Diving Malpelo aboard the Yemaya II

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

highdesert

ScubaBoard Supporter
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
2,271
Reaction score
503
Location
SW USA
# of dives
500 - 999
This report is in two parts. I talk about the liveaboard here, and there's more about the diving at ...

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/so...ing-malpelo-aboard-yemaya-ii.html#post6027166

Note: The statements below are all my personal opinions. Your experiences may differ.

Yemaya II started life as a supply boat, built on the Gulf of Mexico, transporting people and equipment to the offshore oil wells there. She's 115' and 247 tons, built of steel, and powered by two Detroit Diesel engines. So far, that's all the basis for a good, sound sea boat, but some issues get in the way.

The dive deck provides a good-sized locker under each seat, but it doesn't solve the space issues. I have been on liveaboards with twice the dive deck area of this boat, and the effect of this is evident at gearing-up time. Too many bodies in not enough space. This was an irritating result of the boat not being purposely designed and built for diving.

There are shelves intended for camera rigs (no camera table on the dive deck), but anyone bringing aboard a seriously big camera rig would find these shelves too small. The supposedly dedicated camera rinse tank was big in surface area but shallow, causing a camera to bump on the bottom of it if left unattended. This was also a convenient place for one of the DM's to rinse out his booties. Three were also a few others who could never understand that it was a dedicated camera tank.

Your dive rig stays aboard the dive skiff for the entire trip. The crew pulls a manifold on a long hose, with four whips, onto the skiff to fill tanks. Everyone dives Nitrox, which is not included in the base price, but which is the default gas aboard. Nitrox was at 32% +/-, and dives were based on a PPO2 of 1.6. If someone had said they were sticking with 1.4, I'm not sure how it would have been handled. But on a 3-dive day, there was barely a case for Nitrox at all, and there were no adverse issues for anyone.

The food was a definite high point of the boat operation. Juan Carlos, a trained Cuban chef, did an excellent job. Breakfast was pretty basic, and mostly handled by his Panamanian assistant, but lunches and dinners were quite good. My only complaint was a couple of items that were not diver-friendly, at least for me ... one being some spicy, greasy sausages between the first two dives, and also a beef filet for lunch. The beef was done perfectly, but too heavy for me in the middle of a dive day.

Ah yes, I promised in the dive report that I would talk about the anchoring adventure here ...

On the first night out, the boat anchored at Isla Coiba, the last stop before the crossing to Malpelo. The boat carried a properly-sized anchor with about 60' of chain, but it was backed by wire rope (cable) of about 3/4" diameter. That might sound pretty stout, but with a 247 ton boat bucking against the anchor, it would only take dragging the wire over some sharp coral a couple of times to abrade it enough to cause it to part ... and it did. They set the emergency anchor, and the next day, which was to be our crossing to Malpelo, was consumed by searching for the lost anchor.

Most of the guests "volunteered" to search for the anchor for two dives, forming long lines and combing the bottom. Finally, on the last search dive, the owner found the anchor. We spent yet another night at Coiba, and departed for Malpelo the next morning. In my opinion, the ground tackle setup for this boat was too light, and was the cause of the anchor loss (and the loss of a day at Malpelo). The owner has since decided to go to an all chain rode. I thought it would have been a nice gesture for him to at least spring for everyone's alcohol for the trip, given the lost day plus our search dives. To my knowledge, there was no apology (the original ground tackle was his choice), no thanks, and no compensation.

Although the interior spaces of the boat are air conditioned, the result was rather unbalanced. Our (very compact) cabin suffered, and was so stuffy one night I had to abandon it at 3:00 AM and go crash on a settee in the saloon. Our neighbors had to sleep with their cabin door open to the interior passage just to get some kind of air exchange. Complaints about the A/C brought no change.

This boat has been modified to make it more acceptable to paying passengers. A second galley, settee space, and an aluminum superstructure have been added, providing day use space and a covered area for dining. This is certainly useful, but this weight is all added well above the boat's original CG (center of gravity). This has a negative effect on the boat's ultimate stability, and changes the roll period and arc. On our extremely bumpy crossing to Malpelo, the boat rolled through an arc nearing 70 degrees, in my estimation. Deck furniture and dishes were flying everywhere for a good part of the day. I thought about the effect of taking a big wave fully broadside, and didn't like what I was thinking.

My wife asked, during the trip, if I would recommend the boat to our diving friends. I answered, "No" without a pause. There were too many issues that could have been improved, many without serious cost implications, but they were not. These issues were experienced in addition to the poor visibility, which I understand is a crap shoot, and has nothing to do with the boat's operation. Right now, there are a total of five boats going to Malpelo, and this one is, in some respects, the best choice. You will have to decide for yourself if you want to visit this destination.
 
<<Note: The statements below are all my personal opinions. Your experiences may differ.

