Trip Report (Long) Roatan / La Ceiba / Utila

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Sloeber

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
595
Reaction score
689
Location
San Miguel de Cozumel, Q.Roo, Mexico
# of dives
5000 - ∞
I left behind the snow of Illinois for the tropics of Roatan and Utila.

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Brrrr.

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Ahhh, much better.

My father and I stayed one week at Fantasy Island Beach Resort. We booked our package through an offer I located on ScubaBoard which ultimately was booked through PADI Travel if I'm not mistaken. It was the first time I've done something like that and overall it worked out very well. I was able to dive with some very experienced divers and a fairly tightly knit group versus the traditional cattle boat with 6 or 8 pairs of people who didn't know each other and have varying skill levels.

Travel to FIBR went smoothly. We flew out of Chicago, through Houston, and onto Roatan. I had never been in Texas before but without even leaving the airport it was obvious we weren't in the Midwest any longer. Flights were smooth sailing.

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Even though FIBR was suppose to have somebody at the airport to get us they never showed. I waited 20 minutes after collecting my bags for the FIBR van but finally succumbed to the persistent cab drivers. Halfway to FIBR their van passed us headed to the airport. Upon getting to FIBR we learn they lost our reservation. I present my travel vouchers and they magically find our reservation. They didn't, however, have a room for us. We get stuck in a spare room unfit for guests.

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The broken window was only half the story. We were supposed to also have a beachfront room with ocean view. The only window, the broken one pictured above, yielded this view.

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Cold water showers, trampolines for mattresses, etc. We complain to the management and we are told they can't help us. We make mention of this to our tour group leader and they offer him a new room immediately. Great. Only problem is our new room is right next door to our old room (read: same view, beds, etc) and this one doesn't have any electricity. I'm not even joking. I'm not talking one bad light bulb, or an outlet that doesn't work. The entire room was void of electrical power. We complain again and finally the following day we get moved into a room suitable for habitation. Our ocean view is exactly that.

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It should be noted until we got moved to this final room we did not have a safe deposit box available to us. All our cash and valuables were left in our room. Now is a good time to note our rooms also didn't lock. Well, they did lock I guess, but the door could be opened regardless because there was no latch for the lock to catch.

Finally in the new room, the room itself was clean and open, but oddly nothing fit. Doors didn't close on closets, bathrooms, or patios. Is this because of the earthquake? In either case the maid service did a nice job keeping our room clean and towels fresh. The A/C worked well but was noisy so the breeze off the ocean was preferred most evenings. There was no screen door on the patio, however, so you slept with insect repellent on. The showers had hot water roughly half the time. The last evening we stayed the resort lost water throughout the resort. We left at noon the following day and water had not yet been restored. I'm not referring to hot water, I'm referring to ANY water. We couldn't even flush toilets.

The food at the resort is borderline awful. It is college cafeteria quality at best, but with no selection. Breakfast was ok purely because they had an omelets station that I utilized each morning. Without that I would have been really unhappy. They did have fresh fruit available so that is a bonus for some people. Juices are made from powdered mix. They tasted fine, possibly a little too sweet, I was just disappointed they weren't freshly squeezed as is popular on the islands. Lunch and dinner had very little variation. A pasta of some sort with choice of 2 sauces, a type of broth they called soup, either chicken or pork on the griddle, a fish or Spanish casserole and either fish filet or chicken legs, plus refried beans. I don't eat salads but there was a salad bar present. You certainly will not go hungry during your stay unless you evoke your own hunger strike, but just getting off the resort twice for dinner will go a long way.

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The resort grounds themselves were well kept for the most part. The beaches were well kept, empty beer bottles scattered from the night before were picked up each morning, etc. (Side rant: I don't know why but it seemed as if the guests at FIBR were the biggest slobs I've ever seen. It's as if they were not capable of tossing a beer bottle into the garbage or bringing their glassware back to the bar) Anyway I was pleased by the way the resort stayed on top of the messy clients. The pool was closed for a portion of our stay. I'm not sure why as we didn't use it I just happened to see it taped off with yellow caution tape for several days.

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The resort had a large selection of animals present. Most were friendly.

