CHDK is not an option

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bullshark

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If you have a Canon compact camera CHDK is not an option, it's a neccessity.

The fact is
: It costs you nothing to have it or own it or install it. It doesn't actually do anything unless you want it to. When you need it (and you will) there is no other solution.

Best first purpose: Override shutterspeed or aperture.

In most compact cameras, you can shoot in manual mode selecting shutter and aperture as you wish and the camera still operates the flash in TTL mode. That is, regardless of your manual settings, the camera will fire and quench the flash for the "best" possible exposure; it will seek a balanced exposure by expertly controlling the flash output.

Experienced shooters take advantage of this (when possible) by selecting an aperture appropriate for the subject, then shooting at several ascending/descending shutterspeeds. Camera TTL logic keeps the subject correctly exposed and rolling through shutterspeeds varies the exposure of the background. This is how to easily obtain just the right amount of detail in the background, or even make it black.

Unfortunately most Canon compact cameras don't do this. CHDK to the rescue.

Example: Use CHDK to override aperture to F/5.0. Set the exposure program to shutter priority. Set ISO to 100.

Now you can shoot using multiple shutter speeds, say 1/60 through ??? The G11 can synch flash as fast as 1/1000, so that is quite a range. Since you are shooting in a program mode ("Tv"-shutter priority), the camera will use TTL metering to quench the flash, so the foreground exposure will remain constant. The changing shutterspeed will obviously affect only the exposure of the background.

In practice, you may have to adjust that f-stop if the background is not bright enough. Alternatively, you can bump the ISO up to 200 or down to 80. It will depend on your camera and conditions. I chose f/5.0 as a starting point because the lens on the G11 is well-behaved there. Your camera may be different.

Example: Use CHDK to override shutter speed to 1/200. Set the exposure program to aperture priority. Set ISO to 100.

Now you can do the same thing as before only shoot with various apertures while CHDK holds the shutterspeed constant. Again you will have TTL flash (because you are using a program exposure mode). The foreground exposure will remain constant while the background exposure will change according to aperture.

Note that these overrides affect every camera mode, even manual. If they are both on at the same time, then that is all you get!

The shutterspeed override requires two fields: The shutterspeed and the "Value Factor" right below it. The shutterspeed override only works when the "value factor" is one. i.e. "1". The only other possible value is "Off" so in effect it turns the shutterspeed override on and off with one click. <Like this>. <Like this a lot>. I tend to use this mode most often. Importantly, I have found that you need at least this much speed (1/200) to freeze the motion of shrimps and antennae. Left to itself, the Canon software chooses 1/60, and its just not good enough.

On the other hand, The aperture override has a singularly impressive feature. On my G11 It lets me stop down to F/16. In practice this is limited to F/11 but still an improvement where depth of field is important. At this setting, the the Aperture override turns off with one button press also because the CHDK menus are sensibly linked at the ends. One step left of "off" is f/16, and ones step right of f/16 is "off".

So there you have it. TTL flash exposure while varying either shutterspeed or aperture.

Impossible to accomplish without this free software. These methods work best of course with cameras that have external strobes, but still hold true for those of you shooting with internal flash and diffuser. You just won't have as broad a range.

Two important things to note:

One
CHDK software features; ALL of them, can be turned off instantly by setting the first option in "Extra Photo Operations" to "On". I positively hate that this field is called "Disable Overrides" and that the the choices are "On", "Off" and "Disable". Exactly what are you disabling, eh? Suffice to say​
  • "Off" and the overrides work.​
  • "On" and the overrides are disabled, not working, not overriding.​
  • "Disable" has exactly the opposite effect that you would expect. It disables the disabling of overrides, so they work!​
Stick to On and Off.

Two
The [currently] fourteenth feature in the "Extra Photo Operations" menu is:

Clear override values@start

By default, CHDK sets this feature sets this feature to "true"/On/selected. As a result, all the settings you select will be forgotten everytime you power on the camera.

