Choosing dive gear as a new diver

[Dive Right In Scuba.]

Veterans of ScubaBoard have seen the threads many times. A new diver starts a thread asking questions about some dive package being offered or just asking questions in general about what gear to purchase. I thought I would just offer a few of my own opinions and leave it for others to add theirs in the hope that we can do some good.

1. In most cases, there is no benefit to buying what some people consider to be "beginner gear." The kind of gear worn by more advanced divers is no harder to use than gear associated with beginning divers and, in many cases, it is easier to use. (That is especially true of buoyancy control devices.) With few exceptions, the "advanced" gear does not cost any more. Scuba gear does not wear out easily, so you will not replace your "beginner gear" with more advanced stuff when it wears out. Be very wary of a sales person telling you that some equipment is for advanced divers only; that is true in only a few cases.

2. With few exceptions, the gear from all the major brands are of good quality. Some are made in the same factory on the same equipment as another brand. Look more at design and features than brand. Pick the designs and features you want both now and in the future. As I said before, the gear will last a long time, so try to think about the kind of diving you will do in the future. As a new diver, that may be difficult, but you can make good choices if you get good advice and read a lot. ScubaBoard forums like this are good for getting an idea of where you want to go with your diving. Read the threads started by others and start your own when you can't find what you want to know.

3. Following up on #2, you can be fooled into thinking that some of what seem to be more advanced features on some gear, especially computers, will be useful in the future. When you see a feature you don't understand, ask when that would ever be useful and then wonder when you would ever use it in your own diving. Don't pay for bells and whistles you will never need.

4. Some gear choices are controversial, and when you read online discussions about them, you will encounter people with strongly held opinions. Hot button topics include split fins, integrated alternate air sources, air integrated computers, etc. Having a strong opinion does not make someone a real expert. Read carefully and make good judgments. What one person hates might be something you will love.

4. Be wary of a salesperson pushing specific models as being "the best." It is a tactic often used to steer customers to models with the highest profit margin. A similar model sitting a few feet away might fit your needs better and be every bit as good as the one you are being steered to buy.

 

[Colliam7]

A very reasonable, thoughtful post.

 

[lerpy]

Great post, good things to consider when looking to get your first gear. I was told when I started diving, rent gear and go dive. See what people are using, rent different types, makes, models, and see what you are comfortable with before running out and buying gear.

 

[STATDIVER]

I was actually going to make my own post asking some "new diver gear" questions, but maybe I'll just add it on to here.

I'm slowly putting together some of my own gear. I have a bcd. I'm using a HOG classic octo with a black HOG zenith, but I'm currently looking for the rest...SPG, Compass, computer etc.

I've recently seen a pretty attractive deal for the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1 with compass. It "looks" like a pretty high tech computer as opposed to what I trained with (mares puck), but at a price point of 380 or so, by the time I think of getting a puck (for example)..that's 180, plus say 120 for a two gauge spg console, plus 50 or so for a decent compass...that's about 350 for that set up. So for 30 bucks more, the large display of the Pro plus 2.1 along with having everything streamlined into the console, makes the Pro Plus 2.1 kind of attractive. Just trying to get the best bang for the buck I guess. In terms of wrist vs console for computers, I haven't really used a console computer (all of my dives have either been with a wrist, or without a computer using tables), but I don't really see where having a console computer would be inconvenient for me, especially in this case with the large display etc.

Anyone have any suggestions/comments on this computer as a first computer? Does it just look more "high tech" than it really is? I do notice that it has air integration with the computer, so is an extra analog pressure gauge a must have item when using something like this, or are they pretty tough devices?

Just as a comparison, in terms of a console computer, I've also been looking at the Oceanic Veo 2.0 3 gauge swiv console, which is about 100 bucks cheaper than the oceanic pro plus 2.1. Trying to determine whether the pro plus is worth the extra money with this being my first set of gear I guess.

I want to get a good solid set of gear initially that will last, but I don't want to "over gear" myself. As far as my skill level, I'm OW certified, about 18 dives. I plan to do the AOW course later this year, and my wife and I plan to take at least one vacation/destination per year (maybe 6-10 dives), and other than that, there are a few quarries and lakes nearby that we plan to frequent, as well as weekend trips to florida springs or something like that. I guess I'm saying all of that to give an idea of plans for dive regularity...all in all, for now, I would prob top out at around 24 dives per year or so maybe.

