Brinyte DIV10 "3000 Lumen" Canister light Review

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They are all I can find in US. My original gold is to change them to Agro type of glands, but I can't find them in Metric in US.


these are pretty close to AGRO McMaster-Carr or AerosUSA | Syntec

Submersible cord grips - top right (continuous flex serie )
 
First, the cable I tried. They are SJOOW 300V 2 wire Rubber water resistant cable. Upper cable (bigger) is 14 gauge. it $0.83/ft at HomeDepo. Bottom (smaller) is 18 gauge, $0.52/ft. The 14 gauge feels nicer, but too thick to fit the canister side. I used 18 gauge one. You can see full marking on the cable.
Cable 1.jpgCable 2.jpg

Goodman handle width vs Light Monkey version. LM is one of the most popular canister light. This handle size is probably optimal IMO. LM is 11.5cm (4.5inches) Brinyte is 13cm (5.1inches). Seems small difference, but noticeably bulkier in use.

Sorry, pictures come out upside down. They look OK on my computer.

Photo Dec 23, 9 35 15 AM.jpgPhoto Dec 23, 9 36 16 AM.jpgPhoto Dec 23, 9 37 00 AM.jpg

Cable length. I cut the DIV10 cable to match my stock LM21W HID. Here is the LM measurement. Over length, from end of gland to end of gland, 103cm or 40 inches. The stock DIV10 cable is probably another 25cm (1 foot) longer.
Photo Dec 23, 9 31 39 AM.jpgPhoto Dec 23, 9 31 50 AM.jpg

Canister length and belt loop location. As you can see the length of canister is pretty OK. It is shorter than LM 9A canister. For the belt loop, I move the Brinyte's up about 25cm (1 inches). Note the hose clamps are off the groove. And I put inner tube to add friction to the clamp to prevent clamp sliding
Photo Dec 23, 9 39 20 AM.jpg

Here is the Agro gland used in LM light. I want to get them for Brinyte's size, but I can't find them.
Photo Dec 23, 9 30 26 AM.jpg

Hope these show what I have done.
 
Yeah remembering i had to move my belt loop up aswell to get good access to the button.
 
Except circuit board, all brinyte light part can be sell alone:-D

Something strange to dive light producers :

Have you ever thought to make a diving light more open more affordable to the DIY users , more repairable ..... ''open source diving light ''

Even selling your own brand and same time selling parts like drop-in modules , cables , battery packs .

( for less work you would have more traffic and more $$ (you don't have to assembly product ) and also WE have toys to play with )

It looks strange and insane but business line shows opposite :

- that's why have for instance maglite lights so many modders and imitators (even mods for scuba use )

- thats happened with yours Brinyte DIV02 (or TillyTec ? backup light ) which still live many lives under different names (for instance LED One from Ammonite )

- same thing was made at programs branch ( windows 10 will be temporary free 1 year , CAD programs , even photo programs ) or engines (like Harley )

-point is to cover market with your prudust which is quality but same time you have so many options (producer , seller and costumer )
 
Here's an update to my prior posting. I sent my defective light back to Hong Kong and after a ridiculously long postage delay, they received it and issued me a brand new one from their US warehouse in Kentucky. I am waiting for them to refund my return postage and then this will be complete. But now I have a brand new DIV10 light that I no longer need or want. So I am making it available to the SB community before I put it on eBay. The prices have come down to as low as $130 for it, but you could have it from me in 2 days if you're in the US. So make me an offer.
 
I bought this light in Janyary on Ebay ($160 at that time) and used it for 6 dives since then. Now the light doesn't work anymore as it should be. When I close the battery compartment, the light stays on (without having touched the button). Pressing the button a few times turns off the lamp. After it is off, there is no way I can turn it on again. I have to unscrew the battery compartment and close it again to turn it on :S. I cannot use it as it is now...

I contacted the seller on Ebay. He says the warranty is already passed (only 3 months :(). I can only get a refund of 20 dollars...

Does anybody have experience how to open the lamp and get to the electronics? Are the electronics in the lamp part or in the battery part? Do you think you can close it afterwards and make it leaktight again?
 
Hey guys,
What do you thinnk of use light this way in rescue?
View attachment 212645
No way as reliable as a rescue light should be.. :/

---------- Post added September 13th, 2015 at 09:40 PM ----------

I bought this light in Janyary on Ebay ($160 at that time) and used it for 6 dives since then. Now the light doesn't work anymore as it should be. When I close the battery compartment, the light stays on (without having touched the button). Pressing the button a few times turns off the lamp. After it is off, there is no way I can turn it on again. I have to unscrew the battery compartment and close it again to turn it on :S. I cannot use it as it is now...

I contacted the seller on Ebay. He says the warranty is already passed (only 3 months :(). I can only get a refund of 20 dollars...

Does anybody have experience how to open the lamp and get to the electronics? Are the electronics in the lamp part or in the battery part? Do you think you can close it afterwards and make it leaktight again?
The electronics is in the top part of the battery canister.. and is all glued together.. possible to get into it, but you will _most likely_ ruin the canister.. (have taken apart one so i know.)
 
No way as reliable as a rescue light should be.. :/

---------- Post added September 13th, 2015 at 09:40 PM ----------


The electronics is in the top part of the battery canister.. and is all glued together.. possible to get into it, but you will _most likely_ ruin the canister.. (have taken apart one so i know.)

That doesn't sound good. Were you able to fix it? Why did you open the canister?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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