next 2 days flight at extra cost GBP 700 one way, or she had to wait for 4 days. Practically she had no choice.

Part 1 - Nusa Lembongan ..

Jakarta is not the best place for holiday. It’s my home town. Traffic jam every where and every time. Unbelievable, on Monday 17 Dec. we were sitting in the car for 8 hours just to visit 2 locations, first to buy 60mm macro lens, next to get the Nauticam housing for my OMD and then pick-up my daughter from airport in the evening.
Left home at 07:30 am and return home at 23:00 – more than 50% of time we spent on the road.
It was really a relief when on the next morning three of us departed to Bali with Garuda first flight, good breakfast, landed in Bali around 08:30.
The pick-up service from Rocky boat had been waiting for us. Excellent, at10:00 we already on the Rocky boat to Lembongan and on 12:00 we had good lunch at Scooby Doo restaurant and bar, with beautiful view of Lembongan bay beach and the “colorful” white sands where is mostly covered with seaweeds.

Nusa_Lembongan.jpg


The Scooby Doo restaurant and bar operate 3 bungalows - our home for the next 4 days in Lembongan. Nothing special other than nice location, directly facing to Lembongan bay. The room is spacious, clean, a bit aged and require minor works in the bath room. Anyway, still good value accomodation and I have no hesitate to recommend.

We chose Lembongan Dive Center (LDC) – a small DC located next to the Scooby Doo restaurant. It is very convenience for us having the restaurant and dive center not more than 20 m from our room. Internet connection is available most of the time and reasonably good.
The main purpose of our trip to Nusa Lembongan is to get Jr. AOW for my younger daughter and as warming up to anticipate Raja Ampat strong current after more than 6 months completely dry; we never touch sea water.
Being small operation, LDC can accommodate all our request. My daughter get private instructor, one dive guide for two of us and we dive at same locations as for my daughter training.
We did 8 dives for 3 days; 2 times at Manta point and Crystal bay respectively, plus mangrove point, Pura Ped, SD and night dive at Lembongan bay. close to Bali Hai pontoon. Water was considered warm for nusa Penida, 21 - 27 C.

Two mantas welcome us on the first dive at manta point, visibility not good. Much better on second dive two days later, but only saw one manta at 25 meter depth.
Manta_17.jpg


[video=vimeo;58984791]https://vimeo.com/58984791[/video]

Luck was not with us, as expected, no mola - not big deal, I enjoyed the glass fishes attraction in one of boomies in Crystal bay.

Glassfish_3.jpg


and this is my daughter favourite object - she love macro.

Melatifish_2.jpg


The night dive is not worth, very few critters - I can't remember if any other interesting critters other than a puffer fish, hermit crab and thousands small worms attracted by my 800 lumen focus light. Practically, I can't take any pics at this condition
Focuslight.jpg


Last day in Lembongan, my daughter got fever. We went to the doctor, 5 minute walk from the resort. He thought just because of climate change from very dry, subzero arctic encvironment to hot and very humid tropical island. Later we know she was infected by Rubella virus (German Measles).
So we continue our trip to Raja Ampat.

For more Nusa Lembongan pics ... Bali 2012 - - ScubaBoard Gallery

---------- Post added February 9th, 2013 at 04:57 AM ----------

Part 2 - Raja Ampat

We use Garuda to Makasar, ETA 21:05 and then Sriwijaya air to Sorong ETD 04:30. Although the Makasar airport is modern and clean, we stayed at airport day room inside the departure terminal - to provide my younger daughter more time to rest. She did not getting well, in fact, she felt severe headache and rash appeared on her face. I was worry she had dengue fever.

Before boarding, we met my older daughter in the airport, she use the same Sriwijaya flight from Jakarta to Sorong.
I can understand why people say Sorong airport is So wrong - no very welcoming airport.
Having somebody organize your transfer is highly recommended.

To make story short, Papua diving did a good job. The transfer from airport to the port and another 2 hours transfer by boat to Kri Eco resort worked smoothly.

Kri Eco Resort is located on the eastern tip of Kri island, the easternmost extension of Mansour Island. The accommodation is quite basic, wooden hut with wall and roof made from palm leaves. Seem delicate, but surprisingly, it is strong enough to survive with only minor damage from heavy rainstorm on the 3rd night of our stay.
The cozy resort ambience, perfect location, perched on the edge of a lagoon close to the best dive sites in the world; excellent services make most people do not realize they stay in the humble huts (called eco resort) and pay for four stars accommodation.

Kri_21.jpg


The shared bath rooms located 30 - 50m from bungallow are mandi style with western toilet, clean and enough toilet paper. My wife does not like night diving, but she appreciate how useful my dive torch to go to the bath room during rainy night.
Anyway they do not complain - in fact, they love to come back again and stay longer.

So, it is nice dive resort but not for everyone particularly if you are not diver.