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We did our diving with Fantasy Island for the week. I've dove with Scuba Club in Cozumel, Plaza Resort in Bonaire, UDC in Utila, BIBR in Roatan, and various other outfits in the Keys, etc. FIBR is second to none of them as far as scuba is concerned. Darry was our DiveMaster

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He did an excellent job on pre-dive briefings, allowing us to dive our own profile, and finding us critters. He has 9 years experience on those reefs and it showed. Pre-dive he would tell us what he was going to show us. Yellow seahorse, then toadfish, then pipefish, green moray, huge lobster, then a brown seahorse... etc. When we went down he would take us directly to everything he just named. Not only did he tell us what we were going to see he told us the order in which we would see it. Truly amazing work Darry. Pedro was our Captain and a fine Captain he was. On drift dives he was always there to pick you up in short order, he assisted with getting you in the boat, and he always had fresh fruit chopped upon our return to the boat. The fresh pineapple minutes after climbing onboard was a welcome return and it completely spoiled me. Pedro and Darry are the finest crew I have ever had the pleasure of diving under.

If I had to find complaint somewhere it would be on the shore diving. The location is excellent having the Prince Albert wreck and Newman’s Wall so close. The only complaint I could make is it was almost a hassle to shore dive. In comparisons to places like Scuba Club or Plaza Resort, the shore diving at FIBR took a fair amount of effort and time. Don't get me wrong I'm being nitpicky here because it is excellent shore diving and I'm thankful the option is even there, but I would like FIBR to find a way of streamlining the process to make it easier.

You can find a full database of scuba images at this link or you can view most of them on the ScubaBoard thread I started right here l.

Overall I will return to FIBR. The price is very hard to beat for a scuba diver that is going on a dive vacation. I will factor costs of dining out for dinner multiple times during the week in the costs on my return, however. I will also be better prepared for the hassles associated with FIBR (like getting a quality room, lack of hot water, etc). FIBR provides us with great diving at a rather inexpensive cost, but they make up savings around the rest of the resort where they can.

We took an afternoon off of diving to visit the East End of Roatan. This was an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. We took a taxi from FIBR to the dock for Hole in the Wall bar/restaurant, where we boarded a small dinghy and motored across the bay to the bar. It was appropriately named.

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After eating a very tasty blue cheese burger and grilled lobster lunch we went for the mangrove swamp tour.

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It was a great way to spend a few hours but I'd recommend getting a taxi driver that speaks English. If ours did we would have requested a longer tour but since ours didn't we were stuck with our original plans.
 
After a week in Roatan it was time to move onto La Ceiba for some whitewater rafting. We took the ferry over to La Ceiba and met up with our tour guides form Omega Tours in the parking lot.

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I had requested an idea of something "different" to do for a few days in Central America via the ScubaBoard crowd and this was the winner. I forget who mentioned this as an idea but I want to thank them repeatedly. This was, in a word, AWESOME. Omega Tours is a first class operation stuck in a third world country. Since this is not scuba related I won't spend much time on this. However, for those of you that are interested I have a very detailed trip report on La Ceiba located on my website. Please feel free to ask any questions that you may have. I will post a few pictures, however.

Our Cabana overlooking the Pico Bonito National Park

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I'm still laying in bed as I captured this photo

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Look closely at this photo. It shows myself, my father, our tour guide Al, our raft and 3 oars all underwater. If you look close you can see only 2 oars, but the rest of that list is there somewhere I promise!

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I would say I will definitely return to Omega Lodge and Tours every time I'm in Central America. It's that good that it deserves a side adventure for 2 or 3 days every time I'm there.

On Utila I was staying with Mango Inn and diving with Utila Dive Center. This was my second go-around with both businesses. Previously I had stayed in a cabin at Mango Inn, but this time I elected to stay in a basic hotel room. The room was very cramped and aging. The wood in the shower area was rotten, nails rusted over, etc., but for the most part it remained clean and secure. I was not happy with the service at the hotel, however. The internet for the facility wasn't working and the only answer I was getting was "we called the service guy." I guess he was busy elsewhere because he didn't show for 3 days and I left Mango Inn before internet was restored. When we checked into our room the water jug provided to the room was empty. We requested a full jug immediately upon checking in, again the following morning, again the following evening, and again the following morning. Each time we got the same answer "I called and ordered it for you already." The water jug was finally replaced on my day of check-out. To be fair all my dealings at Mango Inn was with a singular person. She just had a bad attitude so I decided to take my money elsewhere. This will be the last time I stay at Mango Inn. The cottage was nice but the hotel rooms were pricey for what was offered.

I moved over to Bayview Hotel and was very pleased. For less than half the cost I had a larger, cleaner room that was right on the water.

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Ironically enough their internet was also unavailable for the duration of my trip, but it was available at various locations around the island so I don't know what was up with that. The hotel had a locking gate at night and I was able to pull my golf cart inside the gate for evening sage-keeping. Stairs were provided to climb into the ocean and snorkel. A seahorse was found on their pier. When I return to Utila I will enquire with Bayview for an extended stay option.

