Surprise observation in Palau

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boulderjohn

Technical Instructor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
Messages
31,773
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30,045
Location
Boulder, CO
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Like many divers around the world, Palau was definitely a bucket list location for me. I had heard the diving was great there, and I was not disappointed. Many people around the world evidently share that view, because there are a lot of different dive operators in that island cluster ready to serve those customers from far flung lands. On the other hand....

1. We encountered a very nicely made pamphlet obviously created by something like a chamber of commerce. It was a typical colorful and informative collection of facts about the island, tourist tips, and advertisements. Although there were some scuba operator advertisements, scuba was certainly not played up. There was a section on things to do while visiting Palau. Snorkeling was highlighted, but scuba was not even mentioned.

2. One of the nice things about the island is that if you want to go somewhere like a restaurant or other location, your destination will often send a free shuttle to take you there and back. One day we got such a ride to the official Palau museum. One of the guides there drove the shuttle that brought us. She asked us why we were in Palau--sightseeing, perhaps? No, we said, we were there fore scuba. "Scuba?" she asked, her voice filled with clear surprise. It really seemed to us she had no idea people came to Palau for such a strange reason.

3. The dive operator we used had warned us that if we had gear problems, we would either need to fix it ourselves or rent replacement gear. When my primary regulator hose formed a bubble, I needed to replace it. They told me that my best bet to find one on the island was a specific shop in Koror. When I got there, I saw that they had several complete models of regulator sets, and they had HP hoses galore. They had no regulator hoses. Moreover, neither of the two salespeople knew what a regulator hose was or where I could find one. It was more of a gift shop. Fortunately, one of the other customers in that gift shop worked for another dive operation, and he took me there. This operator advertised that it was able to support technical diving on the deeper sites in Palau. I use a bungeed alternate/long hose primary setup, but they only had traditional regulator hose lengths. I could get by with that, but if I had not found them, I have no idea where I could have gotten a regulator hose.

In general, then, it seems to me as if the island has a justified reputation for great diving, and you can easily find a boat and DM to take you to the dive sites. The rest of the island does not seem to be aware of this, though, and the many dive operators there have only one function--leading dives. That may be because although many westerners come for the diving, the overwhelming bulk of the tourist industry is from Asia, and they apparently come primarily for an island getaway, with no thought of scuba.
 
Like many divers around the world, Palau was definitely a bucket list location for me. I had heard the diving was great there, and I was not disappointed. Many people around the world evidently share that view, because there are a lot of different dive operators in that island cluster ready to serve those customers from far flung lands. On the other hand....

1. We encountered a very nicely made pamphlet obviously created by something like a chamber of commerce. It was a typical colorful and informative collection of facts about the island, tourist tips, and advertisements. Although there were some scuba operator advertisements, scuba was certainly not played up. There was a section on things to do while visiting Palau. Snorkeling was highlighted, but scuba was not even mentioned.

2. One of the nice things about the island is that if you want to go somewhere like a restaurant or other location, your destination will often send a free shuttle to take you there and back. One day we got such a ride to the official Palau museum. One of the guides there drove the shuttle that brought us. She asked us why we were in Palau--sightseeing, perhaps? No, we said, we were there fore scuba. "Scuba?" she asked, her voice filled with clear surprise. It really seemed to us she had no idea people came to Palau for such a strange reason.

3. The dive operator we used had warned us that if we had gear problems, we would either need to fix it ourselves or rent replacement gear. When my primary regulator hose formed a bubble, I needed to replace it. They told me that my best bet to find one on the island was a specific shop in Koror. When I got there, I saw that they had several complete models of regulator sets, and they had HP hoses galore. They had no regulator hoses. Moreover, neither of the two salespeople knew what a regulator hose was or where I could find one. It was more of a gift shop. Fortunately, one of the other customers in that gift shop worked for another dive operation, and he took me there. This operator advertised that it was able to support technical diving on the deeper sites in Palau. I use a bungeed alternate/long hose primary setup, but they only had traditional regulator hose lengths. I could get by with that, but if I had not found them, I have no idea where I could have gotten a regulator hose.

In general, then, it seems to me as if the island has a justified reputation for great diving, and you can easily find a boat and DM to take you to the dive sites. The rest of the island does not seem to be aware of this, though, and the many dive operators there have only one function--leading dives. That may be because although many westerners come for the diving, the overwhelming bulk of the tourist industry is from Asia, and they apparently come primarily for an island getaway, with no thought of scuba.

Which is a good thing IMO. You do not want masses of divers on the reefs.
 
Like many divers around the world, Palau was definitely a bucket list location for me. I had heard the diving was great there, and I was not disappointed. Many people around the world evidently share that view, because there are a lot of different dive operators in that island cluster ready to serve those customers from far flung lands. On the other hand....

