Bound for Sudan's Red Sea

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teksimple

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Scuba Instructor
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Greets all from a new member...

In a few weeks I will be boarding a liveaboard in Port Sudan, assuming that my visa comes through. Apparently visas for U.S. citizens have been especially delayed. I suspect it is because of the recent political situation.

From what I hear, the Red Sea off Sudan blows most everything in Egypt away as far as uncrowded, pristine reefs. I am not sure, then, why hundreds of times more people dive liveaboards out of Egypt when it is hardly much more expensive to go to Sudan? Are there security concerns?

Anyway, hoping to hear from members about their experiences of diving off Sudan. I am bringing some expensive video equipment. Need I fear the equipment making it through customs? Any marine life highlights from your previous trips?

Thanks in advance...

- Kent
 
Congratulations Kent

I have met several US citizens in Port Sudan. There are a few actually working in Sudan and many of them go to the Red Sea coast on holidays. But it is of course not the every day tourist location. Only in the last years it has opened up. Before it was quite some work to get a tourist visa. Today it is much easier, you can actually get it on arrival in Port Sudan. However for americans I can imagine a bit more paperwork is neccessary due to politics.

The quality of the diving is world class. Even though Egypt has some world class locations, they do not have the diversity and quantity of marine life as the best in Sudan. Time of year is however very important. I preffer the spring when many of the reefs in Sudan are a real shark cirkus. Depending on when you go, you will not be alone on some of the more famous reefs. I belive there are now 15-20 liveaboards operating from Port Sudan. But it will not be crowded. And chances are good that your boat will be the only one in sight for part of the trip, considering you go north from Sha'ab Rumi to Angarosh etc. or south into the Suakin island group.

The reason for many to not go to Sudan is that it actually is quite a bit more expensive. You can go to Brother Islands in Egypt for peanuts from Europe. Going to Port Sudan involves an extra flight, extra hotel nights, tourist/dive tax ... It adds up compared to a dive trip to Egypt. Also I think there are some security concerns. Real or imagined I will leave for each and every one to decide.

You do not need to worry about your video-equipment. The customs will do a thorough search of your luggage, but it is not a problem. Sudan has been a destination primarily for UW-photographers and video-graphers. They are used to it. I have brought UW-camera equipment several times and friends have brought video-equipment.

However, do not bring any alcoholic beverages, as sharia laws apply and Sudan is a 'dry' country. If you'd like a beer or a glass of wine in the evening, you can usually buy it on the liveaboard.

Highlights, hmm, let's see: a whaleshark, numerous manta rays and mobula rays, schooling hammerheads (40-50), grey reef sharks that come in 'very' close, silvertips, silky sharks, oceanic white tip, huge barracuda and jack schools, dolphins uw, schooling bumphead parrotfish (uw-buffalo herd) beautiful undamaged and unbleached coral etc. The whale shark was a one time lucky experience, don't count on it, but the other stuff is more common. But is is of course wild life, and conditions during your specific trip will affect what you encounter. And then, of course the famous s/s Umbrea if you are into wrecks. Sha'ab Rumis south plateaux is always very good, but can be a real mind bender even for the well travelled, seasoned diver, concerning you have the right conditions. Angarosh is also a favourite with plenty of various sharks (Angarosh is a version of 'Um El Kurush' which translates to 'Mother of Sharks') and astonishing soft coral. It is however very weather dependent.

There are places in the world who have more sharks, better viz., nicer soft coral, bigger schools of fish more wrecks etc. But the beauty of the Sudanese Red Sea is that it has everything in a very nice combination, which makes it unique. In the fall you can see the manta dance in the Mesharifa Channel, which was discovered by Hans Hass in the late 40's and then 'rediscovered' by your fellow countrymen Dr. Peter Vine in 1979, if my memory serves me right.

Here are some pictures I have taken in Sudan:

http://www.dykarna.nu/photoAlbum/album.asp?userId=4389&albumId=1112

Please don't hesitate to contact me if you want some more info.

/christian
 
Fantastic photo, Christian!

May I ask what specific equipment you use?

My visa just came through yesterday! It took three weeks, which is apparently twice as long as it has been taking with other nationalities. I have lived in Kuwait for a while, so am familiar with the sharia laws.

I am going in the middle of November, but it is a shame that its won't be the time for the shark circus. Hopefully there will be some. Maybe if I carry a ripened tuna head in my BC pocket I might be able to generate a circus of my own :) I am only slightly kidding.

Thanks for the tips, Christian.

- Kent
 
Thank's Kent. Those pictures were taken with quite simple equipment: A MMIIEX with dual YS60:s, a 20 or 16 wa-lens and a optical wiev finder as aid. Fuji 100ASA provia slide and 100 Reala printfilm. Have sold that stuff now, before I have to throw it at somebody to get rid of it. Going digital, but haven't decided on what to get yet.

You will see sharks, guaranteed. They are there but will normally go a bit deeper. In mid november however, the water temperature will start to drop. By how much varies from year to year. Also you might get some cooler currents sweeping across the plateaux if you are lucky.

With some fish you will get close to the sharks (30 cm / 1 foot) (not kidding). There has/are clearly baiting going on on Sha'ab Rumi. Some skippers don't do it, others has it on the program if the guests should so wish. With video there will be no point, you will come close enough anyway. Stills are different story. I believe it is prohibited by Sudanese marine conservation laws, which actually are quite strict. I.e. they were one of the first countries in the world to regulate spear fishing.

What boat are you on?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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