Reg servicing and SPG

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I would not say it is OK.
When I said it was ok I was thinking more from a 'water in the hoses' point of view. I realise now this area is not sealed to the elements.

I took the regs in and talked to the tech about it. He told me they do not replace the spools usually, only the o rings. He also assured me they had done this on both sets of regs I took to him. I asked him about packing the fitting with lube and was told they never do this. (What type of lube do you guys use? This is something I think I will just do myself from now on)

If the o rings have been replaced on the spool, is it necessary to replace the spool itself if it's showing signs of wear? In places the plating has been worn off exposing the brass.

He did also hook up the regs and check the IP. One of them has a leak due to damage to the seat caused by improper disassembly when they serviced them. He's going to replace the seat and put the required kit through it for free. It became evident that the problems arose because his apprentice was the one that worked on them the first time, and it doesn't sound like he was supervised too closely...

I have learned a lot here, ask questions until your happy with the answers, and make sure the guy you're paying to work on your gear is the guy who will actually be doing the job. I'll also be putting lube in the fitting and modifying the rubber boot on the SPG to allow better rinsing.

Thanks heaps for you responses, especially herman, awap and bubble. It's a huge help.
 
Spool o rings are a pain to replace.....if I have a supply of "loaded" spools I'm looking for any excuse to use a fresh spool.
If spools break it's invariably at their thinnest part, the 0 ring groove.

Dow Corning 111 or Christo Lube for high O2.
 
At around $3 for spool vs around $3 for 5 O rings, just replace the whole spool, carry spares etc much easier than trying to replace the O ring. For me it's a consumable item, I replace every year.
 
Also, keep in mind that air spools are not universal. There are at least 3-4 different types (maybe more).


Carry the specific ones you need, the location may not have them.
 
So I went to pick up my regs again today following the second rebuild to repair a creeping IP. First thing I notice was that the SPG now has a small amount of condensation on the glass. Probably about 1/2 inch round. The experienced tech wasn't there and the apprentice assured me it was just cause they had been sitting out in the sun after being leak tested in a tub of water.

On my way home from the shop I grab the SPG to look at it and realise the fitting is completely loose. Not even finger tight.

I have read elsewhere on the net that water in the hose can not present as condensation on the glass. I also can't see how any water could enter the hose if the system was pressurised while it was submerged.

Is this something that can be written off as coincidence? Despite the fact that I have never seen condensation on my gauge before? Or is there something they could have done wrong to cause water in the gauge?

I have had nothing but excuses from this place and have totally lost faith in their work, but I don't know enough about this stuff to know when they are making up stories. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
So I went to pick up my regs again today following the second rebuild to repair a creeping IP. First thing I notice was that the SPG now has a small amount of condensation on the glass. Probably about 1/2 inch round. The experienced tech wasn't there and the apprentice assured me it was just cause they had been sitting out in the sun after being leak tested in a tub of water.

On my way home from the shop I grab the SPG to look at it and realise the fitting is completely loose. Not even finger tight.

I have read elsewhere on the net that water in the hose can not present as condensation on the glass. I also can't see how any water could enter the hose if the system was pressurised while it was submerged.

Is this something that can be written off as coincidence? Despite the fact that I have never seen condensation on my gauge before? Or is there something they could have done wrong to cause water in the gauge?

I have had nothing but excuses from this place and have totally lost faith in their work, but I don't know enough about this stuff to know when they are making up stories. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hard to tell what they did and didn't do. Best to talk directly to the tech. It is unlikely they caused the condensation in the SPG; but that is not a good sign.

BTW, sitting out in the sun causes evaporation, not condensation.

EDIT: I guess it is possible to compromise the case seal on an SPG by trying to undo the connection closest to the gauge, especially one with a plastic case.
 
I replace the spool orings on every reg I get in for service or even just an annual inspection. Only use christo or tribolube and do not skimp on it. I have saved at least 3 diver's days by having extra orings and a small tin of lube. The shop they used also did not lube the rings and they were fuzzy as hell. I buy them by the hundred and toss in a spare set prelubed with every reg I service and every new one I sell with an spg. The oring on the hose side is dynamic. The fitting turns so that the spg will swivel. It swivels around the spool. Not lubing the spool causes friction. I would never take a reg back there. Changing them is easy if you get the bullet set up from scubatools. One side holds the spool while a tapered bullet slips over the other end and allows you to slide the new orings right on. If an spg won't swivel it usually because it's all corroded up in there. I havs had to replace gauges because spool.was welded into the guage with corrosion.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
 
I agree awap but corrosion is going to happen during the dive as well, not as much as it setting but it happens and tends to build up. The best solution I can come up with is to heavily lube the area to act as a barrier to the water.

Can I ask you if silicone grease is OK here if you use nitrox <40% ? I have Tribolube and silicone grease at home, which is better?
 
Because I also do O2 cleaning I made a decision to only use Christo or Tribolube. Got rid of my silicone grease to avoid any chance of contamination. I like the tribo or christo because not only are they O2 clean but you can actually see it. White as compared to clear. If I'm using nitrox even less than 40% I personally want only O2 compatible lube. Overkill? Maybe. But it only takes one person to screw up a fill and put O2 in a bottle and forget to add enough or any air. It has happened. People have gotten tanks that were not analyzed properly. Decided to check and found levels way above what they expected. Not worth the risk. Others may disagree but it's my policy and after what happened to Texas Torpedo, one I'm not going to change. BTW In most nitrox courses there is a recommendation to use O2 compatible products on anything that might come in contact with elevated levels of oxygen. Most reg mfg's use O2 compatible components even in regs that are marked only for use to 40%.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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