Best spots at Red sea

[Christian]

I spoke to the MD of Emperor on this very question, reports are that Sudan Diving is very seasonal and the quality of the operators in the area are still below par.

If you want high quality Diving in the Red Sea it's not just question of where, but when. Personally I recommend Sharm during the summer months is amazing since you get to see a bit of everything.

Southern Red Sea also good, Marsa Alam seems to be the "in" place at the minute.

It is very true. You have to pick the right time, but that is the case for the whole of the Red Sea and not only Sudan, and also for most places in the world. As you point out, there's a huge difference on RasMo in july compared to january.
I have not been to the Sudan every month of the year, but in my experience (and many others) spring is the best time with intense marine life and many sharks. Schooling hammerheads are the icing. For mantas the early fall is the best. Mantas gather in the Mesharifa channel from august to october. I have not bewitnessed this phenomena personally, but have heard the stories of 20-30 huge manta rays swimming around the place.
There is a new ship this season in the Sudan, the Royal Emperor, which used to sail the off shore islands in Egypt. It is a full fledged dive vessel with AC, ensuite cabins and NITROX. One of the better ships I have been on. Can't say anything about the captain and the crew though, because she has swopped owners.
Another good ship for the fanatic diver is the Don Questo. It doesn't have anything to offer in the form of luxury, but it is a very sturdy vessel, built for long journeys in rough seas. Huge water tanks, big compressors, very good food and a flexible captain and crew that will offer you true unlimited diving.
It must be said, though, that generally, Sudan is not a destination for divers wishing to get pampered. But for the diver who are more into "expedition"-type of trips instead of dive "holidays", it might be just right. Because the diving in Sudan is superior to the diving in Egypt inmo. However the diving in Egypt can be very good. My, and many other divers, favourite area in Egypt is the Brother Islands.

/christian

 

[Red Sea Shadow]

Because the diving in Sudan is superior to the diving in Egypt inmo. However the diving in Egypt can be very good. My, and many other divers, favourite area in Egypt is the Brother Islands.

/christian

Would you explain why, in your opinion, diving in Sudan is superior to diving in Egypt? I know Sudan is less crowded than Egypt, but I think it's attracting more and more people now.
IMO, diving in Sudan is similar to diving in the deep sothern Egyptian Red Sea. However, diving in Egypt is superior because of the variety offered and the difference between north, south, and deep south.
I agree with you, the Brothers are among the best diving spots in Egypt. St. Jones is pretty good as well.

 

[Diver0001]

Marsa Alam is good but its best sites are abailable only via liveaboards, and this what makes Sharm unique. Ras Mohamed, Tiran, and even Gubal are accessible by daily boats from Sharm.

Really? You have quite a range within 1/2 hour on a zodiac from several places up and down the coast from Marsa Alam and the reefs are spectacular.

You know the area better than I do, I'm sure, but let's not leave people the impression that you *must* take a live-aboard to see great stuff around Marsa Alam. Anywhere you jump overboard along that whole reef is spectacular. I suppose the live-aboard only upgrades your experience from "spectacular" to "mind-blowing".

R..

 

[Christian]

Would you explain why, in your opinion, diving in Sudan is superior to diving in Egypt? I know Sudan is less crowded than Egypt, but I think it's attracting more and more people now.
IMO, diving in Sudan is similar to diving in the deep sothern Egyptian Red Sea. However, diving in Egypt is superior because of the variety offered and the difference between north, south, and deep south.
I agree with you, the Brothers are among the best diving spots in Egypt. St. Jones is pretty good as well.

In layman terms: more spieces, more of everything, bigger of everything. To me it is a very noticable difference on the reefs. It has been established since long that the Sudanese coast has the best biodiversity in the Red Sea. Dr. Hans Hass and Costeau, that researched the entire length of the Red Sea, concluded that Sudan offered the "best" diving already in the 1950's, and construction and tourism along the Egyptian coast hasn't improved the situation underneath the surface in Egypt.

There's a lot more talk about Sudan today, but in reality there are very, very few people visiting compared to Egypt. It's like night and day. There's no tourist infrastructure for people who are not diving. There are something like 10-12 liveaboard boats operating out of Port Sudan. That's about it. I'd be very surprised if there are more than 1000-1500 divers in Sudan each year. And what are the numbers for the Egyptian Red Sea? I don't know, but more than 100.000 I would believe.

You could argue that all Red Sea diving is similar. Eilat diving is similar to the diving further down the Sianai coast ... And frankly, the diving in the deep south Egypt, from St Johns down to Sha'ab Abu Fendera isn't at all like sudanese diving. The African trench juts out to sea around Rocky Island and leaves the more southern reefs sitting in comparatively shallow water on the continental shelf, and then returns close to shore around Elba Reef way into sudanese territory. Sudanese diving is characterized by reefs coming up from the deepest parts of the Red Sea, which influences the diversity and quantity of life on the reefs.

