By Dan Holden Bailey
The Great Lakes have often been called the lifeblood of the bordering provinces and states. Using this analogy, a lifethreatening narrowing of the arteries occurs at the Straits of Mackinac.
The riverlike Mackinac Straits is an eastwest running stretch of water that connects Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. Fivemilelong Mackinac Bridge spans the Straits, connecting lower Michigan with its upper peninsula.
Only three-and-a half miles wide in some places, the Straits are considered a bottleneck by Great Lakes shipping standards. The immense oceangoing vessels that pass through daily require much more room for safe manoeuvring. Factor in the thick fog banks that frequently cut visibility to near zero, heavy traffic, dangerous shoals, icy conditions in winter, ice floes in late spring, and an occasional gale, and it's not surprising that an estimated 75-100 of the ships that passed this way during the last 300 years never made it through.
The state of Michigan has designated this area the Straits of Mackinac Bottomland Preserve, placing the shipwrecks under the state's protection. There are nine major shipwrecks within the 148 square miles of the preserve, and several more lie just outside its boundaries. Water depth in the Straits reaches 300 feet in some places, but the wrecks that are dived are in the 80-100 foot range.
Each wreck is like a mini museum, displaying craftsmanship and relics of its era. Wooden sailing ships, steam powered ships with both wood and steel hulls, and modern ships of steel are all represented here. The cold freshwater has kept them remarkably well preserved.
One of the Strait's best dives is the brig Sandusky. built in Sandusky, Ohio. This twomasted,110 foot vessel left Chicago on September 16, 1856 with a cargo of grain. Two days later, while passing through the Straits, she foundered in a violent gale and sank with all hands lost. An attempt was made by the sidewheeler Queen City to save three crewmen who were found still clinging to the stricken brig's spar, but they were unable to manoeuvre close enough to take them off in the galeforce seas. Ironically, two members of the Sandusky's crew had deserted ship in Chicago, only to be arrested and forced to return to the doomed ship. Today, this wooden hulled ship sits upright in 90 feet of water. One of her best features, a carved figurehead on the bow, is actually a replica, placed after vandals tried to steal the original.
In May 1965, the Straits claimed its most recent victim, the 588foot Cedarville. This steel freighter, built in 1927, was bound for Gary, Indiana with a cargo of limestone when she was struck amidships by a Norwegian freighter while running in fog. Realizing his ship was mortally damaged, the Cedarville's captain steered for shore in an effort to beach the sinking ship, but it capsized and sank with a loss of ten men. Courts later determined that the Cedarville was overloaded and running too fast for conditions. The gigantic ship came to rest in 110 feet of water, lying on her starboard side, nearly upside down. The upper portion of her hull can be reached at about 35 feet. The mortal gash in her hull leaves little doubt as to why the ship capsized and sank so suddenly. Her name is still emblazoned on both the stern and the bow.
Because it lies in a sheltered area near shore, the C.H. Johnson is often dived during windy conditions. In late September 1895, this 137foot wooden schooner anchored in the shelter of St. Helena Island to ride out a southwest gale. At 2:00 a.m., the anchor chain broke and the ship was swept onto shore. The relentless pounding of waves was more than the helpless ship could bear, and her wood hull quickly began breaking up. The crew was rescued by a fisherman and his two sons, who took them off the sinking ship at great risk to themselves. A local newspaper reported that "The woman cook was nearly dead with cold and fright and had leaped into the fishing boat half naked." The Johnson's remains are scattered about in depths of 1015 feet. Her cargo of eightfoot sandstone blocks, which were meant to be used in construction of a Chicago bank, are still there. This wreck can be dived from shore.
Other popular wrecks include the 218foot propeller William H. Barnum, which foundered and sank in 1873, and now rests at a depth of 74 feet, and the 137foot wooden schooner Maitland, which sank in 1898 after striking ice. In addition to the ship wrecks, there are several places for shore diving. One is at the old docks in the St. Ignace area, which is a small town at the north end of the Mackinac Bridge. Here, divers can often be found scouring the shallow bottom for artifacts dating back to Michigan's colonial days.
LOCATION: The Straits of Mackinac (pronounced MACinaw) separate lower Michigan and its upper peninsula. Detroit, to the southeast, is a five and onehalf hour drive.
LODGING: There are many camping grounds and motels to choose from within minutes of the diving. One hotel that caters to divers, with a divermanager, is the Days Inn. located on the shore of Lake Huron, in St. Ignace, Michigan. Phone 800-732 -9716
DIVE OPERATIONS: Straits Diving is located in St. Ignace. Diving is done from their 42 ft. steel dive boat, theRec Diver,which can accommodate 20 divers. Reservations should be made as early as possible to assure space on the boat, since dive charters run only on weekends. Straits Dive Center: Phone: 906-643-7009, or 8105589922.
DIVING CONDITIONS: Water temperature at depth is in the 4055 degree range, depending on the time of year. Although some divers are comfortable in full 1/4 inch wet suits, many rely on dry suits. Average visibility is 15-25 feet, occasionally reaching 30 feet, and can vary from site to site. Currents are usually no problem, although they are occasionally encountered in the channel areas. Dive sites are in the 15-120 ft. range and are usually less than one hour from the dock.
OTHER AREA ATTRACTIONS: The 19th Century ambience of Mackinac Island in Lake Huron has made it popular with vacationers. There are no cars on the island, except for emergency vehicles. The streets are filled with shoppers and horsedrawn carriages. Captain's Cove Nautical Museum, next door to Straits Diving, is filled with relics from the sailing industry. Nearby Hiawatha National Forest is a perfect wilderness retreat.
Jeff "Great lakes diver"
I wish it was late July now.