On one day I rented a golf cart and drove all over the island including the backside beaches and Pumpkin Hill. I'd recommend you also do this but I'd also recommend you rent an ATV for this. The golf cart made it with minimal pushing from me, but thankfully it was a rental if you know what I mean. There is no better way to see Utila than standing on top of Pumpkin Hill.

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Like I said, I did my diving with Utila Dive Center. In stark contrast to FIBR, UDC clients were a very young crowd mostly all taking class work as opposed to the resort style guests of FIBR. As such the diving was rather "bare bones" if you will. The fresh water on the boat for my camera was a water jug that didn't even fit my camera. No snacks were provided (oh how I miss you freshly chopped pineapple from Pedro!) and you were not permitted to dive your own profile. Everyone went down as a group and came up as a group. Seeing as how they were mostly new students bottom times were at the 30-40 minute mark. I started making sure I was first one off the boat and last one on the boat, but that only helps so much. Eventually the Instructor recognized my dissatisfaction and ability and he allowed me to descend before the group and wait for everyone at the bottom. This gave me an extra 10 minutes or so of photo time by the time they emptied the boats and everyone descended. He would say, "don't leave my eye sight" to which I would reply, "can you see me at the bottom?" He'd look overboard and say "yep" even though I knew he couldn't. I won't mention his name in case this violates UDC policy but just wanted to say thanks (you know who you are)! The boats were PACKED with people. The morning boat going out was so full that every single tank holder had an air tank in it plus they were stacking air tanks underneath the benches. I didn't count divers - I was afraid to. The DiveMasters I experienced were newly minted DM's that really had no clue about the reefs of Utila. I'm certain they were well trained at herding groups of divers and finding their way back to the boat, but Darry of FIBR they were not. Eventually I took it upon myself to point out critters I found to the students because the DM's just sat back and observed the group and made no attempt at finding animals. After the dives when I had the chance I spoke with the DM's and explained to them some ideas that might help them be better DM's but most seemed disinterested in my ideas. I tooka specialty course of Deep Diver but the day before I was to do a 130ft dive my computer failed me. I borrowed a reg from UDC for my afternoon dive. My pressure gauge read 3700psi! I highly doubt this was a hot fill but rather an old pressure gauge that isn't reading correctly any longer. This didn't make me comfortable so I left UDC after that dive and went to the Mares shop on the island bought a new computer and pressure gauge. My Deep Diver specialty was a success and I even managed to get my mathematical problem correct in a very short period of time. My Instructor seemed disappointed that I was able to not only complete the exercise but also get the math correct. Ha!

You can see a full database of my Utila underwater photos at this link or check out my ScubaBoard thread at thsi link.

Overall, once again I was very happy with the instruction I received from UDC. The resident staff of 2 CD's and multiple other MSDT's and OWSI makes for a positive learning experience. However, for any fun dives planned on Utila I will make note to find a different dive operator to dive with. That's just not UDC's game at this point. Not that they can't, just that there are better options out there so you can get maximized bottom times, dive your profile, limited other divers, and attention from the operator as a diver rather than a student.
 
Great, and detailed trip report! Can't wait for my trip to begin!!!!:D
 
Thanks for the amazing trip report! Becky and I were at FIBR three weeks ago and pretty much had the same impressions as you. We were lucky to get a decent room right off the bat. I'm not sure how we came to be so fortunate as I have heard several other scenarios like yours. We were on the second floor overlooking the pool which we never used. The pineapple on the boats was the best I have ever had. It just wasn't the same in the dining room however. In my opinion the diving made up for any other issues the resort had, especially when you factor in the price. Sounds like overall you had a great experience.

Brian
 
Great detailed trip report. You went to two of my favorite places: Hole in the Wall and Omega. Silvia and Udo are the best! Wow you had a wild raft trip. I dumped in last time, but not to the extent you did! If you go again, be sure to do the beach/jungle horseback ride. It's awesome that you are adventurous enough to get out beyond the FI gates and visit east Roatan. Not too many of the resort people do that, although yesterday at the Hole 2 divers doing their DM training at Suena Del Mar stopped in for a late lunch. Happy Travels.
 
Just out of curiosity...did your entire group get tired of waiting for the bus and take taxis to the resort?
 
Thanks for taking the time to share with us. We love Omega, too - great experience there in 2006 and will head back some day, I'm sure.
 
Just out of curiosity...did your entire group get tired of waiting for the bus and take taxis to the resort?

Can't say for sure. They arrived on Saturday and my father and I arrived Sunday.

HTH
 
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