Unless you want to go insane every time you splash, turn this "feature" off. Tell CHDK that you want it to work. Tell CHDK that you will "Disable overrides" when you want all the cool stuff to stop working! Tell CHDK that you want it to remember all your settings: turn this off.

 
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You've made my head hurt. I'll have to study this . . . .


Thanks for posting!
 
The only problematic issue that I've encountered with my Canon A570IS using CHDK is that write times to the card are rather slow.
When configured to save photos as RAW + JPG, it can take 10-12 seconds before the camera is ready to take another shot. Presumably, this has to do with the combination of a limited memory write buffer, the rather large size of the RAW file, and the time it takes to write two separate graphics files.
I experimented with faster speed SDHC cards and the shot-to-shot lag is reproducible even with good quality class 10 cards.

Despite this issue, I still prefer to use CHDK on my camera. It's so much more configurable, as bullshark pointed out.
 
When configured to save photos as RAW + JPG, it can take 10-12 seconds before the camera is ready to take another shot.

Not really part of the thread, but I don't understand why anyone shoots RAW+JPG. It's a whole other topic but I just don't see the utility. I'd be interested to know what your reason is.

You didn't say how long it takes your camera to write RAW+JPG without CHDK.

Are you using the DNG feature?

[note: far from an expert in CHDK, I'm just curious since I see no such ill effects]
 
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Not really part of the thread, but I don't understand why anyone shoots RAW+JPG. It's a whole other topic but I just don't see the utility. I'd be interested to know what your reason is.
To be honest, it's an issue of making post-processing more efficient time-wise. The majority of my UW photos are macro shots which require the use of the internal flash. Such shots are properly exposed and the JPGs look just fine, so I simply toss the RAW (CRW) files. The RAW file only becomes useful if I'd like to spend a significant amount of time tweaking the photos. White balancing can be better with the RAW file vs. JPG.
You didn't say how long it takes your camera to write RAW+JPG without CHDK.
My A570IS doesn't shoot in RAW while using the stock manufacturer's firmware.
That's one of the reasons I like using CHDK...to gain access to the RAW (CRW) files.
Are you using the DNG feature?
No. DNG options increase the write time even more. I convert the CRW file to DNG as the first step in post-processing.
 
I'm not sure I'm ready to hack my G11. Is it really worth it? I've just gotten used to using the flash in manual mode.
 
I'm not sure I'm ready to hack my G11. Is it really worth it? I've just gotten used to using the flash in manual mode.
If CHDK provides useful options for you, then it's worth a try.
FYI, CHDK doesn't permanently alter anything on your camera. Think of it as an alternative firmware that you can choose to load into the camera's memory.

CHDK can be set up to automatically run upon start-up of the camera. Alternatively, it can be run on-command by selecting it as a menu option.
The CHDK scripts "live" on the memory card. If you switch out the memory card to one which lacks the CHDK files and start up the camera, then no more CHDK.
 
My A570IS doesn't shoot in RAW while using the stock manufacturer's firmware.
That's one of the reasons I like using CHDK...to gain access to the RAW (CRW) files.

Your not gaining access. CHDK is creating and storing something your camera doesn't support. It's not really CHDK's fault that writing RAW+JPG takes 10 seconds. To be fair, it is infinitely faster than your camera alone[at writing RAW+JPG].

That's a pretty significant speed up, and serves to underline my point that when you need it, you need it.

Just be sure, my camera does support RAW file capture, as well as RAW+JPG [which still makes no sense to me, unless as in your case, you have no choice]. Loading CHDK has no impact that I can detect on write cycles; it is completely a function of RAW or not, and then captured jpg image size dominates the time equation.

Were I in your place, I would toss the jpgs and keep the RAW; always. All photos, JPG or not, need editing, cropping and/or sizing. The JPG (even the first) is just an estimate of the RAW file image. Why would you prefer hearsay evidence to facts?

Canon has a Codec that allows you to view CR2 files without processing, as long as you have 32-bit windows. iMacs have a codec too. If you have 64-bit windows, you have to buy the codec here.
 
