Where are we on the Atomic Cobalt 2 now?

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Hi All,

What's the deal with the Cobalt 2s now? I know there were a lot of problems with the Cobalt when it was first released. Have these been mostly resolved? The reviews online still seem poor, but it is hard to tell whether these are the result of the earlier issues, or an ongoing issue with quality, reliability, etc.

I know a couple of people who own the Cobalt, but I'd love to hear the opinions of others, especially if you have a lot of RECENT experience with them (e.g., if you sell them at your shop).

P.S., The Oceanic Proplus X seems like a possible alternative, but who knows what's going on there?! Are they ever going to be available?

Thanks!

--Thumbsplitter

I’m one of the original designers of the Cobalt’s electronics, firmware, and interface design- parts of the computer that really have been very reliable.

The Cobalt 2 had an unfortunate debut in 2014, with a group of defective depth sensors that failed in the field, though not in factory wet testing. That wasn’t the fault of Atomic or the design, the sensors came with a contaminated protective gel that caused bad readings after a period of use. But it definitely gave the product a reputation, and caused Atomic to halt production until the issue was solved- and it was hard to figure out. The saga is archived here on SB. There were other problems- particularly with button magnets that rusted. Batteries have actually proven highly reliable overall. While Atomic’s customer service is outstanding, no one wants a computer to fail, especially one that expensive.

That said, experiences have been variable- I just got back some that had been on a charter boat, with in excess of 500 dives- they were working perfectly, but had reached the point that the Li-Ion batteries needed to be replaced, they were just worn out.

Almost two years ago now Atomic redesigned many internal aspects of the case, including all the seals, developed a new type of molded button magnet that has proven to be completely reliable, and has been extensively wet testing computers before they ship to filter out any sensor problems or leaks. I’ve seen the return and service reports, and the difference is night and day. The reliability is much better. Even if they look the same on the outside, the more recent case design is very different, and addressed the failure points that Atomic had uncovered. Unfortunately, once you have problems with a product, the reputation persist long after the fix is in place. I think that’s very much the case here.

-Ron
 
I’m one of the original designers of the Cobalt’s electronics, firmware, and interface design- parts of the computer that really have been very reliable.

The Cobalt 2 had an unfortunate debut in 2014, with a group of defective depth sensors that failed in the field, though not in factory wet testing. That wasn’t the fault of Atomic or the design, the sensors came with a contaminated protective gel that caused bad readings after a period of use. But it definitely gave the product a reputation, and caused Atomic to halt production until the issue was solved- and it was hard to figure out. The saga is archived here on SB. There were other problems- particularly with button magnets that rusted. Batteries have actually proven highly reliable overall. While Atomic’s customer service is outstanding, no one wants a computer to fail, especially one that expensive.

That said, experiences have been variable- I just got back some that had been on a charter boat, with in excess of 500 dives- they were working perfectly, but had reached the point that the Li-Ion batteries needed to be replaced, they were just worn out.

Almost two years ago now Atomic redesigned many internal aspects of the case, including all the seals, developed a new type of molded button magnet that has proven to be completely reliable, and has been extensively wet testing computers before they ship to filter out any sensor problems or leaks. I’ve seen the return and service reports, and the difference is night and day. The reliability is much better. Even if they look the same on the outside, the more recent case design is very different, and addressed the failure points that Atomic had uncovered. Unfortunately, once you have problems with a product, the reputation persist long after the fix is in place. I think that’s very much the case here.

