Dive container for car keys

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2 About drysuit flood: get a proper one and learn to use it
My initial gut reaction to this was too be pissed at you. Thinking about it, there may be a secret How To Use A Drysuit Such That It Never Fails strategy that I don't know.

When mine leaks / floods, it's usually because of some silly user error. I fix that one for future dives, but have a talent to find others somewhere down the line.

I envy you.
 
I am not 100% sure that a "remote keyless entry system" is a good idea.
Modern physical keys are extraordinarily secure and reliable,
 
I have a friends that recently lost a fob (keyless entry/starter ) for their Subaru Outback. The dealer wants $450 to replace it. They bought a replacement on eBay but can't get it programmed correctly.


I broke a key on my Sprinter Van. It looks like a large key (no buttons or battery) but has to be programmed. It cost me $150 all together almost 10 years ago. I hate to think what a lost fob on a BMW, Mercedes, or Tesla would cost.
:(
I can't count the number of holes I've punched in drysuits in the last 40 years, and less than half of them were commercial diving. Lobster and wreck diving are really tough on suits.
Holes, yes, but how much flooding?
 
My initial gut reaction to this was too be pissed at you.
I have to admit that my comment was provocative. So your reaction would have been ok.

I have met guys, though, who were to blame for all the misery "caused by their drysuit". So this was nothing personal (I do not even know you!) but a general comment on people who do not know what they do.
Thinking about it, there may be a secret How To Use A Drysuit Such That It Never Fails strategy that I don't know.
I'd be happy to know, too. I can minimize leaks, but not remove them.
When mine leaks / floods, it's usually because of some silly user error.
Been there, done that. I have done some silly errors (=not closing the zipper).
I fix that one for future dives, but have a talent to find others somewhere down the line.

I envy you.
Oh, let us envy a third person. Yeah, I can avoid a host of problems, but cannot avoid them all.

Sorry if my words were brutal, I wanted to provoke some discussion.
 

Back to the PLB Housing​

One of my complaints with PLB housings is you end up with a bunch of loose parts that are likely to be lost when opening the housing. One of those parts can be the PLB itself! Think cold water, thick gloves, numb fingers, rising seas, and no boats in sight.

I see you have lanyard holes on the housing lid. What about the bottom? Ideally we need a way of connecting all three pieces together and to the diver. Do you have any provision to connect the PLB inside the housing?
 

Back to the PLB Housing​

One of my complaints with PLB housings is you end up with a bunch of loose parts that are likely to be lost when opening the housing. One of those parts can be the PLB itself! Think cold water, thick gloves, numb fingers, rising seas, and no boats in sight.

I see you have lanyard holes on the housing lid. What about the bottom? Ideally we need a way of connecting all three pieces together and to the diver. Do you have any provision to connect the PLB inside the housing?
JB weld some aluminum washers that are bent 90 degrees to give you a loop perhaps? Would need to be on the lid and bottom of the main tube otherwise the curve of the canister tube would get in the way, so would be hard to get to once its in.
 
Would need to be on the lid and bottom of the main tube

Let's make sure I have this right. There is an outside lanyard hole on the lid. I'm not sure about the bottom. You can secure something to the outside of the bottom with a hose clamp, but a lanyard hole would be nice to secure the lid to it. I guess you can glue something to the inside of the lid for the PLB lanyard.

You should do some temperature cycling (cold water to hot sun) to make sure the adhesive doesn't fail. Can you imagine how PO'd you would be if you went to the expense and trouble to buy a PLB and housing only to drop it as you drift off into open sea?

It seems to me that something needs to be secured to the inside of the lid for the PLB. A connection at the bottom inside of the housing would require tools to reach that far inside to make the connection.

Here is an image of my first PLB housing:

1655768543592.png


The top and bottom screw caps are machined from PVC and the body is polycarbonate tubing. I glued PVC bosses to the inside (after this image was taken) of both caps to connect them together through the tube with parachute line and secured the PLB to it.

I used a hose clamp on the tube itself to secure it to my harness.
 
Yeah, just a thought. But if, big if, you could reasonably trust the washers both inside the tub (one on the inside of the lid and inside on bottom) you could feasibly connect all 3 parts with cave line or something keeping them as one unit with a little slack. then just have the external lanyard hole connecting all 3 items to the diver. But just an idea, not sure it would work. More just spitballing than anything else. That being said I've had pretty good luck with JB Weld holding up to some pretty harsh conditions, so think the heat cycling should be okay, but can't say for certain. Ideally there would be an internal lanyard hole right about where the cap screws on, but since there isn't need something custom to deal with curve. So that's what I was thinking of the floor of the main tube and inside ceiling of the cap.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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