I'm not sure I'm ready to hack my G11. Is it really worth it?

As the OP sates in the beginning, its costs you nothing.

You are not hacking anything. CHDK is just a data file that goes on your memory card. When you turn on your camera, CHDK only loads if you want it to. In the case of the G11, you lock the memory card. That makes the camera load CHDK. If the memory card is not locked (normal mode), then the camera does not load CHDK.

Nothing in your camera is changed in any way.
None of the cameras menus change in any way*.
In fact pressing the Menu button will display the same menu it always did and it will work the same way.
Format the card and CHDK is gone.
Take out the memory card and CHDK is gone.
No one will ever know and it doesn't matter anyway because CHDK doesn't hurt or change anything.

*[in some cameras (not yours) there will be a new menu item in the standard Canon menus, to load CHDK]

CHDK (AFAIK) uses the camera built in firmware like a BIOS in your computer. It does what it does by issuing commands to the canon firmware to accomplish the jobs. It doesn't replace the firmware, it just plays a supervisory role.

I've just gotten used to using the flash in manual mode.

All I can say is "Eeeeeewwwwwwwwww".

There is no way to use the flash underwater in manual mode reliably.
The crude three-step flash power control is useless and practically cripples external strobes. You're essentially sawing down a tree with an unstarted chain-saw.

Sure, you can memorize a setting or even a couple of combinations that will work in a specific circumstance with an average composition, but you have little or no artistic control. As soon as you have an unusual setting or subject, you're hosed. That fancy camera you bought has TTL exposure metering and EV step control for fine tuning. If you don't want to use it, go ahead. Underwater subjects do not wait for you to look things up in a mental or written table.

closeup (1 of 1).jpg

In the words of the inimitable Austrians Hanz and Franz: Listen to me now but hear me later:

The only people that don't use TTL flash metering U/W either don't have it, or don't "get it".

The instant someone starts talking that "real-men-shoot-manual-flash" trash, walk away like they're talkin' deep-air.
 
Your not gaining access. CHDK is creating and storing something your camera doesn't support. It's not really CHDK's fault that writing RAW+JPG takes 10 seconds. To be fair, it is infinitely faster than your camera alone[at writing RAW+JPG].
I don't have access to RAW (CRW) files if I do not load CHDK and make the proper shooting selection: CRW or CRW + JPG.
From what I understand, the camera's original firmware is set up to take the raw light information and automatically convert it into a JPG file.
The CRW file is a transformation of that light information.
There are two phases of camera function that are responsible for the 10 second shot-to-shot delay which I'm experiencing: (1) transformation of raw to CRW and (2) write time to the memory card for both CRW + JPG files. I suspect the latter is eating up the lion's share of shot-to-shot time.
Shooting with the original camera firmware, which results in JPG files, is very snappy (1.0-1.5 seconds in shot-to-shot time?).
Just be sure, my camera does support RAW file capture, as well as RAW+JPG [which still makes no sense to me, unless as in your case, you have no choice]. Loading CHDK has no impact that I can detect on write cycles; it is completely a function of RAW or not, and then captured jpg image size dominates the time equation.
You own a Canon G11 which has different hardware and firmware specs than my Canon A570IS.
Were I in your place, I would toss the jpgs and keep the RAW; always. All photos, JPG or not, need editing, cropping and/or sizing. The JPG (even the first) is just an estimate of the RAW file image. Why would you prefer hearsay evidence to facts?
Given my needs, workflow is faster with JPG files. Moreover, my operating system (Mac) allows me to view thumbnails of JPGs but not CRW files. It makes it much easier to locate photos than to fire up Aperture, Lightroom, etc.

For the vast majority of UW macro shots I take, the quality of the JPG is a "good enough" result. I suppose if I had unlimited hard drive space, had extra time to work with every RAW file, and didn't mind the extra time it took to backup lots of photos, I would just shoot in RAW.

We're talking about photos here. I'm very casual/low maintenance when it comes to photography. I don't want to spend a lot of time manipulating images on a computer. I'd rather be doing something else.
 

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