Sony DCR-HC42 Housing, DVD Burning & Camcorder Question

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Hello. I purchased a Sony DCR-HC42 last night for $600 but have not yet opened. Do you have any advice on if we bought the right camera, what housing to use (that isn't is too expensive) and an external dvd burner? We are leaning toward electronic controls.

Thanks for any advice you may have.
 
Hey triggertravel,

I just got the same camcorder and have looked for a housing, but unfortunately in my research the cheapest I have found are the ikelites. The 6038.16 Model is the one that fits the HC-42 and is $800 on ikelite's site. The only other option that i know of is the housing that sony makes ( MPK-DVF7 Handycam® Marine Pack), but you will pay through the roof for that ($2200). The sony housing looks nice, but does not allow all the functions that the ikelite housing allow on the camera.

Here is the link for the ikelite housing - http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sony_hc30.html

I know this isnt exactly what you want to hear, and I was in the same boat as you. I accepted it eventually when I realized it was the best option. Hope this helps you.
 
You should also look at the Equinox housing.

They are mechanical controls, but are an excellent housing and cost around 650.00. They can also handle many models of camcorder and can have the controls modified if you change cameras.

Mike...

www.dive-equinox.com
 
Mike I have to thank you BIG TIME... I owe you one for providing that link. I have a sony digital camera also that I have been searching high and low for a housing that doesnt cost $900-1500 (ikelites). Do you own any of these? I would like to know what kind of quality they are (they look pretty good). Not to mention ALL housings COME WITH a wide angle lens and color correction filter at no charge! you cant beat that anywhere....
 
The HC42 is an excellent camcorder. I have sold many HC40's to customers and they have all been very pleased. The video quality is excellent, the price is right, and the size is right.

As far as housings, there are many options. Yes Ikelite is an option. However I feel there are more quality housings, for the same price and of course upwards. If the price is right for Ikelite, then I would look at the Top Dawg Mini machined aluminum housing (www.topdawgvideo.com. I would also look at the Light & Motion Stingray III housing. This housing is available as both a camera specific housing which has more features and better optics, or there is a non-camera specific version (Sport), similar to the Top Dawg, available.

The Top Dog and Stingray III Sport (generic) housings retail for $800-900. The Stingray III is 1,799. There are also many available options for the housings. The optional monitor back is to me, a necessary option. Looking through the viewfinder is quite difficult. However, a 2.5 inch lcd makes viewing what you are recording much easier. You are able to tell what is in focus, and you are able to enjoy your dives and still see what is going on without having your eyes glued to the viewfinder.

If you would like further information, need any help or are interested in trying out a housing, let me know.
 
Mike & Seth - Thank you for the feedback and suggestions. If I buy something w/ mechanical controls to save a little money do you think I'll regret not buying something w/ electrical controls later? Thanks again!
 
Thank you for the feedback. How do you feel about electrical vs. mechanical? I'm also trying to find a practical way to carry the following between home and my vacation destination and the best way to keep stuff safe on the dive boat w/o hauling a big Pelican Case:

Olypus Digital Camera
Underwater Housing
Different lenses
Sony Camcorder
Housing
Lenses
Tapes
Binoculars
Tripod

Thanks again for all you suggestions and feedback!

Will
 
triggertravel:
Thank you for the feedback. How do you feel about electrical vs. mechanical?
The only consideration I would offer is that if a mechanical control fails(leaks) your housing is useless till fixed. If the electronics fail, turn on the camera, seal it in the housing, and you can still dive and edit later. I've also heard of mechanical controls slipping off their contact point sometimes so you lose use of that function till you surface.

Personally I also like the ease of an electronic housing. Slide your camera in the bracket, plug it in and seal the back. I would assume also that feeling around for a mechanical control, especially while your eye is glued to the viewfinder, might be more difficult at first and may cause some camera shake if you bump the housing, although I'm sure that goes away with practice. I like having my hand on/near the controls at all times while filming. However I also do find that for the vast majority of filming I've done, I probably don't touch the controls more than about 1/2 dozen times per dive.
I'm also trying to find a practical way to carry the following between home and my vacation destination and the best way to keep stuff safe on the dive boat w/o hauling a big Pelican Case:

Olypus Digital Camera
Underwater Housing
Different lenses
Sony Camcorder
Housing
Lenses
Tapes
Binoculars
Tripod
With all the stuff you have, I'd go with a Pelican case. Maybe a 1650 if it all fits. There's also a cheaper version that seems just as good. Search for Pelican case here and there'll be a link to the other mfr. Get the TSA approved locks and maybe you'll discourage the baggage handlers from having a look. Personally I'd also not mark the case with any stickers as to the contents.

I carry my video housing in my carry-on rollerbag along with my regs/computer, almost always get stopped at security since my housing is Poly, but that's ok. I have a hard-framed rollerbag for those times when I've been asked to check it - like to Bonaire.
I carry the video camera as my 2nd carry-on in a video bag.

At the destination I load the tape/battery/camera onshore. The tapes are two hrs. so chances are good that you won't use one up on a 2-tank dive and I have an extended battery so I don't have to change it either. I never open my housing on the boat if I can help it.

I almost always drop it in the rinsetank immediately on boarding - to check for leaks and let it acclimatize, so usually I just carry it loose, maybe in a little duffel bag to protect the outside from scratches. I only film in warm water so I like letting the housing heat up in the rinsetank, especially if I loaded it in the A/C. I've never had fogging problems doing this.
 
I corrected the Top Dawg and added the L&M Link for those interested. While I have a different system (Sony PC-110 / L&M Mako). The two control I wish I had were white balance and aperture....neither the Stingray nor the Top Dawg appear to have those controls available. I can live with the white balance by using the built in red filter (except at night), but there have been times where I simply get too much light (sillouetes sp?) etc...without being abe to crank down the f-stop. That being said, I am not sure whether these settings are available on the LANC options for your camcorder.
 
sjspeck: Thank you for all the advice. I'm certain this will help me avoid problems!!! What system do you use or recommend? We want to stay under $2,000.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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