 

[rongoodman]

I'd forget the whole idea of a console and get you computer onto your right wrist. If you want a compass, put it on your left wrist. Hang a bare SPG on a relatively short LP hose--you don't need a console dangling down, dragging a furrow through the coral, with big loop of hose bulging out on your side.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

I was actually going to make my own post asking some "new diver gear" questions, but maybe I'll just add it on to here.

I'm slowly putting together some of my own gear. I have a bcd. I'm using a HOG classic octo with a black HOG zenith, but I'm currently looking for the rest...SPG, Compass, computer etc.

I've recently seen a pretty attractive deal for the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1 with compass. It "looks" like a pretty high tech computer as opposed to what I trained with (mares puck), but at a price point of 380 or so, by the time I think of getting a puck (for example)..that's 180, plus say 120 for a two gauge spg console, plus 50 or so for a decent compass...that's about 350 for that set up. So for 30 bucks more, the large display of the Pro plus 2.1 along with having everything streamlined into the console, makes the Pro Plus 2.1 kind of attractive. Just trying to get the best bang for the buck I guess. In terms of wrist vs console for computers, I haven't really used a console computer (all of my dives have either been with a wrist, or without a computer using tables), but I don't really see where having a console computer would be inconvenient for me, especially in this case with the large display etc.

Anyone have any suggestions/comments on this computer as a first computer? Does it just look more "high tech" than it really is? I do notice that it has air integration with the computer, so is an extra analog pressure gauge a must have item when using something like this, or are they pretty tough devices?

Just as a comparison, in terms of a console computer, I've also been looking at the Oceanic Veo 2.0 3 gauge swiv console, which is about 100 bucks cheaper than the oceanic pro plus 2.1. Trying to determine whether the pro plus is worth the extra money with this being my first set of gear I guess.

I want to get a good solid set of gear initially that will last, but I don't want to "over gear" myself. As far as my skill level, I'm OW certified, about 18 dives. I plan to do the AOW course later this year, and my wife and I plan to take at least one vacation/destination per year (maybe 6-10 dives), and other than that, there are a few quarries and lakes nearby that we plan to frequent, as well as weekend trips to florida springs or something like that. I guess I'm saying all of that to give an idea of plans for dive regularity...all in all, for now, I would prob top out at around 24 dives per year or so maybe.

For just recreational diving there's nothing wrong with the Puck it's a pretty good value at $170. But whatever you pick I'd go with something that can be put on your wrist.
I'm also in the camp of placing everything on my wrists. I've had several consoles on and off. Like so many, I started/was trained with one, then went to wrist instruments later, then got a box free gear which included several consoles so I tried one again, but then didn't like it and went back, and so forth.
I finally decided that for me it's most convenient to have all my info on my wrists and a basic SPG on my left hip D-ring on my bc waist strap. To check tank pressure I just tilt up the gauge and take a glance down to see it, or some people unclip it, but I have mine set so I can see it without having to do that.
My compass goes on my left wrist and computer on right wrist. This is about the most basic and clean/streamlined solution I've been able to come up with so far.
Part of the problem I found with consoles was it was hard to stowe them without them hanging down a little and catching on things, and it was a pain to have to constantly unclip them to use the compass. I've tried to use them without any clips and just stuff them under the front part of my waist strap on my BC but they're bulky and hard to slide under or pull out. Some people put them on a retractor, but I saw you mentioned you didn't want to over gear yourself, and when you start adding gizmo's like retractors they don't always work well. They can unwind without you knowing it when cruising along and can get caught and tangled on stuff. Simpler is better in scuba.
Have your stuff clipped and stowed tight to your body and you'll never scratch up/damage your equipment or the reef.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

4. Some gear choices are controversial, and when you read online discussions about them, you will encounter people with strongly held opinions. Hot button topics include split fins, integrated alternate air sources, air integrated computers, etc. Having a strong opinion does not make someone a real expert. Read carefully and make good judgments. What one person hates might be something you will love.

