Jeffrey Zirkle
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Does anyone know what it takes to change output pressure from 3250 psi to 5000 psi ?
Adjusting output pressure Bauer U-10-G
- Thread starter Jeffrey Zirkle
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You will have to adjust the over pressure valve that is sealed with the lead blob on the wire, or replace the overpressure valve with a new one rated at your desired pressure. A new OPV is expensive, breaking the seal and adjusting your own OPV costs nothing but 15-20 minutes of your time (actually start to finish with no prior experience ended up taking me about an hour and a half).
You will have to grind one spanner a lot thinner since there are 2 nuts inside that are tightened against each other and the bottom nut is pretty thin. These lock the shaft that presses on the adjusting spring for the over pressure release. I'm pretty sure that backing the shaft out (using a slotted screwdriver) increases the air pressure, which will naturally change when you retighten the 2 nuts - you gotta play with untill you get it pretty close to what you want. Finally put the lid back on and make a label to cover the engraved 225Bar with what it really is.
Michael
You will have to grind one spanner a lot thinner since there are 2 nuts inside that are tightened against each other and the bottom nut is pretty thin. These lock the shaft that presses on the adjusting spring for the over pressure release. I'm pretty sure that backing the shaft out (using a slotted screwdriver) increases the air pressure, which will naturally change when you retighten the 2 nuts - you gotta play with untill you get it pretty close to what you want. Finally put the lid back on and make a label to cover the engraved 225Bar with what it really is.
Michael
Your compressor was made back in May 1987, do you really want to increase the working pressure by 50%? The filter cartridge housing is aluminum, having a defined service life, and should have been replaced over 10 years ago. I'd hate to be standing anywhere nearby if that filter housing breaks shortly after you adjusted the OPV to 330 Bar. Thats why you can pick up used P41 and P61 Filter housings on Ebay for a song, they have reached their end of life date, and must be replaced with new in a commercial setting. None of these sellers will ever state in their ad "Had to be replaced because testing authority determined that further use was unsafe!".
Michael
Michael
By the way, the kink in your fill hose is unsafe too. Replace that fillhose. EOL in commercial use is 10 years after manufacture date.
Michael
Michael
Sorry about being an a**hole, but before upping your compressor to 330Bar, you should make it as safe as you can.
Michael
Michael
OP
Jeffrey Zirkle
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This gives me something to think about as I have spoke to a compressor tech and for a process stage of 500.00 he can safely make it output 5000 psi. Only problem is it would be a 4 hour trip up and 4 hours back. And with the virus outbreak I do not know if i want to chance a trip at this time.
So i was hoping it was something i could do myself.
So i was hoping it was something i could do myself.
Jeff,
for 500 he will replace the OPV with a new 330Bar one. About 5 minutes of work. You will still be using a kinked fill hose that will soon fail., and a filter housing that is past it's prime.
You can save the 500 by doing what I posted in my first post and then spend some of the saved 500 on a new fillhose and maybe getting the pressure vessel of your filter magnafluxed, if as expected the magnaflux does not reveal any cracks you are good to go.
If you change to synthetic oil, remember that doing so will free up many years of varnish and other gunk from the inside of your compressor. If not done properly, doing so will break your compressor.
Done right, it's the best thing you can do for it.
Procedure, drain old oil out overnight.
Fill with new synthetic compressor oil. Run the compressor for max 4-5 hours and drain the synthetic out while it is still hot. Refill with new synthetic oil after it is no longer dripping. Now you are at a point where you can use the compressor for 15-20 hours with the new oil, and a new filter cartridge. This oil is still working cleaning accumilated varnish/gunk out of your compressor so it should be changed no later than 20 hours of use.
After the 3rd oil change you are now at a point where the compressor is almost happy with the new oil and can go a hundred hours before the next oil change. Finally after the 4th oil change the compressor is used to the new synthetic oil and you can now change oil every 2 years or 500 hours (some manuals say 1000 hours).
Compressors, although lots of people will tell you different, ARE NOT ROCKET SCIENCE, if you can fix a lawn mower, you won't have problems replacing parts on a compressor, although using the tools to remove varnished in valves is not easy and may involve days of brake cleaner, the right bauer valve tool, a big vise with aluminum padded jaws and a bit of cursing. Many Bauer tecs just replace the cylinder head since at 50 an hour for their time, its cheaper than spending several hours trying to replace a well stuck valve.