During our stay, the dive center operated at their maximum capacity – 24 divers in four boats, with two dive guide for each boat. Well organized diving, although not to the accuracy of Swiss watch.
The first day dives is check dive. I can’t recall the name of the 2 dive sites on the first day of diving – nothing special, neither impressive, not what people want to see after traveling half of the globe ( yes, we are less on the distance, but not for the traveling time). Probably because my head did not really into the diving, my younger daughter still sick. Only three of us dived on the first dive – whereafter my wife and my daughter went to doctor in Wasai, 40 minutes by boat from Kri. That was when we know that she was infected by rubella. According to the young doctor, no special treatment for German measles – he gave her Paracetamol, anti histamine, Vitamins and talcum powder – all including consultancy cost us USD 6.

The real diving for us start on the second day – the good thing my younger daughter condition improved a lot – I can not say she is fully recovered, but when she start annoying her sister, I know she is okay.

In one week we did 15 boat day dives (Chicken bay, Cape Kri, Sardine Reef, Blue Magic, Mike Point, Otdima, Manta Sandy, Arborek, Sleeping Barracuda, Freewenbonda) plus 2 night dives (Yenbuba jetty and house reef) and 1 Saturday morning house reef dive. Please note, no boat diving on Saturday, but they provide lot of tanks on the jetty. No dive guide. Current can be strong, so you need to check the tide table on the DC and of course you can see how the fish school swimming under the jetty – that’s a good current meter.
We’re not very lucky on Manta sandy – poor visibility and “only” 9 mantas welcome us. Other group before us had 17 mantas in better visibility.
Don’t know who should I complain!

Most of dive sites around Kri have strong or very strong and shifting currents. They say – no current no fish – but strong current does not always mean lot of attractions. That’s the reason our dive guide always jump to the water first (without gear) to check and ensure we'll get what we want.
It is paramount to have experienced and knowledgeable dive guide who can lead you to reach the sweet spot without too much kicking. Wrong timing or incorrect drop point may result you to fin against ripping current and or miss the attraction.

All above are our favorite dive sites – but if I have to choose the best one – then I opt the chicken bay. Initial plan was to dive the chicken reef. Once we arrived at site, our guide jumped to the water and shake his head when he surface. Then we move to another nearby site, chicken bay.
In my over 500 dives, I have never seen so many fishes, practically fill every space of water column. This site has all diver want to see; profusion of rainbow runners, yellowtail fusiliers, snapper, sweetlips, batfish, chevron barracuda, great barracuda, trevally, jackfish, massive bumphead school, napoleon, white tip, grey reef, and tinny pontohi as well. But does not mean easy to take good pictures, at least for us, underwater photography at that situation was quite challenging, not only because the strong current, but in most cases we have to shoot against the sun in poor visibility.
I try to make a video, sorry - terrible; don't know what happened; not as good as the original file.

[video=vimeo;59256752]http://vimeo.com/59256752[/video]

And here few pics taken by my daughters.

May_Seascape_2.jpg


May_Seascape.jpg


Mel_Seascape.jpg
Mayang_wobegong.jpg


The Jetty at yenbuba village is one of the exception, this muck dive site has no current and shallow. Ideal site for night dives. The highlight was 2 wobegong – one is quite big at 1.5m depth, a couple of flathead crocodile fish, bobtail, gosh pipefish.


Mayang_wobegong_3.jpg


We love the house reef – as well, either night dives or Saturday morning all very rewarding. Blue ring octopus and epaulette shark is the highlight of night diving at the house reef.

1_walking_shark.jpg


And all these pics below are taken by my daughter on Saturday morning house reef dive.

Kri_Jetty_2.jpg


Fish_Kri_Jetty.jpg


For more underwater pics Kri Raja Ampat - - ScubaBoard Gallery
and if you want to know more about Kri, here more pics Kri Eco Topsite - - ScubaBoard Gallery
 
Thanks for posting this. I found it very interesting, and the problems like this we encounter make the entire event more memorable.
 
Many thanks for your great trip report Wisnu.
The R4 video shows indeed impressive density of fishlife. I have to go there, now. Though am I wrong to say R4 looks less colorful than Nusa Penida for instance (comparing with videos), and it's more of a fish place than a coral place.

Btw, the last photo of the jackfish school below the pier showing on the surface is excellent!!

Air Astana which is claimed as the best airline in east Europe.
Is it a line from Borat movie? hahaha... Kazakhstan is not in Europe.
I think Air Astana is rather competing with PIA or Air India in central Asia region, all of which are not very spectacular contenders.
 
That was some very nice video you took. Can I ask what camera you are using?
 
Looks great thanks for the report. On the bucket list!
 
Thanks wisnu great report, though your journey seems like long drama movie compared to mine! hope your daughter is doing well now. The tropics is not nice place to be sick. I also enjoyed the photos esp the wobbegong with coral backdrop. It sounds like you had good diving in the end and yes something that cape kri has for my memories are the schooling fish in numbers. Despite low vis its still memorable. Luko there are areas of great coral density and diversity with lots of colours, citrus ridge in north and boo windows in misool come to mind. Neptune fansea near wayil batan is a channel with hundreds of large gorgonians.
 
Luko there are areas of great coral density and diversity with lots of colours, citrus ridge in north and boo windows in misool come to mind.
I was more focusing on the northern part of R4, Dampier strait area, since there is approx 0% chance I would go to Misool. It seems the corally parts are more in the southern area, right?
 
