Wisdom of trusting one's dive computer?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

So you don't trust the computers that run your car at 70 mph? Or the ABS system in your brakes. How do you bypass those? Or your regulators? How do you analyze your gas without using technology? Does your fill station test for CO in their air with something other than a digital monitor?

I'm sorry, but your argument makes no sense. Like you, I've been at this for 45 years. logged 5500 dives, and have never been bent on recreational/technical dives... neither in the olden days of USN tables, or DCIEM tables... or, wait for it, using computers. I have been bent in a commercial environment when our profiles were cut using tables.

All I know is that I wasted countless hours of in water time when I ran tables in profiles that weren't square. The computers allow me to maximize my down time in a way that no table ever will.

Glad to hear you are as pleased with the way you dive as I am with the way I dive. It really doesn't matter what makes sense to others as long as it makes sense to me. I have no choice with the auto ECM the car needs it to pass inspection. My regulators are Scubapro Mk 5/156's with analog SPGs so no tech there. I use 21% so I don't need to analyze my gas. As far as the LDS goes what works for them is fine for me.
 
Glad to hear you are as pleased with the way you dive as I am with the way I dive.
Absolutely. I didn't mean to sound critical in my comments. Having said that, don't you find your profiles and your buddy's to be wildly different (inless you're doing square profiles).

I just think your argument of "not trusting" a piece of gear isn't especially compelling. Admittedly, some of the lower end PDCs are notoriously prone to failure. I always wore two of them, and generally a watch too.

Since I moved to Shearwaters, they've proven to be bomb-proof. But I still wear two of them on big dives. :cool:

Anyway, each to their own, right?

Safe diving is the common goal. There's more than one way to achieve that.
 
Since this is the basic forum - I really feel some misconceptions need cleared up.

My point was (and remains) that for recreational NDL diving, in the rare case you encountered a deco obligation that required a stop, a 85/85 GF setting is unwise.

I'd much rather take that first stop at 6m, rather than at 3m

Safety stops are considered somewhere between 3 and 6m - in PADI we teach 5m. 10' stops are quicker but harder for newbies to hold, 20' stops are easier to hold and keeps you safer from boat traffic, 15' stops are right there in the middle. The key is get above 30' but we don't really teach that key in recreational diving, you learn it later in Deco classes.

The difference in safety stop depths is difference in pressure gradients - the higher the pressure gradient, the faster the off gassing. Faster off gassing must be controlled, that is why decompression divers stop at say 40, 30, 20 and finally 10' during their decompression. For recreational diving, it is suggested by PADI and SSI that your safety stop depth be 15' which is a fantastic safe simple depth.

I posted profiles from two dives that could easily be a "mistake" made by someone - actually big mistakes. Both profiles show the first and only stop required being the 20' stop - my computer is set for the safety stop to be at 20'. For my open ocean, heavy boat traffic diving - 20' is the safer choice for my stops.

The difference between 45/85 and 85/85 is virtually nill when following recreational diving safety stop depths of 15' - fact is follow your computer.


If you end up getting 5 minutes of deco, the computer will bring you up safely (and probably more conservative than 85/85).

If you've violated NDL and gone into deco - the computer will direct you just as it's set - not any more liberal or conservative. The computer is a math processor and doesn't care if you are in deco or just fine - it does NOT get more conservative once you have entered deco.

Computers - if you have one, understand it - it's a powerful tool to assist you in diving safer. Most rec computers I see have different levels of conservatism - understand what the levels are. IMO, computers that relate to GF numbers are much easier to know where you are at verses micro bubble numbers like Suba Pro uses. GF numbers require some learning and understanding of what they are, how they effect the dive and where your body is at theoretically - especially if you alter them from basic settings.

@wstorms, @Fastmarc, @ChuckP, and @rjack321 again this for an unplanned deco obligation (rec diving does not involve deco)

If I had the Mares running 85/85 and had an unplanned deco obligation, I certainly wouldn't do my first stop at 3m.

My primitive understanding of the Buhlmann algorithm is that the GFlo setting won't materially change the amount of deco time. What it will change is where your stops are and how long you need to spend at each stop

Again, recommended safety stop depths for recreational diving are 15-20' - and staying within those depths will have a nill effect on 40/85 verses 85/85.

