YAFS (Yet Another Fill Station)

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Basically, they are pressure-operated valves.

You know how a Haskel works, right? Low pressure on a big piston pushes a small piston, which produces more pressure and less volume (the old gas-law game)

There are made valves used for switching air (and other fluids) under the same concept. They are available in normally "open" (pass when no control pressure) and normally "closed" (closed when no control pressure) versions. These devices are basic hydraulic components and available relatively cheaply, but air-rated ones for high pressure tend to be a bit tougher to find.

In hydraulic systems their basic use is to "lock" a cylinder when a machine is shut down (or it is desired to prevent a loaded arm or positioner from moving - say, while transporting something that has been lifted) to prevent the cylinder from moving. Basically, the idea is that when the control pressure is removed the valve is "locked" closed, and therefore, the cylinder cannot move. You want ones for high pressure air service as "bleed down" valves, not "lock" valves, since you want them OPEN when pressure is not applied to the control port.

The idea here is that you rig it like this:

1. Your lowest pressure drain has a solenoid valve. UPSTREAM from this (before the valve!) is a "T", which provides "drive air" to the pilot valve(s) for the subsequent stages. These are "normally open" valves - no control pressure, they are open. (Pneumatic systems folks think of these as "unloaders" or "bleed down" valves.)

2. The compressor starts. The first stage line pressure comes up, and as it does control pressure is applied to the pilot valves. The close, pressurizing the other stages.

3. OK, now its time to drain. The timer actuates the drain solenoid. This collapses the pressure in the control line at the same time it "blows down" the lowest-pressure drain. The result is that the second (and third, if you have one) drains open, as the control pressure has been relieved. Thus, all drains open at once and the pressure in those separators blows clear the accumulated condensate.

4. The first drain closes (timer again); the pressure builds back up in the control line, and the other stage(s) close.

Very simple. The first drain only has to hold back its pressure; solenoid valves that can handle "lower pressures" are available for $100 or so. You need bubble tight valves, obviously.

The timer can be built from a relatively simple electronic circuit (556 dual astable multivibrator) driving a power relay to trip the solenoid. You want a pretty short "on" time - a couple of seconds every 10 minutes or so - to actuate the drains. You DO need to select the "on" time so that the third stage feed pressure doesn't collapse entirely, because that will "unsync" the third stage piston on a floating-final-stage compressor and lead to knocking and excessive wear during bleed cycles - you only need to actuate the bleed long enough to blow clear any accumulated condensation. Some tuning of the timer will be required.

If you rig the first stage bleed "backwards" as well - so the solenoid valve is continuous duty and "energize to close", you also get an automatic unloader out of this design. When the compressor shuts down the solenoid is de-energized, which collapses the pilot valve control pressure and all the condensate drains open, dumping interstage pressure and unloading the compressor. (An "energize to open" unit will also eventually automatically unload, as eventually the first condensate canister will leak down, but that's a potentially dangerous design since it could happen minutes or even hours after the compressor is shut off without warning, and you do not want to start up into a pressurized accumulator - that's VERY hard on the motor and other parts of the compressor.)

Wired to a magnetic starter and final pressure switch you now have a fully automatic system that can be run unattended to fill a storage bank, and will turn off and unload when the final pressure is reached.

Here's one that LOOKS like it might work to 5,000 PSI (Note that I have NOT studied the specs on this unit carefully; this is just a quick search of some available sources for such things! High pressure gas can be dangerous; don't exceed ratings!)

http://www.doering.com/pdf/1200755.pdf
 
I leave my hyper pure pressurized all the time unless I am transporting it. I have found that you will need to add a valve on the output to prevent a slow discharge of the air. The hyper pure setup above the basic unit that you have has one of these (look at the L-F web site for an image).

Try using quick connects for fittings instead of the yoke valve setup on the hyper pure stack. The first thing I did with mine is get rid of it. (I run up to 4500 psi for one of my banks).

You will need to consider that the micronic filter will need to be replaced on a regular schedule as well.

You really should have a final high pressure shutoff valve. It can save a lot of heartache and dollars for pennies.

The most efficient way to use supply cylinders is continuous blending. Like Uncle Pug I bank 32%. I also bank 30/30 or 21/35 depending on what diving I am doing. I have 2 banks, one at 4500 psi and one at 2800 psi.

The 4500 psi cylinders hold 455 cuft (I have 4) and the 2800 cylinders hold 320 cuft (I have 2). The low pressure bank is for filling/topping with air. It makes a big difference on how many tanks I can fill if I use the LP bank for the main filling and top off with the HP bank. This also works well from a timing stand point. I do the initial LP fill and by the time I get to the HP top off the tanks have cooled and I get a more accurate final fill pressure. Just last weekend I filled 13 72’s to 2500 with the LP bank and one HP bottle while running the compressor (5 cfm) in a couple of hours.

