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Fusion and p-valves -- How to handle the Lycra?

Discussion in 'Exposure Suits' started by TSandM, Mar 30, 2008.

  1. potablewater

    potablewater Solo Diver

    178
    1
    Maybe using Aquaseal for a permanent installation is not a big problem.
    I don't have an issue with not removing the valve after initial installation.
    You have to do it right (no pun intended) though the first time while cutting/installing/glueing. But that's the case anyway.
    So if the Aquaseal does not eat away the bilam, or cause harm to the membrane then what is the problem with it besides being too good a sealant? I hear if you drip it on the
    bilam it will mark it permanently. What kind of silicon can be used, and does it have adhesive properties?

    Thanks for that informative diagram and explanation...it was helpful.

    All the best,
    Geoff
     
  2. LG Diver

    LG Diver DIR Practitioner

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Los Gatos, CA, USA
    581
    0
    This is exactly the process that the owner of my LDS recommends. When I had a discussion with him about p-valve install (this was on a previous suit and not specific to the Fusion) he told me that the process he uses is to cut the hole, spread a decent layer of aquaseal on the p-valve, and screw it on just tight enough to spread the aquaseal. Once it has cured, unscrew the p-valve, apply a layer of silicone, and tighten down to final tightness. This way, the valve is later removable easily and you have a pretty thick 'valve pad' made of aquaseal. Being the lazy bastard that I am, I didn't go this route personally- I just screwed the thing down with aquaseal and let it be, and it's worked fine on both my CF200 and now on the Fusion. Only a couple of dives on the fusion so far, but the p-valve doesn't look like it's going anywhere any time soon. It's on there for keeps.
     
  3. Dive Right In Scuba

    Dive Right In Scuba ScubaBoard Business Sponsor ScubaBoard Business Sponsor

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Plainfield, Illinois, United States
    4,024
    872
    Your 2xl/3xl tech skin with pockets is being built, they just came in :D Shipping to me in about 5 days
     
  4. potablewater

    potablewater Solo Diver

    178
    1
    Mike,
    That's wonderful news! It looks like Whites is going to hit that mid April
    date on the tech skin delivery as they said. I was just getting to really like the lycra
    skin. I hope the tech skin is as flexible. I will use them both as tools for the job at hand.
    Thanks, and please keep me informed.

    All the best,
    Geoff
     
  5. spectrum

    spectrum Dive Bum Wannabe ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: The Atlantic Northeast (Maine)
    11,387
    820
    Fascinating thread. Who would have though that a glorified check valve or 2 would cost more to buy & install than the purchase of a good mid range 1st & 2nd stage regulator.
     
  6. LG Diver

    LG Diver DIR Practitioner

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Los Gatos, CA, USA
    581
    0

    I had the same question and was a bit concerned about the "our suits and Aquaseal are not friends" comment, so I traded some PM's with Brooke, who is the Service Manager at Whites. Below is her response to my questions- she gave me the OK to post her response directly here:

    "Hey John
    My name is Brooke and I am the Service Manager here at Whites.
    The reason we don't want AquaSeal on the suits is two fold. One is it makes a very messy repair and we have spent alot of effort to make DIY repairs easy and glueless. AquaSeal is very toxic and can lead to impotence. Personally I hate the stuff...
    The second reason is if Aquaseal is used on the suit and an in house repair needs to be completed it is virtually impossible to remove the Aquaseal and our glues and tapes etc do not stick/work with AquaSeal...so its remove all traces of AquaSeal at a cost of $80.00 to the end user (above the cost of the repair) or remove / replace the whole piece of material that is AquaSealed at possibly $100's...
    AquaSeal will work but i have had to replace arms and legs on suits because in the process of removing AquaSeal it has lifted the laminate off our suits...So its really to protect the endusers pocket book that we ask...please...no Aquaseal.
    Use Silicone ...plain ol bathroom grade clear silicone...it does the same thing as Aquaseal (minus the impotence)...stops the suit from leaking and if you need to remove the p-valve for any reason the silicone comes right off the inner (smooth bilam) surface of the suits."


    Hopefully this is helpful to others.
     
  7. potablewater

    potablewater Solo Diver

    178
    1
    I discovered this on the WreckDiversSupply.com website under the Halcyon Streamlined P-Valve page, it's a hot button in tiny letters at the bottom of the product discription. I thought it was very informative, and I may go this route, even though the Dive Rite balanced P-valve looks almost like the same design, with the integrated balancing chamber. Any comments on these two choices?
    One thing I noticed on the Halcyon.com site, where I looked for additional info, was the lack of a "quick connect" offered for this valve, I guess it's just another DIR failure point to omit....lol.
    Any pros or cons to "quick connects" ?

    http://www.halcyon.net/manuals/streamline-pvalve_01b_web.pdf

    All the best,
    Geoff
     
  8. Skyjunky

    Skyjunky Contributor

    231
    1
    Well there's a good enough reason to avoid it.
     
  9. Skyjunky

    Skyjunky Contributor

    231
    1
    I bought the easy $7 quick connect.
     
  10. Skyjunky

    Skyjunky Contributor

    231
    1
    Here's my install using silicon glue.

    [​IMG]

    I burned the edges of the lycra with a soldering iron then tried gluing rubber gaskets to both sides of the lycra to prevent future tearing.

    [​IMG]
    Unfortunately the glue didn't take to the lycra.

    So I'll settle with this final version.
    [​IMG]
     

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