This is a link to the manual for your your compressor back when it was made:
https://www.bauer-kompressoren.de/f...-part-list/v-p-u-10/1986_10_01_tvpu10-1_2.pdf
Michael
for 500 he will replace the OPV with a new 330Bar one. About 5 minutes of work. You will still be using a kinked fill hose that will soon fail., and a filter housing that is past it's prime.
You can save the 500 by doing what I posted in my first post and then spend some of the saved 500 on a new fillhose and maybe getting the pressure vessel of your filter magnafluxed, if as expected the magnaflux does not reveal any cracks you are good to go.
If you change to synthetic oil, remember that doing so will free up many years of varnish and other gunk from the inside of your compressor. If not done properly, doing so will break your compressor.
Done right, it's the best thing you can do for it.
Procedure, drain old oil out overnight.
Fill with new synthetic compressor oil. Run the compressor for max 4-5 hours and drain the synthetic out while it is still hot. Refill with new synthetic oil after it is no longer dripping. Now you are at a point where you can use the compressor for 15-20 hours with the new oil, and a new filter cartridge. This oil is still working cleaning accumilated varnish/gunk out of your compressor so it should be changed no later than 20 hours of use.
After the 3rd oil change you are now at a point where the compressor is almost happy with the new oil and can go a hundred hours before the next oil change. Finally after the 4th oil change the compressor is used to the new synthetic oil and you can now change oil every 2 years or 500 hours (some manuals say 1000 hours).
Compressors, although lots of people will tell you different, ARE NOT ROCKET SCIENCE, if you can fix a lawn mower, you won't have problems replacing parts on a compressor, although using the tools to remove varnished in valves is not easy and may involve days of brake cleaner, the right bauer valve tool, a big vise with aluminum padded jaws and a bit of cursing. Many Bauer tecs just replace the cylinder head since at 50 an hour for their time, its cheaper than spending several hours trying to replace a well stuck valve.
This is a link to the manual for your your compressor back when it was made:
https://www.bauer-kompressoren.de/f...-part-list/v-p-u-10/1986_10_01_tvpu10-1_2.pdf
Michael
Most Bauer techs here looking at that compressor would laugh so hard at being offered 50 an hour.
Then suggest two options. 1. Scrap it being the first. Or Its already been scrapped and its been sold to a paintballer come air gunner with hope. One thing for sure it wont fill a scuba cylinder again and if it did the CO from that air intake would be its last.
The 3rd option if its helpful is that its already past option 2 and so reverts to option 1.
As they say beyond econonical repair as hope dies last.
Iain, nowhere does he state that it won't build up pressure, so the valves are probably still working. Gas engines and diving air are NOT mutally exclusive since sticking a 2M length of 20mm conduit into the top of the air filter is an old Bauer trick. Bauer also makes filters that filter the CO out (sure they cost 60% more than normal filters and have a shorter service life. Hanging a 2KW electric motor from Ebay on the compressor is also not very expensive after he has determined that everything else works.
Sure the ball-valve before the screwy hose isn't from Bauer but if the Ermeto fittings are "S" it should hold the pressure. If anything there is marked L or LL that has to be replaced.
If you have convinced Jeff to junk it, Jeff please wait a couple of months and then send the compressor to me in Lake City Fl, I'll happily pay postage and as long as the compressor isn't siezed up a couple of months later it'll look and work like new.
Michael
Sure the ball-valve before the screwy hose isn't from Bauer but if the Ermeto fittings are "S" it should hold the pressure. If anything there is marked L or LL that has to be replaced.
If you have convinced Jeff to junk it, Jeff please wait a couple of months and then send the compressor to me in Lake City Fl, I'll happily pay postage and as long as the compressor isn't siezed up a couple of months later it'll look and work like new.
Michael
OP
Jeffrey Zirkle
Registered
Wow guys, slow down a bit.
There is nothing wrong with my compressor as it works fine. I fill my scuba tank twice a year and I use it while at the range. The hose is not kinked and has been replaced a few years ago.
There is nothing wrong with my compressor as it works fine. I fill my scuba tank twice a year and I use it while at the range. The hose is not kinked and has been replaced a few years ago.
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