Steel tanks, Yoke valves, DIN valves and the lot?

[MechDiver]

Answer: "No - but I have more to say...."

This is the classic ScubaBoard thread... the "show up and throw up" response. To see that this sickness has spread to the hinter regions of the board (the TANK ROOM of all places) is very discouraging. You used to have to hang out in the Tek or DIR sections (or exposure suits) to get pummelled like this...

We've lost Raven forever after this one.

K

So go read a thread somewhere else. I haven't heard Raven complaining.

 

[CelticRavenVA]

We've lost Raven forever after this one.

I have a little thicker skin then that... LOL

Raven, you will need to take a Sherwood 5000 valve, new style, to a machine shop and machine the existing thread and O ring channel to 7/8-14 UNF. You should furnish an HP DIN valve to the machinist to copy. Also, install a 3500 psi WP disc into the valve. Before machining you must disassemble the valve, remove all loose parts. Don't worry about the security of the yoke system. It will easily handle 3500 psi. Comments to the contrary are silly.

While I may not be the worlds greatest gear tech, and I thank everyone for clearing up the reasons why you have din on HP tanks. Ummmm this just sounds dangerous. Converting regs to DIN would be a much better option. This kinda strikes me as the fly by the seat of your pants route.

Whoa. Are you exagerating a bit or are you looking at the characteristics of some weird tanks? 10 to 14lbs Pos.?

Yeah, maybe.... someone had mentioned to me at one point that the AL120's can go that far depending on the mfg. No clue if it is true. When I was typing this I was getting really frustrated from trying to learn the dynamics of tanks and the models and such. As people referenced them for me in the threads I was researching what they were talking about. Making a decision to buy tanks is a big step if you are doing enough local diving to justify them, (Which I am) and I am looking a tank larger then 80cf for the local wreck dives.

The reason this is tough for me is my air consumption rate. We will just say it is pretty high but on average for most rec divers. Some dives it is better then others, but I have worked every dive to pay attention to it and it is getting better.

Still the fact remains, What to do with tanks. I have gotten alot of info off the thread and have given my brain something to chew on.

Would anyone else care for popcorn?

Actually yes, but alas I am trying to shed about 5 lbs.

Signed,

The Cheeky Moron.

ROFL Boog somehow you always get a laugh out of me.

 

[rjchandler]

Raven- the bouyancy shift depends on the volume of air - it results from the loss of weight of the air you use up - so a 120 could have a change in the range you remember seeing.

Focusing on the amount of air you really need for the dives you do is the way to approach your problem. A 120 could end up being way more than is necessary for those dives. My wife has some very colorful things to say about the 120 that sits in my garage a lot.

 

[CelticRavenVA]

ROFL, Joe is that from diving withit? or when she knocked it over on her foot one day?

Raven- the bouyancy shift depends on the volume of air - it results from the loss of weight of the air you use up - so a 120 could have a change in the range you remember seeing.

Focusing on the amount of air you really need for the dives you do is the way to approach your problem. A 120 could end up being way more than is necessary for those dives. My wife has some very colorful things to say about the 120 that sits in my garage a lot.

 

[Scuba_Vixen]

Raven, you will need to take a Sherwood 5000 valve, new style, to a machine shop and machine the existing thread and O ring channel to 7/8-14 UNF. You should furnish an HP DIN valve to the machinist to copy. Also, install a 3500 psi WP disc into the valve. Before machining you must disassemble the valve, remove all loose parts. Don't worry about the security of the yoke system. It will easily handle 3500 psi. Comments to the contrary are silly.
Pesky

But who the hell would pass the thing for a VIP, Not me.

 

[Scuba_Vixen]

Whoaaaaaa,

This turned into quite a thread.
As far as the Al 100's, they are just about dead neutral when near empty, only slightly positive when Very empty. You dive them as though they were al 80's, the difference isn't enough to be concerned with. I can't imagine where you got that 15# positive number.

The best reason to forgo them is that they are big heavy suckers out of the water, and they get the 100cf rating at 3300#. If they only get filled to 3000#, then you get 90cf of gas. Only 13% more gas (over an al80) for a bigger, heavier, more pain in the butt, tank, just isn't a practical trade off.

And as a matter of note, There are no al120's, at least not in the states. It takes about 13cft of air to weigh 1# (that's 6# swing for 80cft .. about 10# swing for 120cf)

Darlene