GF low determines the depth of your first stop. GF low of 40 means that you will stop when the leading tissue compartment is at 40% of the M value.

GF low can and does have an effect on total run time of the deco.

Deco stop depths and time are determined by the line between GF lo and hi - the GF high number is where you are at in relation to the M value when deco is complete.

You may notice on my dive profiles, I did not surface once deco was complete - I stayed at 20' for a few minutes longer. Shearwater computers allow you to monitor your SGF number and as an added margin of safety, most times I stay down till SGF is at 75 or below - no hurries.

It's 'more sporty' than I would prefer. No one understands what causes a person to take a DCS hit, all anyone can do is mitigate the risk. In my experience, you would have to incur a pretty large deco obligation to not have it clear as you ascended so this whole sub-thread could be us considering how many angels could dance on the head of a pin.

Remember, this sub-discussion started with @FeedFlyFreak saying 85/85 was his preferred setting for warm water NDL dives.

In my experience that is far from the truth UNLESS you get above 40 if not 30' and spend time. I have tried many times to see what it would take to clear 3-4 minutes of deco, it just doesn't go away untill you get up above 40' and really not till you hit 30'. We have many dives where the middle portion is in the 60' range and it don't go away, 50' don't go away, 40' ehh not really - you really have to get above 30' to have your fast compartments off gassing.

Remember, these are NDL dives - GF high is the number you worry about and whatever that number is depends on the individual diver. I can tell you a GF high of 80 is very close to a Scuba Pro MB=1 settiing. I can also say I see a lot of people diving Shearwaters set at medium.

Also, the GF high number is how rec divers relate to NDL, there was a poll somewhere on this board asking what the average GF people exited the water was and I think it was 60 or below.

NDL recreational diving is fun, it can be safe but requires you all the divers to look out for yourselves. There is no reason to "fall into deco" - stay five minutes away from deco at least. Ascend slowly, casually - do a five minute safety stop at 15 foot and ascend slowly to the surface. There's no hurry, no rush.
 
Absolutely. I didn't mean to sound critical in my comments. Having said that, don't you find your profiles and your buddy's to be wildly different (inless you're doing square profiles).

I just think your argument of "not trusting" a piece of gear isn't especially compelling. Admittedly, some of the lower end PDCs are notoriously prone to failure. I always wore two of them, and generally a watch too.

Since I moved to Shearwaters, they've proven to be bomb-proof. But I still wear two of them on big dives. :cool:

Anyway, each to their own, right?

Safe diving is the common goal. There's more than one way to achieve that.

My bias comes from working for EMC (data storage) for 20 years testing hi-tech equipment, it wasn't pretty most of the time. I've seen how the sausage is made and it's tainted my perspective.
 
My bias comes from working for EMC (data storage) for 20 years testing hi-tech equipment, it wasn't pretty most of the time. I've seen how the sausage is made and it's tainted my perspective.

LMAO
 
If I am understanding what you are saying, you are not understanding what you are saying.

NDL is a byproduct that is driven from your desired surface GF. the lower the desired GF hi the shorter the NDL will be. The physiological DECO point is crossing the M Line. So long as you Use a GF Hi of less than 99 you are creating a buffer zone between your desired surface GF and the M Line of 2:1. If you used a GF hi of 99 it says surface at 2:1. In that cse you exceed NDL and you are in deco. if you set GF Hi fofr 70 then you are saying you want to surface at a 1.7:1 ratio. In that case if you over stay if is no foul and just a case where you did not follow the plan, and not doing so has no negative consequence. The use of data like Shearwater's surfGF value does not change it reads the same no matter what conservative sertting you use. It may change color but that is it. Surf GF is the real data of what you did and where you will be at when you surface. If your gf hi is 70 surf GF will still say perhaps 90 so you stay at 20 a few more minutes till surf GF drops to 70 and turns green for being with in desired surf GF zone, and then go up. at that point GF99 is probably 10 because 20 to the surface is about 60 points.