4. Be wary of a salesperson pushing specific models as being "the best." It is a tactic often used to steer customers to models with the highest profit margin. A similar model sitting a few feet away might fit your needs better and be every bit as good as the one you are being steered to buy.

I think an important thing that people with strong opinions (I am one of them) is why do they have such strong opinions. What benefits/tradeoffs have they made? For some of the controversial topics (I won't hijack the thread or cause it to be hijacked by mentioning them), I try to give that information. Whomever reads that advice may be a similar or completely different diver than me, so things I do have no value to them or quite a bit.

As far as "the best", again, why? What is it about its construction that is so different? Materials? Warranty? Ease of service internationally? We all get the idea.

I think the smart shops have people who are motivated to make happy divers. Unhappy divers don't come back. Or worse: they stop diving.

---------- Post added January 3rd, 2016 at 08:36 PM ----------

I was actually going to make my own post asking some "new diver gear" questions, but maybe I'll just add it on to here.

I'm slowly putting together some of my own gear. I have a bcd. I'm using a HOG classic octo with a black HOG zenith, but I'm currently looking for the rest...SPG, Compass, computer etc.

I've recently seen a pretty attractive deal for the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1 with compass. It "looks" like a pretty high tech computer as opposed to what I trained with (mares puck), but at a price point of 380 or so, by the time I think of getting a puck (for example)..that's 180, plus say 120 for a two gauge spg console, plus 50 or so for a decent compass...that's about 350 for that set up. So for 30 bucks more, the large display of the Pro plus 2.1 along with having everything streamlined into the console, makes the Pro Plus 2.1 kind of attractive. Just trying to get the best bang for the buck I guess. In terms of wrist vs console for computers, I haven't really used a console computer (all of my dives have either been with a wrist, or without a computer using tables), but I don't really see where having a console computer would be inconvenient for me, especially in this case with the large display etc.

Anyone have any suggestions/comments on this computer as a first computer? Does it just look more "high tech" than it really is? I do notice that it has air integration with the computer, so is an extra analog pressure gauge a must have item when using something like this, or are they pretty tough devices?

Just as a comparison, in terms of a console computer, I've also been looking at the Oceanic Veo 2.0 3 gauge swiv console, which is about 100 bucks cheaper than the oceanic pro plus 2.1. Trying to determine whether the pro plus is worth the extra money with this being my first set of gear I guess.

I want to get a good solid set of gear initially that will last, but I don't want to "over gear" myself. As far as my skill level, I'm OW certified, about 18 dives. I plan to do the AOW course later this year, and my wife and I plan to take at least one vacation/destination per year (maybe 6-10 dives), and other than that, there are a few quarries and lakes nearby that we plan to frequent, as well as weekend trips to florida springs or something like that. I guess I'm saying all of that to give an idea of plans for dive regularity...all in all, for now, I would prob top out at around 24 dives per year or so maybe.

I actually have the Oceanic Pro Plus 2.1 and have been thinking of selling it. It has served me well when I started 2 years ago. Now that I dive with a wrist computer and AI, it sits in my save a dive kit. I'll send you a PM.

 

[drrich2]

Some points to add. When buying into a field they don't know well, people often hedge their bets by buying a popular brand name and a more expensive model. This will often yield a good product, but it may be one grossly over-priced for what you'll get out of it.

Some regulators are much more expensive than the mainstream, with a 'selling point' that they use more titanium (a light-weight, rust-proof metal) to trim some weight down. Nice, but how many hundreds of dollars is that worth for a regulator that may well 'breathe' the same as a cheaper model in their line for you?

I don't own any Halcyon gear. I've seen it discussed on the forum, and heard people refer to the high cost as the 'H tax.' Judge for yourself.

One piece of gear that's not always suggested as part of a gear package ensemble, but probably should be, is the SMB (surface marker buoy, or 'safety sausage'). At the surface in the ocean, your head doesn't stick up far, and fairly small waves can hide you at a distance. IIRC sound doesn't always carry as far as you'd hope, so while having a whistle on a D-ring isn't a bad idea, don't bet your life on it. An inflatable SMB (ideally with a finger spool, if you want something smaller than a reel, since either will let you send it up from depth) can tell the dive boat where you are.