Truly so. Tastes differ. Thanks for the note.
I did 3 trips to Malpelo and 1 to Coiba - all with Yemaya - and was completely satisfied with all those trips. As for the boat and the crew - I would give them 5 stars "without a pause". On last trip, I brought my newly certified daughter - so much for: "
if I would recommend the boat to our diving friends". I put this comment only to make some justice to the people whose business I would never consider as "business", looks more like charity to me. The report above is definitely biased by bad mood, and I understand the frustration with unlucky events, but still.. Interesting, I did my second trip also in August, just in the beginning of the month, maybe 2 weeks earlier that the report above. Great viz, lots of encounters, nothing to complain :)
https://picasaweb.google.com/109551523806240479497/MalpeloDiving

 
Hi there,

I know all the boats currently frequenting Malpelo, Maria Patricia, Sea Wolf (Colombia), Inula and Yemaya (Panama). I boarded them all, dived with 3 of them and worked also as a dive guide on 3 of them.

Catamaran Nemo unfortunately left Colombia again, Here in Colombia we would be happy to have Liveaboards like in Panama, Costa Rica or Galapagos!

They are all an option, always depending what you are looking for and whats your needs. If you are looking to be most comfortable possible, looking for Nitrox and having an amazing culinaric experience Yemaya is the choice!

Its not easy to operate Malpelo, a destination 500km out in the open pacific ocean. Our beloved rock changes quickly the mood, can be very rough and sometimes seems to be quite, but don't get used to it!

The trip takes around 33 hours to get there, so its not for everybody.

We have to take that in account evaluating a liveabaord operation to this very special destination. Preview conditions is difficult but I recommend to visit Malpelo to every diver that wants to see something getting rare; lots of sharks and big amounts of fish. Its important to take in account at what time of the year to travel.

All the best

Arthur





Pura Colombia Travel and Dive
Pacific Diving
 
My trip to Malpelo on Yemaya II also somewhat lacked in good visibility, however I was very much impressed by the boat, the crew and the owner. I thought that they handled everything very professionally and they worked their a** off in order to make the trip a success. I don't know many details about boat construction, but the top deck is the best spot to hangout and it has plenty of space to accommodate a lot of people. So IMHO - Yemaya II is a very comfortable boat and I would gladly go on it again!
 
Hi there,


I recently came back from a trip to Malpelo on the Yemaya. Comments about the diving posted separately...


I LOVED the boat. I enjoyed myself so much that the set-up of the dive deck was a non-issue. The tanks and equipment were left in the skiffs for the entire duration of the trip so there was adequate space for 18 people (including divemasters) on the back deck. Also, our group of 9 divers preferred to let the other group go out 10 minutes ahead of us...


There was one photographer in our group who had a big camera and two more from the other group who had similar rigs. I didn't hear any negative feedback from any of them regarding the rinse tank nor on the shelves. But what do I know, it was certainly deep enough for my small point-and-shoot.


As to the nitrox, I personally liked knowing that I'd have a longer bottom time because I was diving with nitrox. It's kind of like carrying insurance — you might not need it, but it's good to have it just in case. Anyway, diving with air was always an available option for everyone.


And now, about my own experience:


The laid-back atmosphere and the competent crew onboard made for a very comfortable and enjoyable trip. The standard cabins were conveniently located on the lower level (above the water line) forward of the dive deck. After we dipped our cameras in the rinse tank, hung our wetsuits to dry, and enjoyed a freshwater rinse, it was just a hop, skip and a jump away to our cabins for a change of clothes or a more thorough shower. Meanwhile, Sergio, Felix, Franklin, and Tino were busy working behind the scenes, making sure that we always had nitrox in our tanks for our next dive, a fresh supply of dry towels, and clean cabins and common areas. For some of us who wanted to socialize, Captain Wil and divemasters Sten, Arthur, and Eric were always around to lend a helping hand or exchange jokes and life stories without invading our personal space.


My favorite place was the upper deck, where the sundeck, dining area, and bar were located. We always dined al fresco and Chef Juan Carlos would whip up the most delicious dishes, each with its own unique twist. Aside from preparing the usual continental fare, he also injected a lot of variety in the menu by serving different cuisines from the region and the Far East. And he made sure that guests who had special requests and last-minute dietary preferences were well-looked after. DJ Nelson would apply the finishing touch by carefully selecting a CD from his extensive music collection and playing the perfect accompaniment (special requests were entertained) to a feast served in a special, remote place. With this culinary tag team, other liveaboards would be hard-pressed to top the dining experience on the Yemaya.


Will I recommend the Yemaya to other diving friends? DEFINITELY! I highly recommend Coiba Dive Expeditions and will return for another trip to Malpelo on the Yemaya. I would also choose this liveaboard for a dive trip to Cocos. Following is the link to their website: Malpelo Diving | Cocos Diving | Coiba Diving | Coiba Whale Watching | Coiba Nature Expeditions
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom