Strobe for G10 / WP-DC28 housing

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Not sure how ej did his but I used some clear sticky "3M Dual Back" (Radio Shack has this), which is like Velcro but not a fabric (uses rubber hooks), so it holds great uw. The sticky back part holds well to the housing but I'm using some Plumber & Marine adhesive to hold the cable to the 2d piece of Dual Back. Since this part flexes when taking it off I didn't want a brittle adhesive and the sticky back doesn't hold that well if it isn't a solid surface. I'm using a small thin piece of plastic (like from a cd case) that I cut and sandwiched on top of the FO cable & Dual Back.

Made a small channel cut in the Dual back on the non-hook side to lay the FO cable in so it would be flush when I sandwiched the works together. Oh, a great tip somewhere back in this forum was to use a razor knife to slice the FO cable at an angle so it picks up the camera flash without the end having to be pointed into the camera flash. That way it all lies flush and has no problem triggering the external strobe even with the on-board flas set for minimal output. Takes longer to write about than to make! // ww
 
To attach the FO cable to the housing you can use this.
You can unscrew the FO cable and insert the one that fits your strobe.
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In comparison to the YS-27, the built in target light is a nice feature of the YS-110, but I don't think you will get the benefit of TTL with the WP-DC28 housing.

I agree with you and that statement makes the extra cost of the YS-110 Alpha not worth it.
I am a new G10/WD-DC28 owner and will also get a YS-27X.
However I feel a focus light is a must and will get the Fisheye Focus Light for around $50.US and add it to the tray on a separate arm.

My setup will eventually look like this:

complete_setup.jpg


The tray style is still subject to change. I have been using the loc-line arms and am use to them. They are easy to move around. I'm not sold on the ball joint type yet because they require tightening and loosening.
 
Gilligan, there is a difference between a focusing light and an aim light. With your diagram setup you won't know where the strobe is aimed. Maybe figure to rig the Fisheye attached to the YS27DX?

The YS110A internal aim light automatically shuts off when the strobe is triggered, then comes back on. (That alone might not make it worth the $$ difference but it is a nice feature.) // ww
 
Gilligan, there is a difference between a focusing light and an aim light. With your diagram setup you won't know where the strobe is aimed. Maybe figure to rig the Fisheye attached to the YS27DX?

The YS110A internal aim light automatically shuts off when the strobe is triggered, then comes back on. (That alone might not make it worth the $$ difference but it is a nice feature.) // ww

I do like the YS-110A and understand the dif bet a focus and aiming light but I am not concerned about aiming the strobe. I didn't have a problem with the YS-90DX I was using till it died.
There are those rare occasions you need a focus light to get the camera lens to focus in dark spots as well as it being invaluable on night dives.
The Fisheye focus light also turns off automatically when the strobe fires so as no to be in the photo.

I'm looking to keep my rig as compact as possible and also keep the costs down. If I was not concerned about the cost I would get the Ike housing, dome port and hard wired true TTL strobe.
 
I agree with you and that statement makes the extra cost of the YS-110 Alpha not worth it.
I am a new G10/WD-DC28 owner and will also get a YS-27X.
However I feel a focus light is a must and will get the Fisheye Focus Light for around $50.US and add it to the tray on a separate arm.

My setup will eventually look like this:

complete_setup.jpg


The tray style is still subject to change. I have been using the loc-line arms and am use to them. They are easy to move around. I'm not sold on the ball joint type yet because they require tightening and loosening.

I have the fantasea version of the same focus light. I've heard complaints about it lacking brightness, so I'm mounting mine closer to the lens to cut down the distance the light has to travel. I picked up one of THESE which is getting mounted on top of the housing centered directly above the lens port and THIS to attach the light to it. I haven't had much luck with mounting the coldshoe yet becasue I don't want to bond it permanently to the housing (for < $4, I have my doubts as to how long it'll last and I don't want to get stuck with a piece of junk fixed on the housing) and the double sided tapes I've tried aren't strong enough. I'm going to look into that 3M tape that was mentioned earlier in the thread to see if it'll be stong enough. I'm also kicking arond the idea of bonding a little piece of plexiglass to the top of the housing and attaching just the aluminum part of the choe to some predrilled & tapped holes on the plexiglass.
 
I have the fantasea version of the same focus light. I've heard complaints about it lacking brightness, so I'm mounting mine closer to the lens to cut down the distance the light has to travel. I picked up one of THESE which is getting mounted on top of the housing centered directly above the lens port and THIS to attach the light to it. I haven't had much luck with mounting the coldshoe yet becasue I don't want to bond it permanently to the housing (for < $4, .....
You don't really have to mount it closer, just use the flexi-arms and put the focus light where you want it. The picture below is the config I used last year in Oz. G9 with Canon housing, YS-27DX and same Nano focus light being discussed.
The flex arms are really handy.
After thinking about it for about a year, I have recently aquired a 2nd G9, an Ikelite housing with a short port, a DS51 strobe with TTL cord, a second slave strobe and alum arms. The rig is about 10 times the weight on land than the one I have. I'll let you know after my next trip if the pictures are any better. I already had the Inon wide & macro lenses, and am hoping to get utility of them with the new Ikelite setup.

frank_and_potato_cod.jpg

PS, I really was touching dead coral.
 
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