North still has good coral sites, like I said citrus ridge had a lot of colour, from memory also cape kri, blue magic or sardine had some fine corals. Just note that there are more sloping sandyreefs and bommies rather than deep vertical walls. So perhaps on some sites it wasnt wall to wall of corals, like komodo or lembongan. In general north for hard corals, south softer corals.
 
Thanks for posting this. I found it very interesting, and the problems like this we encounter make the entire event more memorable.

Indeed, this is the most memorable trip so far.
But I prefer not to have the same or worst experience to get more memorable trip on my next trip:D

---------- Post added February 10th, 2013 at 11:51 AM ----------

Many thanks for your great trip report Wisnu.
The R4 video shows indeed impressive density of fishlife. I have to go there, now. Though am I wrong to say R4 looks less colorful than Nusa Penida for instance (comparing with videos), and it's more of a fish place than a coral place.

Btw, the last photo of the jackfish school below the pier showing on the surface is excellent!!

Luko,
Thnaks, photo of jackfish taken by my younger daughter, her credit.

As other said, there's very good and healthy coral reef formation at dive sites around kri - but our attention more on fish, fish and fish. More over, we dived not deeper than 24 m, we posibly missed the best.

hahaha... Kazakhstan is not in Europe.

hey,
15% KZ area is still part of Europe continent - at least what they claimed ...
and don't make me sad by refuse the fact that we live in "Europe", 5 minutes walking to Asia.

---------- Post added February 10th, 2013 at 11:54 AM ----------

That was some very nice video you took. Can I ask what camera you are using?

Thanks,
We use Olympus OMD, EPL-1 and Gopro HD2 - but on that video mostly taken with OMD.




---------- Post added February 10th, 2013 at 12:03 PM ----------

Thx for the great review Wisnu. Hope the way out went better than the way in!
Luko R4 has got great coral reefs. Misool area and places around Kri are amazing

Thanks Cedric,
we have no problem on the return flight

we met with other Kri guess who dived misool a week before, and they like Kri area more than misool.

---------- Post added February 10th, 2013 at 12:04 PM ----------

Looks great thanks for the report. On the bucket list!

thanks
yes, it's a must destination;

---------- Post added February 10th, 2013 at 12:06 PM ----------

Thanks wisnu great report, though your journey seems like long drama movie compared to mine! hope your daughter is doing well now. The tropics is not nice place to be sick. I also enjoyed the photos esp the wobbegong with coral backdrop. It sounds like you had good diving in the end and yes something that cape kri has for my memories are the schooling fish in numbers. Despite low vis its still memorable. Luko there are areas of great coral density and diversity with lots of colours, citrus ridge in north and boo windows in misool come to mind. Neptune fansea near wayil batan is a channel with hundreds of large gorgonians.

Gavin Thanks,
She is fine; fully recovered on the third day. she only missed the first day dives.
For us, the fish profusion and variation in R4 is spectacular despite the low viz.
We saw sharks almost on every dives - in fact, no need to get wet just see around 2 dozens small balck tips resident of the house reef.
Other than black tip, white tip and grey, we saw 6 wobegong and 2 epaulette sharks.

---------- Post added February 10th, 2013 at 12:40 PM ----------

Part 3 – Lembeh

One week was too short for Raja Ampat, even on land based resort, we have not visited all the best sites around the area.
Dec. 30 we returned to Jakarta – no problem with our flight although I notice Batavia canceled four flights from/to Sorong on that day.
I will recommend sriwijaya air - they have 2 daily flight from Jakarta to sorong, stop-over in Makasar. So, the posisibiliy of cancel will be less.

Actually, I had no plan to visit Lembeh.
I have a week before we have to fly back. My younger daughter would be busy with her tennis session; her sister had to work hard for final exam and preparation to university this summer. And me ? a week in Jakarta is too long doing nothing.
So, I e-mail several dive centers in Lembeh and Ambon. Either late response or no space available for last minute booking, finally I ended with Bastianos Lembeh.
This was the first time I traveled alone without my family. The good thing, the camera would be with me all the time :wink:

Bastianos location is one of the best place on lembeh island, clean, beautiful garden, nice pool, reasonaly priced, food not too bad, the staff is very friendly, they also have Opo - the best dive guide in Lembeh, but I don't know feel something missing from their operation. I have no complain but will not opt them as the best dive resort. Their occupation level seem not good as other Lembeh resort as well. Only 6 divers including my self in the resort at that time while other resorts such as Two fish, Dive Lodge and NAD were fully booked.

I had 8 dives within two days in Lembeh. On the last 2 dives, the legend Opo is my private guide. Two dives with him is far more productive than my 6 dives before with a young guide (not bad dive guide, but in Lembeh you need more than just a guide - you need critters hunter).
If you dive with bastianos, ask Opo as your guide. Very interesting person, lot of fun, he has new wife and still using the same old Sea quest BCD he use for more than 10,000 dives.
If you dive lembeh and you see a small guy using ugly BCD with microbubble leak everywhere - he must be opo.

No need to say much about Lembeh - here few pics

Lembeh Jan 2013
 
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