If all computers had GF99 and Surf GF than the 3 min SS would be gone and a dead thing. The new method would be dtay at SS untill surf GF drops to xx and then surface.
The SS time of 3-5 minutes is a catch all rule used for decades becasuse the diver had no valid data what their current GF was. One could extrapulate that instead of using 30 ft/min ascent one could also monitor the GF99 and keep it below say 50 or some number and use that to govern the rate.

Technology has advanced a lot If we were talking about a car and following distance and a radar was installed in all cars we could then forget about the one rule for all of one car length per 10 mph and just set a following distance based on data from a dynamic device like the radar of say 10 ft per 10 mph which is simpler yet if you say your speed id is 60 following distance is 60 ft. speed of 80 distance is 80 ft. surfGF provides this kind of valid usable info for the diver instead of guesswork.
 
I have a Shearwater Teric. I pay attention to the NDL reading and I ascend any time it gets too low. According to the computer I have never incurred a deco obligation and I also have never been bent over the course of 67 dives.

I recently dived with a buddy who is into the GUE approach, and he said that he only dives with his computer in gauge mode and always calculates his dive plan in advance to avoid deco or account for it or whatever.

What is the better approach? Trusting the computer or doing pre-dive planning?

The lame thing about the pre-planning is it doesn't really leave any freedom. With the computer, it feels like I am safe to dive without any plan whatsoever, other than making sure not to incur deco.

If I have my computer set to conservative settings and it is a trusted brand and algorithm, aren't I safe to trust what it says?

Hi CaveSloth,

I am going to try to use a different way (an analogy) to describe my beliefs about relying on a single device while diving. Hopefully, I will answer your question.

Background: I was a professional mariner. I went to the California Martime Academy. I was a tug boat skipper.

I have a walk-out basement in my house. Right now, I can see a rutting buck in the forest behind my house. I love it. I have nautical charts (NOAA) on my walls for the channel islands of Southern California. I have signal flags (prominently displayed is signal flag Alpha). Fish flags and pictures are on the wall. My Master Mariner's license is also up.

All NOAA charts have this statement:
"The prudent mariner will not solely rely on any single aid to navigation, particularly floating aids. See U.S. Coast Guard light list and the U.S. Coast Pilot"

This rule is not only a standard for lights, shapes, and other floating aids. It is for everything that the mariner deals with.

Do you have a GPS chart plotter on your vessel? Confirm the data gleaned from that with your fathometer readings. Cross reference with your radar. Does it jibe with your DR?

Machinery...always have a back-up. Or, have an engine that can function with one cylinder off line (like some of the big ships). Redundancy. Always.

How does this relate to diving? Trust your computer but back-it-up with a dive plan. Either written or mental. If you are diving to 60 feet, you know you have an hour before you exceed NDL. Do you have a watch or other timing device with you?

If your computer craps out, use your plastic coated U.S. Navy decompression chart that you have in your pocket.

So, to answer your question directly, trust your computer but use other aids to confirm what it is telling you.

Edit added after others responded to this post: It is asinine to think that someone would switch to tables after a dive computer crapped out and continue their dive. The tables can be used to give some back-up info for your immediate ascent to the surface, which includes safety stops.

cheers,
markm
 
If your computer craps out
...go to your backup computer or ascend, do your safety-stop, and surface. The "table in your pocket" doesn't know how deep you've been nor for how long, and your backup watch doesn't know when you entered the water unless you set the bezel.
 
I dare say that there is a greater chance of failure in your reading and interpreting tables than a failure in your computer. Also, if you go by PADI tables your NDLs will be very liberal.
So, my best advice:
a. Know and use your computer.
b. Use your head.
c. If in doubt head up.
 
...go to your backup computer or ascend, do your safety-stop, and surface. The "table in your pocket" doesn't know how deep you've been nor for how long, and your backup watch doesn't know when you entered the water unless you set the bezel.

Thanks again Tursiops for adding the obvious. I was trying to avoid writing a doctoral thesis.

"The "table in your pocket" doesn't know how deep you've been nor for how long..." Yeah, but my running DR in my brain does. This is the Basic Scuba forum. We should not be writing about complicated tech dives.

I may not be a scientists but my brain works quite well.

By your response, I think it is safe to say we are in total agreement in terms of the strategy, without adding countless lists of tactics.

Keep it up brother and :cheers:

markm
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom