Blackbeard’s – Certainly Not For Everyone!

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DandyDon

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ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
53,686
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Location
One kilometer high on the Texas Central Plains
# of dives
500 - 999
The company advertises “Camping At Sea,” but my post-Marine Corps camping has always included large tents and nearby full service privies. I received some great suggestions from others on how to make the best of my first Blackbeard’s, and they really helped a lot. See those here I had my wide bottom coffee cup, my carpenter’s clips, my cushion, and added one of my own – a camping pad in addition to on the bunk pad. But for anyone who would like a few views short of praise, I’ll offer some here.


It’s a fine operation and a fine value, but they do seem to exaggerate their claims: “Twice the fun, half the cost,” and a few others. (Exaggerations in advertising, imagine that?)
(1) It’s not all that cheap if you’re not close. Miami can be a costly plane ticket from some locations, and the prudent traveler will arrive a day early and overnight in a local hotel to ensure being there in time to trouble shoot delayed bags and make the port before the boat sails.
(2) The cabins aren’t just crowded; they’re cramped. We had four men in the forward cabin bunks, with no room for a duffle, except I had one, which spent nights filling the floor and days in my bunk. Any naps I caught involved cuddling my duffle, and we shared a tiny, hand-crank head with four ladies. We had clothing hung everywhere – on the escape hatch ladder, on the fire extinguisher, everywhere. Eight of the twenty seven or eight onboard could sit at the dining table at a time.
(3) They promised me plenty of coffee and hot chocolate, but they just failed that one. There was coffee every breakfast, but no spare supplies, and only after the chef raided a sister boat in port did we have hot chocolate for three days.
(4) Unlike the California live aboards I’ve enjoyed, wet suits are not allowed in the galley. I asked the chef if I was dry enough, and he noted that I was, but I got booted anyway. I don’t like removing my suit between dives, but it took over two hours for the solitary compressor to fill tanks anyway.
(5) They were very causal about confirming everyone was on board before moving. The boats have On & Off boards for each passenger to move name tags, but that was a joke. Mostly they went by tank counts and causal dockside head counts.
(6) There is no sun shade or wind break on the deck – nada!
(7) And I’ll hit some other details…


Day 0:

I made Miami from Lubbock on Xmas day after completing family functions, even though the air travel system was still backed up from winter storms earlier in the week and Delta was operating with major computer outages that had completely shut down their Comair subsidiary with repercussions on their whole system. Got all my bags to my hotel just fine for the night, so that big step was done.


Day 1:

Another SB member had been visiting friends nearby and met me at my airport hotel after returning her rental car, so we were fine for the scheduled noon boarding and 3pm sailing, but we know how wind can change divers’ plans. Yep, 25 to 35 knots kept us in port until the next day. Caca happens. Most of us went shopping at the adjacent mall. She needed a towel and we found a Bahaman flag beach towel in one shop. She was not surprised that I’d researched and recognized the ensign, as she knows me to be pretty hyphenated.

It’s fortunate for some that we were delayed leaving, as many planned to arrive around noon sailing day, only to straggle in thru supper time, one other SB lady from Seattle without a single checked bag. We took her for a run thru the mall, I found a good deal on a couple pair of Reef shoes, we were well fed, and a few of us closed down the Daiquiri Bar.


Day 2:

We did finally make a run for it at daybreak, and it was only moderately rough until we hit the Gulf Stream. Then the adventure turned into an endurance challenge, with most toughing it out above with 12-15 foot waves that occasionally covered the little tub. A few of us just took our sedating antihistamines and slept the crossing off in our racks. We did make private Cat Cay to clear Bahaman immigrations & customs by evening, and as it was the holiday season perhaps, we were invited to visit the little country club type bar – a first for all the years that Blackbeard’s has been visiting. Maybe ten of us did avail ourselves of the nice bar, and I was so taken by the local bartender’s hospitality that – even tho I’d only had one $6 drink, I presented him with an extra $5 with my thanks as I left. First time I’d ever had an away barkeep shake my hand; it was a nice exchange.


Day 3:

We would have made an early morning dive, but a six month pregnant passenger had skipped the crossing, opting for a puddle jumper plane in. Good that she didn’t make the crossing, but what was she doing in this group anyway? I guess she and her physician had agreed? She didn’t make it anyway.

After 72 hours of traveling, I finally got in the water. It was my first time to dive with this particular lady buddy, but things went well until I used my slate to ask if she knew where the boat was? I thought she said she didn’t, but I could have misunderstood her black gloved signals. (Gloves on a reef dive?) Possibly not knowing she knew a better way, I started leading. Male vs. Female may have happened along the way, but while I didn’t find the drift line, we surfaced 40 yards away for a leisurely back kick in. She was pissed about something, tho, and I was quickly dismissed from diving with her again, ever?

I was nearly geared up for the second dive when I saw the first divers coming back aboard crying about viz and current. Skipped that one. We made another run into Bimini to pick up the special lady, and some then made the third dive for the day, but I just wrote the afternoon off as a loss. With the delay for special pickup incurred, this late afternoon dive turned into a surprise night dive with some not carrying lights. The lady who fired me earlier in the day went out with a DM lady customer, and the pair was barely seen a mile down current as the sun was setting. It took a while for the chase boat to find them in the dark, but they survived. I was really looking forward to being vindicated for bringing her back only 40 yards from the boat earlier in the day, but that didn’t happen. Coming back 40 yards away with me was unforgivable, but coming up a mile away and moving away rapidly at sundown with another gal was fine. ??????????????


Day 4:

The sun rose! I got pictures. It shined most of the day, and it seemed like the Camp Grenada syndrome was breaking up.

The morning dive was okay, but the current was just too much. I fought it for the entire dive and still came up too far a swim in. My first time to be picked up by a chase boat, and guess who was already in it when they got to me? That’s right. The same.

The second morning dive went much better. I felt alarmed when I saw our future momma at thirty feet, but again – her call. Never said a word. The afternoon dive was also nice, but with the air compressor time required, the fourth planned was to be the night dive. I wasn’t feeling 100% at this point and had some questions still about the whole situation, so I skipped it.


Day 5:

I awoke during the night to chills and shivers, thinking our All-Or-Not AC must be zooming – only to see my three cabin mates uncovered in the heat of an uncooled cabin. “Wrong dream – Reset.” Made the first dive of the mornings to 130 feet on a wall, cautious of the down currents having been experienced in the past at this site – to the loss of one customer and one captain in the twenty odd year operation of the company, but my only problem was feeling chilled in 75F water in a suit I’ve worn comfortably to 65F?

Back on deck and ungeared, it hit me hard, and I was in bed sick until further notice. Word got to he crew that they had an ill customer below after a deep wall dive and I soon had both captains with me. I assured them that while I understood their concerns, I was certainly not bent. My computer had remained in Green for the whole dive, I did my deep stop, slow ascent, safety stop, and clicked off two more Green notches in the water. As well hydrated on sports drink as I was, no chance, just sick!

Later in the day, it occurred to me that I might be a threat to the health of the boat, and when one of the skippers came to check on me – I offered to be set ashore in Bimini with my trip insurance. He didn’t see a need for that, thanked me for my offer, and I toughed it out.
 
Day 6:

More of the same sick bed, but my cabin mates started referring to me as The Cadaver, so I got myself up for dinner. Nice chow, and nice to eat again. It was New Year’s Eve, and big parties were planned ashore, but I turned in after dinner – until all of the boats horns went off a midnight. I thought a cruise ship was running aground in tiny Bimini harbor.


Day 7:

With the vast majority of the last sixty hours in a live aboard rack, I was even more grateful than ever that I’d brought the camping pad with those darling little bumps. My personal crud started breaking up, and I made it out on the main deck much of the day. Everyone wished me well, and hoped I get some more diving in, but as bad as I felt, and with the winds and currents we’d had all week, I feared being unable to dive safely – for myself and others around. There were some super dives done over the last three days of the trip, just not by me.

The trip was then winding up, and were preparing for a smoother crossing back. I’m sure every crew is different, but I’ll brag on ours as other posters have theirs. Each one of them made the trip much nicer for all of us. The boats seem to be wearing out after over twenty five years of passenger service, and some of the repairs to repairs aren’t holding. After the ladderway in our cabin almost fell, they reattached it, but in a way that made it bang by two ladies bunks every time it was opened, closed, opened, and closed per customer. Pretty casual outfit overall, but fun folks.

My British cabin mate took the helm for the whole trip as far as the harbor’s mouth where one of the skippers took over for after midnight parallel docking with a tight approach – really quite the show, followed by party boats coming by every 15 minutes for a couple more hours.


Day 8:

My one day in shorts! No wind in the harbor.

Customs and Immigration were expected around 7am but didn’t show until after 8. This was a problem in that the boat had a 9am fueling appointment, but the intense docking from the wee hours broke the transmission cable, so all deadlines were pushed back. I had planned a 2:10pm departure in case of delayed returns, so I took my sweet time getting cleaned up, packed, and away. The warm goodbyes to all of the other passengers and the crew were not to be missed, even if the stay-in-touch promises are seldom kept. Recreational diving is a small world, and paths do recross.

