Ways to mount a pres. gauge...what do you do?

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For a while I using O-rings and zips, but SW would really shorten the life of the O-rings. The I went to the cave line method, but now I pretty much just use zip-ties.

I consider them breakways. For example, I can easily snap the zip-tie that is on my reg hose and brass clip. Cave line is strong is all hell and you have to cut it. If you get stuck with zip-tie you can just snap it by pulling hard or you can cut it.
 
mer:
Sweet. I'll tape my computer to the other eye and use my buddy for touch contact.

Guess this won't work if I'm not diving with a buddy eh?

Or if he's also built his own HUD... :wink:
 
My BCD has a small quick release clip on the bottom left side below the left pocket. I got bored one night and attached a male quick release clip to the console and clip it on there. It works for me and keeps it from dangeling. That's the important part, right? I can usually see it well enough to get a general idea of readings without unclipping it. If not, or if I want to see more detail then it's easy to unclip.

Joe
 
crawford:
It takes almost an entire roll of duct tape and a beer bottle cap to effectively stop a small leak on a tank, and then you can't really overfill your tanks, have to stay around 2000 psi in my experience. Plus your profile is wack because of the huge wad of tape as you're trying to go through a restriction, etc.

Duct tape should be restricted to use as a jon line (just tape the anchor line and unwind a few feet), harness buckle (but you have to redo the tape every dive), or to cover an extruded O-ring real good.

Disclaimer: All the above is complete stupidity. Please don't try at home. :11:

I find it works much better to flatten the cap so that it's seal can work.....

But seriously, I think a cave line is definitly the best approach. Unless it gets snagged on a shark's tooth, you're going to be able to stop and untangle yourself. Just be sure to NEVER use metal-to-metal connections for this kind of things! And if you ever do need to cut it loose, you can.

An alternative would be to clip it on with a brass clip (not a suicide clip). This is a slight violation of the no metal-to-metal connections rule, but since you can un-clip it you should be fine. This also lets you un-clip it fast when you're disassembling your gear after a dive.
 
teknitroxdiver:
I find it works much better to flatten the cap so that it's seal can work.....

But seriously, I think a cave line is definitly the best approach. Unless it gets snagged on a shark's tooth, you're going to be able to stop and untangle yourself. Just be sure to NEVER use metal-to-metal connections for this kind of things! And if you ever do need to cut it loose, you can.

An alternative would be to clip it on with a brass clip (not a suicide clip). This is a slight violation of the no metal-to-metal connections rule, but since you can un-clip it you should be fine. This also lets you un-clip it fast when you're disassembling your gear after a dive.

If you run the hose underneath your your left side harness and turn the gauge up you can read it by looking down, and it's no longer a snag hazard.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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