Are can lights still necessary for non-cave tech diving?

[Dr. Lecter]

So you should carry enough weight to offset the loss of the hand-held light in case you accidentally drop it?

If you're fine-tuning your weighting for tech diving that closely, I'd say you're doing it wrong. Cutters, reels, backup lights, scooters, stages, etc...all things you might have to either cut loose or drain so far they become more buoyant.

Just saying there's nothing special about a can in terms of 'oh, I know why you should have one: so you have emergency ditchable weight!'

 

[USFpsychDiver]

I've dove both can & wireless in cave with buddies who use can and buddies who do wireless. For now I'm sticking with can. I can get nearly equivalent brightness from wireless, and can change batteries between dives so as long as I've got two hours plus a little of run time I'm good. Like a couple of others have mentioned, it's having the weight and bulk of lighthead & battery on my hand that keeps me using my can. Yes the wire can be a hassle sometimes, not entanglement so much as getting hung up on my gear -- recently switched to sidemount and still getting things to hang right. Until batteries get much smaller and lighter I'll keep mine on my waistband or buttplate.

 

[TSandM]

The whole "ditchable can light" thing really was only relevant back in the days of lead-acid batteries, which were huge and heavy. I think my canister is about 200g negative; that won't make any difference at all in my overall buoyancy if I ditch it.

 

[kwinter]

kwinter,

A trick I learned with power tools and theatre lights is to tie a loose overhand knot using the cord and extension cord where they meet (so a tug on either the cord or the extension cord won't pull them apart). Will this trick work with your E/O cords?

Safe Diving,

rx7diver

I do it with my power tools and thought about it with the can light after that incident. But I know those wires are extremely thin and fragile so I didn't want the extra stress. Might have to reconsider that if I can't come up with an alternative.

They do make locking E/O cords. I have had an e/o cord pull apart too, but with the goodman handle the light stayed put in my hand.

AJ - if you can find a link, please let me know. I asked Jon Nellis about it, but he has a strong dislike for what we all call E/O connectors because they really aren't the right thing in his opinion. I'm looking for something with the simple 2 pins we all know and use, but with a click lock that is easily released. This should not be difficult to manufacture, but I haven't found anyone who does.

 

[Tigerman]

are you referring to your weight belt, or any ditchable weight integrated pocket as well?

You dont carry your weight belt or integrated weight just so you can ditch it, you carry it to offset the bouyancy you have in your gear...

 

[DevonDiver]

I think hand-held light technology is 'nearly there' in respect for providing necessary beam-strength and burn-time for all bar expedition-grade cave diving.

I've used Sola Tech torches a few times. They're not quite up to the task; mainly because the beam isn't tight enough (a design, not technology issue) and the soft-goodman handle is flimsy/badly constructed (not rugged enough). But... the next generation to follow should provide for most divers, I suspect.

 

[flots am]

The whole "ditchable can light" thing really was only relevant back in the days of lead-acid batteries, which were huge and heavy. I think my canister is about 200g negative; that won't make any difference at all in my overall buoyancy if I ditch it.

I don't think it was valid even then. I owned one and although it weighed a ton on land, it was only very slightly negative underwater.

flots

 

[divad]

If you're fine-tuning your weighting for tech diving that closely, I'd say you're doing it wrong. Cutters, reels, backup lights, scooters, stages, etc...all things you might have to either cut loose or drain so far they become more buoyant.

Just saying there's nothing special about a can in terms of 'oh, I know why you should have one: so you have emergency ditchable weight!'

So, that's a yes; you should not count either a canister or a non canister light as weight. Or, if you drop your non-canister light you should have enough ballast that it won't matter.

 

[PfcAJ]

I do it with my power tools and thought about it with the can light after that incident. But I know those wires are extremely thin and fragile so I didn't want the extra stress. Might have to reconsider that if I can't come up with an alternative.



AJ - if you can find a link, please let me know. I asked Jon Nellis about it, but he has a strong dislike for what we all call E/O connectors because they really aren't the right thing in his opinion. I'm looking for something with the simple 2 pins we all know and use, but with a click lock that is easily released. This should not be difficult to manufacture, but I haven't found anyone who does.

it was some time ago that i saw it, and it wasn;t a 2pin like we currently see on scuba stuff. i think this was the website, but i can't seem to find it now.
http://seaconworldwide.com/products/electrical-wet-mate/all-wet/

 

[kwinter]

it was some time ago that i saw it, and it wasn;t a 2pin like we currently see on scuba stuff. i think this was the website, but i can't seem to find it now.
http://seaconworldwide.com/products/electrical-wet-mate/all-wet/

Interesting. This seems to be the standard one that we all use. Wet?Connect ? Diver's Series 18 Gauge Cable
But on the page you posted, I found something called a locking sleeve. http://seaconworldwide.com/wp-content/uploads/AW-Round_-_Locking_Sleeves.pdf
It probably only works with their connectors, but at least we're on the right track.