I was going to sleep on the planes back, but I learned that the fellow in the next seat on the first flight is a Key West Scuba Instructor for our Army’s Special Forces. Next flight.

Would I go again? Oh, yeah probably? I can get cheaper planes and much better weekend boats in Southern California in the summer, tho, and better land based diving deals with comfortable hotels many other places, so only time will tell. Personal experience has given me an even better idea of what to expect.
 
Hi Don,

welcome back. It seems like you had an interesting trip.

Laurens
 
Just wondering. Who was your captain. I'm thinking you were on Morning Star. As Pirates Lady is in Bahama's. Might be wrong though.

To bad you got sick. I've seen others get Sunburned badly too. Or, Well, Umm, To much inbations..... :wink:

I've been on Morning Star. It has the best compressor set up of the 3. But Pirates Lady has a water maker. So that would be my favorite so far.

I forgot the timing. But the built one boat. Then a second 2-3 years later. Then the Third 2-3 years later. And yea. They have taken a beating. But then again. They go out pretty much every week. Lot of people on them boats...
 
You should have gone in the summertime Don! They stow the sails and set up a nice sunshade amidships. And the water temp's warmer, so you don't need to fuss with those stinkin' wetsuits. And since the seas are much calmer and the weather nicer, most folks spend their time up on deck, rather than in the cramped "cabins".

I had no idea the Pirate's Lady had a "water maker". They sure didn't have one in 2003, unless you count the condensate recyclers from the air conditioning. You're not supposed to drink that stuff, but its great for rinse-offs and impromptu showers!
 
Glad you recovered and at least got some diving in. I have always thought that Blackbeards might be a choice for the younger set. Now I know that its true.
 
Wow, Don, what a week for you! Sorry you got so sick. We had a cadaver on our boat, too, she slept in the forward cabin for the entire week, save for the one shark dive. Poor thing.
I am absolutely shocked that they would allow a (very) pregnant diver on their boat. I wonder of they made her sign one of those mile-long waivers? Why would they allow that? Sheesh!
I did my trip in November, and the crossing was almost as rough. I will totally do it again, but will probably do it in summer.
Too bad you missed out on lots of the diving, Don, it's some good stuff down there.
 
welcome back Don- Hope you feel better now. What a shame to miss diving, but a very sensible decision for you to take.
I was amused by your story of your lady buddy and the navigation back to boat- I have been in a similar situation as you with someone being grumpy at me for taking over the navigation responsibilites mid-dive when he did not know which direction to go (and we had agreed pre-dive that he was to be navigator) and winding up back at the boat 'too early', and then having them on their next dive with their 'new' buddy come up on a mooring ball down current. I know we shouldn;t giggle, but sometimes fate has a way.

anyway- interesting trip report, thanks for posting.
 
I'm guessing you wont fess up to the lady diver's name, just due to courtousy (sp?). Sorry you got sick, i joined you in that last week, missed a little diving, but not much and certainly not as expensive - one day i will make a foreign diving trip, one day :wink:
 
Happy New Year to everyone!

I know I've been away from the board for a while, but I had to put my two cents in on this Blackbeard trip with the Sea Explorer.

This being my first experience with a warm water dive trip on a sailing boat - I have nothing to compare with. So my comments may be a complete 180 to Dons. I personally had a great time, minus the horrible flight and delays to the boat, and the 15' swells on the crossing. I would have liked to have seen more of the Bahamas and not remained around one island. But weather controls a lot - so perhaps my only negative comment would be to do this trip in better weather conditions... summertime!

Yes the cabins were small, even for someone my size. But this was a diving trip so the focus was not on spending much time down there but more time on deck or in the water. I've seen some liveaboards with huge cabins, but then the price is also more. So I guess you pay for what you get, but since I had no expectations everything was acceptable. Except for the bruises I kept giving myself - climbing into my upper bunk. The food was great, and there was plenty of it. The crew were definately awesome and made the trip so enlightening. I had two great buddies (M & T). And the dives each had a story to tell of their own. For putting that many folks together on a 65' sailboat for a week and having everyone get along so well - I was impressed.

I will definately do a trip like this again.

If money is no object and you prefer more comfortable quarters - perhaps this is not for you. I like camping and this was just a little above camping comforts.

Now I am going through withdrawels from diving three times a day for a week. I need to put on my 7mm now and go hit the PNW Waters.

=) Got Air?
 
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