Drysuit ?

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first dry suit purchase. Yes for the rocks and wreck diving/penitration, and I probably can pick from the rack. Will h2o temp. be a deciding factor?
 
Bare Trilam HD Tech Dry

http://barescubadiving.com/usa/drys...ate-drysuits/trilam-hd/trilam-hd-tech-dry.asp

Great suit has tough outershell. Comes with heavy duty wrist and neck seals standard and bout 1/2 the price of DUI. your choice of Attached boots or Rock boots.

Whatever you get make sure you get 2 Attached Lg Pockets and Suspenders.

You can get everything in the suit above around 16-1700 if your able to work a deal Bare also have Lifetime warranty on there suits Seams/Workmanship
 
first dry suit purchase. Yes for the rocks and wreck diving/penitration, and I probably can pick from the rack. Will h2o temp. be a deciding factor?

No that is where your undergarments come in.....:D
 
I would look at innovative dry suits that distinguish themselves from the pack. Whites Fusion is one. Hollis BioDry is another.

I would also be seriously wary of neoprene neck seals. They are not for everyone. I would also advise against DUI zip-seals since they are not practical with dry gloves. DUI CF200 crushed neoprene is great material but you pay dearly for it..

Also Exposure Suits - ScubaBoard is probably better to ask/research.
 
I would also advise against DUI zip-seals since they are not practical with dry gloves.
@hudson: Huh? DUI makes zipseal gloves that work great. They are a little pricey, though. Several of my dive buddies use them and love 'em. I'm not sure if it's possible to mount bayonet-style friction-mounted cuff/dryglove systems (Viking, Diving Concepts, Sitech, etc.) since the zipseal junction might interfere (perhaps that's what you were referring to). An advantage of the DUI zipseal gloves is that there's no hard ring located at the wrist.
 
Huh? DUI makes zipseal gloves that work great. Several of my dive buddies use them and love 'em. It's also probably possible to mount bayonet-style friction-mounted cuff/dryglove systems (Viking, Diving Concepts, Sitech, etc.). An advantage of the DUI zipseal gloves is that there's no hard ring located at the wrist.

Frankly I hate them. You have to put the damn things on before you stick your arms in, and they have a tendency to leak from what I've seen. I much, much prefer my Viking bayonets.
 
Frankly I hate them. You have to put the damn things on before you stick your arms in, and they have a tendency to leak from what I've seen. I much, much prefer my Viking bayonets.
None of the SoCal divers I know who use the DUI zipseal drygloves have ever complained about leaking at the zipseal junction. Then again, they aren't removing them in-between dives either. Too much trouble to do that anyway.

Yes, they leave the drygloves mounted/attached and don the drysuit that way. It's not that big a deal, so long as you set all of your gear up prior to donning the suit.
I think the Viking dryglove system works great. That's what I have...but the DUI zipseal system works, too.
 
I like front entry, latex seals and hard sole boots attached. But that's just me. I've been diving a Northern Diver Cortex for about five years now with those features and the thing is indestructible. I bounce through Jersey wrecks all year 'round in it. Never a problem. I'm a pretty average sized guy so I was able to buy off the rack and still get a pretty good fit. Got a great deal ($ 800 brand, spanking new) at B.T.S.
 
The best suit ever with all the bells and whistles will still suck if it doesn't fit right. FIT is number one.

All suits have their pros and cons. Here are some things that I have picked up. They are in no order and I just typed them as they came to mind. I surely missed some stuff, but this is a good starting point.

Neoprene seals don't seal as long as latex ones. Back zip suits are hard to get into by yourself and also are hard to open in an emergency. Cuff dumps tend to vent gas a bit during valve manipulations. Si-Tech exhaust valves don't last as long as Apex. Get a swivel inlet valve. Get a suit that has double zippers. The outer one takes the stress and prevents the inner zipper from being pulled apart. P valve is a must. Did I mention fit? Real important. Neoprene suits lose their insulating abilities at depth, and are harder to attach pockets to as the glue doesn't really hold well. Rockboots are one more thing to forget, so unless you are doing shore entries, go with a soft bootie with an attached tennis shoe style sole. Lightweight trilaminate suits dry quickly and pack well, are thin, easy to repair, and easy to move around in. The insulation under the suit is easily changed for different conditions. Offset inlet valves make it tough to control both inflaters at the same time (thing a rapid decent while scootering. You might not be there yet, but you might be sooner than you think.) Two pockets on the outer thigh are more versatile than anything else. Stay away from zippers and metal D-rings, velcro closure and bungee loops on the inside are better. Don't forget about the fit. Suspenders are great.

On the inside, wear a wicking baselayer and a good thinsulate (200 or 400g) undergarment. The thinsulate will keep you warm when the suit floods and doesn't need a lot of gas to provide warmth. Make sure that fits too. If you need a custom suit, than you need a custom suit. Don't let someone strong arm you into getting something that isn't just right. Its its not right, its wrong, and you, as a paying customer, deserve the right thing.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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