I hope it doesn't sound like I'm bashing Egypt here, because the diving is really wonderful there as well. It's just that the diving in Sudan inmo is one notch up.

/christian

 

[Red Sea Shadow]

Really? You have quite a range within 1/2 hour on a zodiac from several places up and down the coast from Marsa Alam and the reefs are spectacular.

You know the area better than I do, I'm sure, but let's not leave people the impression that you *must* take a live-aboard to see great stuff around Marsa Alam. Anywhere you jump overboard along that whole reef is spectacular. I suppose the live-aboard only upgrades your experience from "spectacular" to "mind-blowing".

R..

May be you are right. All I was aiming to say is that diving in Sharm offers more variety. However, diving in Marsa Alam is very good also.

I was just trying to compare the top-notch sites of each area so I mentioned that the best sites around Sharm are accessible by daily boats while those of Marsa Alam are not, except for the Elphinstone of course.

 

[Red Sea Shadow]

In layman terms: more spieces, more of everything, bigger of everything. To me it is a very noticable difference on the reefs. It has been established since long that the Sudanese coast has the best biodiversity in the Red Sea. Dr. Hans Hass and Costeau, that researched the entire length of the Red Sea, concluded that Sudan offered the "best" diving already in the 1950's, and construction and tourism along the Egyptian coast hasn't improved the situation underneath the surface in Egypt.

Well I noticed that the deep southern part of the Egyptian Red Sea has bigger species than the northern part. More quantities as well. But more species??? I'd rather say different species.

The difference in Reef is correct but actually it's a matter of personal taste. I met several people who prefer Dahab, not even Sharm, to others parts in the Red Sea. So Dr. Hans Hass and Costeau's opinions are purely personal.

There's a lot more talk about Sudan today, but in reality there are very, very few people visiting compared to Egypt. It's like night and day. There's no tourist infrastructure for people who are not diving. There are something like 10-12 liveaboard boats operating out of Port Sudan. That's about it. I'd be very surprised if there are more than 1000-1500 divers in Sudan each year. And what are the numbers for the Egyptian Red Sea? I don't know, but more than 100.000 I would believe.

Yes that's true. Actually I'm very sad that I can't do the deep southern part of the Egyptian Red Sea along with the Sudanese part in one liveaboard trip.

You could argue that all Red Sea diving is similar. Eilat diving is similar to the diving further down the Sianai coast ... And frankly, the diving in the deep south Egypt, from St Johns down to Sha'ab Abu Fendera isn't at all like sudanese diving. The African trench juts out to sea around Rocky Island and leaves the more southern reefs sitting in comparatively shallow water on the continental shelf, and then returns close to shore around Elba Reef way into sudanese territory. Sudanese diving is characterized by reefs coming up from the deepest parts of the Red Sea, which influences the diversity and quantity of life on the reefs.

Of course NOT. Dahab is not like Sharm, and the two of them are very different than deep south. That's my point from the very first beginning, and that's what makes, IMO, Sudan a bit similar to deep southern Egyptian Red sea, but the variety of everything is not in Sudan. It is in Egypt. Actually the Gulf of Aqaba is different than the open Red Sea, and that what makes Dahab unique. I'm not sure about depths here and I have to revise. Are you sure the Sudanese part is deepest? I know that places around Sinai peninsula are very deep.

I hope it doesn't sound like I'm bashing Egypt here, because the diving is really wonderful there as well. It's just that the diving in Sudan inmo is one notch up.

Of course NOT Christian. I hope it doesn't sound like I'm bashing Sudan. I always wanted to dive the Umbria there. All what we're doing it trying to shed lights on our different experiences and learning from each other.

 

[Christian]

Well I noticed that the deep southern part of the Egyptian Red Sea has bigger species than the northern part. More quantities as well. But more species??? I'd rather say different species.

The difference in Reef is correct but actually it's a matter of personal taste. I met several people who prefer Dahab, not even Sharm, to others parts in the Red Sea. So Dr. Hans Hass and Costeau's opinions are purely personal.



Yes that's true. Actually I'm very sad that I can't do the deep southern part of the Egyptian Red Sea along with the Sudanese part in one liveaboard trip.



Of course NOT. Dahab is not like Sharm, and the two of them are very different than deep south. That's my point from the very first beginning, and that's what makes, IMO, Sudan a bit similar to deep southern Egyptian Red sea, but the variety of everything is not in Sudan. It is in Egypt. Actually the Gulf of Aqaba is different than the open Red Sea, and that what makes Dahab unique. I'm not sure about depths here and I have to revise. Are you sure the Sudanese part is deepest? I know that places around Sinai peninsula are very deep.