If, like me, you won't diligently wash & dry dive knives after each dive, you may find they rust on you, and stainless steel dive knives can get expensive. If you want a knife, I recommend either one of the Spyderco H1 steel knives, or a titanium (not titanium-coated; titanium!) knife. An option with replaceable blades that's cheap & very low profile on your BCD webbing is a Trilobite (blades rust but can be replaced). A cutting tool is not a bad idea; if you get tangled in fishing line intended to pull in a struggling marlin, what are your chances?

On dive computers, not everyone values, wants & will pay for the same features. But know what they are, so you can make an informed choice.

1.) Wrist - easily to glance at, no hose. Console - often larger display, and if it's air-integrated you don't need to mess with a wireless transmitter.

2.) Air integration - shows you remaining gas pressure on your computer, instead of looking at an SPG (you can have an analog SPG as a backup if you wish). Computer will likely show you an estimated air-time-remaining (which assumes you stay at your current depth), which is often shorter than your NDL (unless you dive real deep or have great gas consumption). The computer may well log your start & end gas pressures, saving you the bother if you log your dives, and may calculate your SAC rate.

3.) PC Download - some computers not only log your dives, but you can download them to your home computer. With a dive log program, this is a handy way to log dives. You can often see a graph showing your dive profile, like saw-toothed vs. smooth. Often useful when you like to automatically log not just maximum but average depth.

4.) Some computers have user replaceable batteries; some have required you send it in. Former are preferred. Some have built-in rechargeable batteries (e.g.: Atomic Aquatics Cobalt Console; the SeaBear H3). Some computers with big, colorful screens go through batteries way too fast for my taste (e.g.: LiquiVision Lynx judging from what I've read); I don't like frequently opening & closing a compartment that needs a tight seal at over 100 feet salt water!

5.) Some dive computer companies have a strong reputation for customer service, and some...less so.

6.) Wrist units may be in 'wrist watch' or puck (larger) type bodies. The former may have small text, an issue for aging eyes, and while people sometimes ask about wearing it full time as a watch, it's my subjective impression most don't.

7.) The computer's interface can be miserable, like programing a cheap digital wrist watch, or intuitive, like a Cobalt console. A sweet interface matters a lot more than you may think, especially if you dive on one or two trips/year & won't remember how to work it (e.g.: You're about to dive in, realize you didn't set your computer for your nitrox mix but how is that done again?).

Buy a mask. Whatever else you rent, find a mask that fits without significant leaking, buy it & take it in your carry on, not checked baggage. Note brand & model in case you lose it and need to order another. A leaky rental or loaner mask can degrade your trip experience.

Richard.

 

[Dive Right In Scuba.]

As far as "the best", again, why? What is it about its construction that is so different? Materials? Warranty? Ease of service internationally? We all get the idea.

I think the smart shops have people who are motivated to make happy divers. Unhappy divers don't come back. Or worse: they stop diving.

I met an unhappy diver recently. He was looking for some more advanced instruction, and he had become unhappy with the shop with which he had originally trained and from which he had bought a full set of gear. He started to tell me what his gear was, and I stopped him. "Let me guess the rest," I said. And I did. I named every model of major gear he had purchased from a shop that featured a good variety of gear choices.

How was I able to do that? I knew some of the instructors from that shop, and I knew they were required to use that specific setup themselves, and they were required by store policy to tell their students that they had made those choices themselves because that was the best gear, and as instructors they wanted the best. The sales staff was ordered to push that line as well, because it had the best overall profit margin and because if the store sold enough of specific models, the vendor prices on those models would drop.

There is nothing wrong with getting good advice from a competent employee who is truly trying to determine what is best for you; in fact, I suggest it. Just follow wetb4igetinthewater's advice and ask a lot of questions to determine if it really is the best FOR YOU and the diving you plan to do in YOUR future.

 

[Neilwood]

As has been said in other threads advice can often be biased (particularly where money is involved ie shops) so it is always worth seeking a wide variety of opinions, preferably from neutral sources.