The plumbing is done in series and does not need to be complex. I have seen some convoluted setups in this regard. Some use multiple lines with valves and assorted manifolds in poorly thought out setups.

omar
 
You leave yours pressurized? Hmmm... I had thought about that, but there appears to be some risk in doing so, in that if the unit was to take a hit to the feed stem, that could be bad.

There's a LOT of air in there - from bleeding it down I'd guess that it has an internal "live" volume somewhere approaching a 6 cube cylinder, which at 3000 psi means there's a shiesload of energy in there if something was to let loose.

I guess I could put a line valve on the output between the fill whip and the manifold block. They're not very expensive. It might be fun getting it in there though, given the clearances with the base plate. I'll have to look into that. The input is already protected with a check valve against being "blown open".

The reason for not doing it immediately for me is the flow restrictor on the output which would prohibit an instantaneous release of pressure even if the fill hose was to blow out. As such the release of pressure in such a situation, while loud, shouldn't be dangerous.

Go to QDs eh? MCMaster-Carr for those? I could easily refit the whip from the compressor with them, put the fill yoke on one, put another on the inlet of the HF stack, then be able to "jack directly" to the HF stack, or put the fill yoke back on if I want to fill Grade-E. That'd work. The only problem there I can see is that I'd want one with a valve on the hose side if I was going to do that with the compressor to HF stack, because otherwise accidentally disconnecting the whip while pressurized could be BAD (there is no flow restriction from the Grade-E canister to the whip; the entire canister could thus discharge "full bore" if that was to happen - not good.) Also, my bleed on that whip is integrated into the fill yoke, which means that I can't put the bleed on the hose side - bad too, as now I need another bleeder. The line valves are "sexed wrong" for flow direction too, so now I need nipples on the HF stack, which makes the whole thing stick out more than I'd like.

The final fill assembly HAS a shut-off. Its integrated into the bleed/fill handle. When the handle is in the "bleed" position, the tank connection is bled and the fill connection is shut off. When in the other position the bleed is closed and the fill connection is open. Its clever and, unless it starts leaking, looks to be one of the few "better mousetraps" that I've run across when it comes to such things.

Not sure this is all worth it, if I'm not going to leave the HF stack pressurized or fill banks. I agree that the yoke connection to the HF stack won't do for bank fills; I'll have to consider the QDs anyway...
 
The shut off valve I meant was a high pressure shut off switch to turn off the compressor. I didn't read my comment before posting.

The quick disconnects I use I got from Compressed Air Specialties after the ones from McMaster-Carr did not work (leaked).

There is no accidently disconnecting one of these if it is pressurized. That is why I recommend a shutoff valve on the output side of the stack because the check valve/priority valve leaks very slowly and some pressure will build up on the back side of the QC making it hard to connect or disconnect as the case may be.

omar
 
That will require a rework of the electrical box, as I do not have a magnetic starter on this compressor.

If I go to auto drains and such, then it will get added, because its all part of the same deal. In terms of filling a bank, all of that is a must-have.

McMaster-Carr's QDs leaked on you eh? Well, I guess they are sold for hydraulic applications, so I should not be surprised, as they don't claim "bubble tight" performance.

I would still need an inline bleed before the fill whip on the compressor to the HF stack if I went this way, since the bleed is in the "wrong" place (on the fill adapter, and not on the hose) otherwise, and with the priority valve on the Alkin filter stack there would be no way to depressurize the hose if it was QD'd to the HF.

I also have a potential issue with leaving things pressurized around here as I have a kid and she might play with it, which could be bad. As it stands I unplug the compressor and lock off the power feed to the socket, and since its 220V there's only one place it will plug in - which has no power to it. I have to be anally safe about such things unless I'm attending the unit at the time right now for that reason.
 
Check the previous message I posted - it had a reference to one.

You'd need to have a boss made up to mount it in - look at the diagram provided for how it mounts (O-ring seal, NOT NPT)
 
I don't remember where but I think I poste a source for the dump valves that are on my compressor. Last time I had to buy one it was $100 (was in a hurry and didn't have time to shop) but I ended up with the original reciept so I know where he gets them and what they cost. BTW he payed $50. I haven't checked to see if they will sell direct though. My compressor came with all this stuf so I haven't had to find sources for the stuf that hasn't broke. The solonoid valve for the auto dump is one of those. I would go nuts if I had to stang there and open drain valves every 15 min.

the latest thing to go was the HP shut off. I'll let you know what that costs when I get one.
 
No auto drain on mine...

When I am running it I usually am working on something else and just check on it every 20-30 minutes. When I check it I drain the second and third stages. I have a very good idea on the fill rate and how it runs so I am not too worried about it. If I run across one on ebay I will get it. Compressed Air sells one for around $1100 if I remember correctly.

omar
 
if you can find a source for HP solenoid valves for $100 you'd be considered a "God" by many.

The best number I've seen on solenoid valves for HP (5,000 psi service) use is right around $500! Thus, the suggestion to use a pilot valve arrangement instead.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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