. . .3. The dive operator we used had warned us that if we had gear problems, we would either need to fix it ourselves or rent replacement gear. When my primary regulator hose formed a bubble, I needed to replace it. They told me that my best bet to find one on the island was a specific shop in Koror. When I got there, I saw that they had several complete models of regulator sets, and they had HP hoses galore. They had no regulator hoses. Moreover, neither of the two salespeople knew what a regulator hose was or where I could find one. It was more of a gift shop. Fortunately, one of the other customers in that gift shop worked for another dive operation, and he took me there. This operator advertised that it was able to support technical diving on the deeper sites in Palau. I use a bungeed alternate/long hose primary setup, but they only had traditional regulator hose lengths. I could get by with that, but if I had not found them, I have no idea where I could have gotten a regulator hose. . .

John, why didn't you just go to any of the Big Three Dive Operators for gear support (Fish n' Fins, SamsTours, or Neco Marine)??? Both Sam's & Fish n' Fins have technical dive support, with the latter dive-op instrumental in finding the USS Perry in May 2000.

An old overview map of Koror/Arakebesang (Ngerkebesang)/Malakal from my first visit 20 years ago, showing the hotels at that time:
image-jpeg.448544.jpg

Sea Passion Hotel (not indicated on this map because building wasn't as yet completed ), is located exactly where the causeway connects to Malakal Island, and is IMHO the best centrally located hotel within convenient walking distance to the major dive operations and eateries on Malakal, and away from the traffic, noise and dust of downtown/main street Koror. SamsTours dive-ops is located on the map by going northwest from the Sea Passion Hotel along the waterway, around the point, and then down to where you see that upper road end on the west side of Malakal. Palau Pacific Resort ("PPR") is on Ngerkebesang Island and listed on the map as number 5.

It's a very long hot & dusty round trip half mile hike across the bridge/causeways into and from downtown main street Koror (bring water and a rain poncho if you make that trek into town). There is a Blue Bird Shuttle Bus (roughly $10/week-pass) that starts service in the afternoon @4pm and goes 'til 11pm providing transport from/to major hotels and the restaurants in downtown Koror.

The American Diner roadside type fare restaurant is called the Rock Island Cafe, and is listed number 21 above as "Coconut Hut" (Rock Island Cafe is run by Seventh Day Adventist's, so they are closed Friday evening to Sat evening for sabbath). Kramer's Restaurant is in the vicinity of the West Plaza Malakal Hotel at number 11. Fish n' Fins dive-ops and the Ocean Hunter Liveaboards are co-located at number 24 ("Palau Int'l Reef Center").

image-jpeg.448543.jpg

This view is looking South: SamsTours and bar & grill is off picture to the right behind the Sea Passion Hotel and around the jungle growth coral limestone uprising you see in the background -you can walk the road or swim/kayak to get there. Neco Marine, Drop-Off bar and grill, and the Aggressor Liveaboards are across the road and a short walk up to the left. The large Hotel & Resort complex in the upper left is the Palau Royal Resort ("PRR"). West Plaza Malakal and Kramer's Restaurant (look for sign) is going further up the road and on the left.
 
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you don't really get casual divers showing up in palau. anyone traveling there and likely to dive is already going to have a liveaboard res or know where to find sam's, neco, or fish and fins.

the japanese market also is not inclined to get certified on vacation as far as i have seen, so no real point to try and rope in people for a DSD or OW.

easier to sell them on a snorkel/kayak/waterfall hike tour if you are catering to the general tourist market
 
You should always have "expedition spares" especially if you dive the long hose set-up as well. . .

What else did you forget @boulderjohn -your PLB too?
 
Fish n' Fins have technical dive support
Fish 'n' Fins is where I got the regulator hose.
 
Which is a good thing IMO. You do not want masses of divers on the reefs.

Even then, I still saw lots of scraped marks on the rocks where reef hooks had been parked on around the ledges of Blue Corner & Peleliu Cut in comparison to those similar places in Raja Ampat or Komodo.
 
Even then, I still saw lots of scraped marks on the rocks where reef hooks had been parked on around the ledges of Blue Corner & Peleliu Cut in comparison to those similar places in Raja Ampat or Komodo.
. . .It's nice to read that the pelagic action is still there to be seen -but you should have witnessed it twenty years ago (and of course the long time veteran dive guides at the time said you should've experienced it all twenty years earlier in the 80's). The diver environmental pressure has increased over the years that the lip & wall at the hook-in point at famous iconic Blue Corner is now totally denuded of the abundant colorful coral, sea fans and other sessile invertebrate life that I so vividly remember.
 
Even then, I still saw lots of scraped marks on the rocks where reef hooks had been parked on around the ledges of Blue Corner & Peleliu Cut in comparison to those similar places in Raja Ampat or Komodo.

That’s too bad. I thought it would be the other way around since, more divers go to Raja or Komodo.
 
That’s too bad. I thought it would be the other way around since, more divers go to Raja or Komodo.

It’s a matter of time unfortunately :( I’m afraid it won’t be long they would catch up to Palau demise. So, go there before it’s too late.
 
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