Of course NOT Christian. I hope it doesn't sound like I'm bashing Sudan. I always wanted to dive the Umbria there. All what we're doing it trying to shed lights on our different experiences and learning from each other.

Spieces diversity is richer in Sudan than in Egyptian waters. You can find all the stuff there which can be found in the Egyptian Red Sea, plus some more. It has to do with the extreme geolocical conditions (very deep waters) and an comparatively higher avarage water tempretaure, even at depth. So it's not only more and bigger. It is also more diverse, it's a scientific fact and not a matter of personal taste.

The deepest part of the Red Sea is between Sudan and Saudi, a little more than 3000 meters. It is actually the same rift valley as in Aqaba. It starts in Mocambique, goes through East Africa, over to Ethiopia/Eritrea and out in the Red Sea, up to Ras mohamed, through the gulf of Aquba, past Eilat, throgh the dead sea and then finally ending in Syria.

I guess you sort of answer your own question when you do the comparison Dahab/Sharm/South Egypt. Sudan diving is not the same as diving the south egypt. It is very different from the St John area. The most similar I can think of would be Rocky Island, but with a LOT more fish - big schools of barracuda, snapper and trevally. Schooling bumphead parrotfish and then, more sharks.

 

[Diver0001]

Cristian,

Excellent photos. How good is the infrastructure for divers?

R..

 

[MRs2]

I prefer Sudan over Egypt for diving for a few reasons. One of them is the amount of divers. At one point there were 11 live aboards, but because the situation in Sudan many people don't want to go there. So last year only 9 boats were left. And there is the Port Sudan Hilton to stay if you want to dive.

This means that the reefs won't be very crowded, which is nice, but also because of that there is less damage done. Take for instance the long whip corals you see there. In Egypt most of these are broken off.
I also agree with Christian that in general you see more and a greater variety of species, although that depends a bit on the conditions.

I'd say the decision depends on what you want from your dives. If you want to see many sharks you may have a better chance in the Sudan. I have never seen such large schools of hammerheads, and so often as in the Sudan. But you can never be sure. Last year most of the places where I have seen them before were totally shark-less, because there was no current at all. (In my 4 Sudan trips this was the only time there was no current). In south part of Egypt I have seen schools of hammerheads as well, but not very often.
Also in the Sudan I've seen at almost every dive (I make 35-45 dives per trip) an enormous school of big parrothead bumpfish.
As for the smaller species: I find in general you see more of them in the Sudan as well.

But when you have no current things are different. Not all reefs in the Sudan are so special in the coral growth, so if you have no current there than it gets less interesting. Angarosh for instance is known for its sharks, and is a great dive when they are there. When they are not most of the attraction of the reef is gone. Some reefs are always good, like Sha'ab Rumi.

Also realize that most boats in Sudan will do only a few reefs. Going to the southern reefs is to far away for most trips.

In Egypt I like the south in general more because of the larger fish, and more of them compared to more north. In the north you will see the same fish, but they are just smaller there, and there are less. For diversity in coral growth the north is better in my opinion.

Then you will have more divers in the northern parts of Egypt. Whether you like that is up to you.

As for the rest: Egypt has a tourist industry. You will find shops, restaurants, disco's, bars, shows. In the south that gets less. In Sudan you just don't find this at all. There is a curfew, at midnight everybody is inside and you won't see any lights. Alcohol is stricktly forbidden. You can't buy it, and you better not bring it, for they check everything and if they find it you have a problem. (However, they may be able to get you some on a live aboard). The Hilton hotel in Port Sudan is the most beautiful of all Hiltons I have seen, but it is boring.
I like to walk around in the soukhs in Port Sudan, and a few other places outside of Port Sudan, but when you've seen those you've seen those. Not much else to do there.

You can have a look at my website for some Sudan pictures: category scuba for live aboard and underwater pictures, category living for Port Sudan, Suakin, Sanganeb and the smugglers market Soukh Lybia, and category nature for a tiny island/reef.

 

[alijtaylor]

I spoke to the MD of Emperor on this very question, reports are that Sudan Diving is very seasonal and the quality of the operators in the area are still below par.

If you want high quality Diving in the Red Sea it's not just question of where, but when. Personally I recommend Sharm during the summer months is amazing since you get to see a bit of everything.

Southern Red Sea also good, Marsa Alam seems to be the "in" place at the minute.

Hi Mike

What time was reported as good in Sudan? I am considering options for May next year.

Alison