Question for those that still use film..

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fire_diver

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I just don't log dives
I am about to go on my first cruise, where I will be diving in the Caribbean for the first time. I can't decide what film to use for my camera (Sea & Sea MM2, with strobe). The camera has auto film-speed indexing of 100 or 400 and a set shutter speed of 1/100. I have no way of knowing what subjects will present themselves or where. ISO 100 would be best for macro, but ISO 400 would be best for distance shots. I'm torn as to what to use. I even thought of possibly using ISO 200 film (which will index as 100) but am afraid of washing out my macros.

Any suggestions?

FD
 
ISO 100

All the best, James
 
Assuming you're using C41 process print film as opposed to slide film (E6 or Kodachrome) you're probably going to want 400ASA film. It's more forgiving in various lighting conditions and is "faster" in lower light allowing for faster shutter speeds than 100ASA.

It used to be that 400 speed film was grainier than the slower films but that isn't as true anymore. Also, ask yourself what the end use of your shots will be. 8X10 prints for framing? 400 is still good. Scanning into your computer? No difference.

Sea ya!
 
Okay, I'm going to tell you to take both, ISO 100 and ISO 400. Use the ISO 400 on deeper dives, dives where you are photographing divers at a distance of greater than 6 feet.

Use the ISO 100 film on fish, and especially on macro photos.

You say the camera synchs at a shutter speed of 1/100th of a second. That limits you for the slower film, in that you will need either the flash, or slower shutter speed to get good exposures at 1/100th second. However, if you can use the camera in natural light and it automatically selects a slower speed, then you can use the slower film speed in shallower water.

In short, you will have to determine what type of dive you will photograph, and then select the film based upon that decision.

John
 
However the question you did not ask, but I will answer in any event is what type of film to use? IMO use a color negative film. Slide film has traditionally been a favorite of pro's, but the exposure latitude makes it very unforgiving. For the benifits of slightly better grain, IMO it's just not worth the sure to be disappointing results of slide film when improperly shot. Your camera setup is just not ideal for fine tuning exposure.

The type of film I would recommend is fujicolor press 400. Why? Fine grain structure for a 400 speed film, wide dynamic range, wide exposure latitude, and it does well under difficult lighting and mixed light situations. This is a professional film. While they may sell it cold, it can take some punishment, but I'd keep it cool if possible until maybe the evening before you shoot it. If you want to use this film, don't expect to find it at your local Safeway, you will likely need to find a camera store, and film is becoming more difficult to get ahold of, so don't just show up at a local camera shop with the expectation of getting a dozen rolls without calling first.

I'm recommending this blind from a shooting UW perspective, even if I have extensive experience with film. This would appear to be the best choice, but if others that have used this film have other reasons to use something else, I'd potentially take that advice. OTOH, negative film is all C41 process, and I can think of no reason that this would not be a solid choice for any shooting situation.

For 100 speed film I'd recommend Fuji Superia.

You may want to choose to use a 200 speed film at the 100 speed setting. The end result would be 1 stop of overexposure assuming that there was enough light to gain the extra stop. Overexposing negative film generally results in more saturation, and good results. It should NOT wash out. Negative film has an exposure latitude that allows up to FIVE stops of overexposure (not that I'd recommend that).

I would NOT recommend overexposing a positive or slide based film. In fact I'd strongly recommend against that as overexposure in slide film is a great way to generate very bad results. You could try some slide film at ISO 100. Underexposure of slide film by about 1 stop is generally not too bad. In fact Kodachrome like to be underexposed, but not necessarily by a stop, more like 1/3.

Good Luck, and enjoy the trip.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I guess the old ideas of 400 being 'grainy' arent true anymore. Old notions die hard.
And yes, I will be using standard color negative film. Shame I dont have 2 camera and double strobes. I'd load each with different film and have dedicated macro and distance cameras.

This whole UW photog thing is really frustrating me right now. I have a great land camera with every type of lens and filter I could need (I love photography). It's an old camera but I know how to use it. Now I have a different camera without alot of the versatility I'm used to in an enviroment that can be so widely unpredictable. Whole new learning experience....


FD
 
fire_diver:
This whole UW photog thing is really frustrating me right now. I have a great land camera with every type of lens and filter I could need (I love photography). It's an old camera but I know how to use it. Now I have a different camera without alot of the versatility I'm used to in an enviroment that can be so widely unpredictable. Whole new learning experience....
FD

You've got more than half the battle won since you're experienced in framing and composition already. More versatility at this point might be just task loading. My (unsolicitedeyebrow ) advice is to work on these elements and let the auto features and film carry the load.

Have fun and

Sea ya!
 
RonFrank, when you mention over exposing 200 speed film, are you suggesting having it processed normally or with push/pull?

p.s. I'm a land & velvia slide guy so far. Still need to get a housing, or convince myself to go digital
 

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