-Ron
Hi as I stated above my wife has just got hers back. Havent used it yet but the battery is definitely not draining like before. Is that a fix or putting it in sleep mode, do not know
 
Hi as I stated above my wife has just got hers back. Havent used it yet but the battery is definitely not draining like before. Is that a fix or putting it in sleep mode, do not know
Every so often a Li-ion battery will start internally discharging at a higher rate. It's not common but it definitely does happen. They also will start losing capacity after several hundred charge discharge cycles even in the best of circumstances. My guess is that Atomic gave you a new battery. You should typically see a 1-2% drop each 24 hours when in sleep mode- so several months of standby if you start fully charged. In sleep mode it still wakes up every few minutes to sample ambient air pressure so if you did just jump in the water it would know what surface pressure to base your deco calculations on. When it's wet (or has the charging adapter plugged in) it won't go to full sleep, so it will lose battery faster in that state. Best practice is to plan on charging every month or two even if you don't use the Cobalt, that will help prolong the battery life. Hope this is the ultimate fix for you.

Ron
 
Does the Cobalt 2 still have 5 o-rings inside the quick disconnect system? I was an early adopter and bought a Cobalt. It failed numerous ways. I had to go to a backup in 5 of the first 6 trips with the thing. I took photographs of the thing reading no dive time while at depth. When the tank pressure reading was off, it was sent back again. I'm not sure I even got the same one back. Since I got it back the last time, it has worked without fail. I absolutely love the the software design. It was a major leap over other computers. As a former instructor, I was always an early adopter. Early adopters get punished. If I was Atomic, I would have spent money on new molds for the cases so they would look completely different than previous models. That way there is a very distinct difference between old unreputable models and new ones.
 
Does the Cobalt 2 still have 5 o-rings inside the quick disconnect system? I was an early adopter and bought a Cobalt. It failed numerous ways. I had to go to a backup in 5 of the first 6 trips with the thing. I took photographs of the thing reading no dive time while at depth. When the tank pressure reading was off, it was sent back again. I'm not sure I even got the same one back. Since I got it back the last time, it has worked without fail. I absolutely love the the software design. It was a major leap over other computers. As a former instructor, I was always an early adopter. Early adopters get punished. If I was Atomic, I would have spent money on new molds for the cases so they would look completely different than previous models. That way there is a very distinct difference between old unreputable models and new ones.
There are still 5 O-rings, actually six if you count everyone. But the QD fitting was redesigned very early on to make the HP sealing O-ring less vulnerable to damage when disconnected, putting it inside the female fitting. The materials for the O-rings have also changed.
I appreciate what you say about changing the case looks, and from a marketing standpoint that would have been better. But from the standpoint of fixing a few known issues that turned up in use vs. possibly introducing new ones, and fixing the problems quickly, I also understand why Atomic chose to stick with the overall look while making significant internal changes.
Thanks for the comments on the user interface and software design, that's our main effort, to make a computer that is easy to use without a manual, that never leaves a diver wondering how to do something.
Glad you're seeing reliability with your replacement.

-Ron
 
I was just looking at one of these at a LDS tonight. Is there a way to tell by serial number, etc... Whether it's a "new & improved" edition vs. one with potential issues?
 
Well, for sure anything manufactured in the last year and a half- or longer- would incorporate the changes Atomic made to the case design. So I would expect any new stock in a dive store would be more recent than that- unless it has a lot of dust :wink:. If the serial # 3rd and 4th digits are "16" the PCB was 2016 manufacture, etc.

Ron
 
they are certainly convenient for that, however the inconvenience comes when you need to look at them as well as the bit of extra clutter since they require longer hoses to look at. If I were you, I would give Northeast Scuba Supply a ring and see if they have a Perdix in stock. John is really cool and local to you. It's definitely worth at least checking out in person. He's up in Allentown, so may be a bit of a drive, but definitely worth it
Actually Norristown, much closer to Philadelphia
 
Actually Norristown, much closer to Philadelphia

correct, sorry. with John's last name being Allen I get that messed up on a regular basis.... woops I also never really pay attention since I just call him or text him when I need something ordered
 
Well, for sure anything manufactured in the last year and a half- or longer- would incorporate the changes Atomic made to the case design. So I would expect any new stock in a dive store would be more recent than that- unless it has a lot of dust :wink:. If the serial # 3rd and 4th digits are "16" the PCB was 2016 manufacture, etc.

Ron
Thanks Ron
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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