Your honest opinon

[PerroneFord]

Although I do appreciate feedback on design I am more concerned about how willing people would be to buy it, because if people are I could make a business out of this.

The portion of the scuba market that is willing to pay $650 for a light is pretty small. Probably limited to the wealthy, cave divers, wreck divers, and a few others. Currently serving that market are Salvo, Halcyon, Sartek, Green Force, Dive Rite, and a few others. Each with between 2 and 10 offerings of lights.

If you're trying to make a business of this, it won't be easy.

 

[marchand]

Please note in my post I did not say what would the unit *weigh* I said how negative was it going to be? These are not the same thing. I could care less how much it weighs on land, I am VERY interested in it's buoyancy characteristics.

Also, I think you entirely the wrong idea about beam width. Most HID can lights have a beam width between 6 and 13 degrees. Beyond this the light is too diffuse for signaling, and is totally ineffective in water with a lot of particulate matter. A beam width of 180 degrees would be completely useless. The reason you see such large reflectors on many of these lights is to focus the beam VERY tightly and prevent light spill onto the diver next to you.

I don't know about the idea of using brass for a reflector. While it would be polishable, I am also wondering about whether it will tarnish over time from simple condensation.

Oh, and by the way, umbilicals get severed. Plan for it. A careless swipe along a rusty bulkhead can get it done. Or at least cause a problem.


I would strongly suggest you get your hands on a HID canister light, and try to understand why certain decisions and compromises were made in the design. There has been a lot of evolution of the product over the years. I've used a few can lights of different generations, and am VERY pleased with my current model because of the features it offers over older designs.

Best of luck in this venture.

A guesstimation on buoyancy would be around 6 pounds negative

About the reflector. The brass isn't going to be doing the reflecting. The reflective surface will be polished brass covered with silver and a clear coat applied over the entire reflector to keep it from tarnishing.

The beam width would be able to be changed anywhere from really wide to really narrow.

 

[PerroneFord]

Six pounds negative is a LOT. Nearly 3 pounds more negative than my 8hr canister for my 21w light. I would suspect that this would terribly unbalance most divers.

I'll leave the engineering to you on the beam width, but believe me when I tell you, "really narrow" isn't going to be specific enough for many buyers. Some are willing to shell out an extra $150 for a beam a couple of degrees more narrow. A quick search of "EKPP Reflector" should net you some information on that.

 

[marchand]

the reason that I said "really narrow" is because I do not know an exact number, it will be comparable to Salvo, Halcyon…

as for the buoyancy 6 pounds is an overestimation. It will probably be closer to 3 or 4, but definitely no more than 6

"There has been a lot of evolution of the product over the years. I've used a few can lights of different generations, and am VERY pleased with my current model because of the features it offers over older designs."

what types of features does it offer?

 

[PerroneFord]

1. Excellent reflector

2. Very "white" light. Color temperature is what I want

3. Robust bulb. The Brightstar bulb is great.

4. Ballast in the canister and sealed against flooding.

5. Only 3.5 negative so it balances nearly perfectly when I am carrying a stage and/or deco bottle.

6. Goodman handle.

7. Easy to use charger

8. Umbilical cord long enough to use left handed.

9. Recessed on/off switch ensures that my light stays on even when I have to have direct contact with the bottom, or the ship, etc.

10. Easy to replace components, even underwater for the bulb assembly.

 

[marchand]

1. Excellent reflector

2. Very "white" light. Color temperature is what I want

3. Robust bulb. The Brightstar bulb is great.

4. Ballast in the canister and sealed against flooding.

5. Only 3.5 negative so it balances nearly perfectly when I am carrying a stage and/or deco bottle.

6. Goodman handle.

7. Easy to use charger

8. Umbilical cord long enough to use left handed.

9. Recessed on/off switch ensures that my light stays on even when I have to have direct contact with the bottom, or the ship, etc.

10. Easy to replace components, even underwater for the bulb assembly.

How long does the umbilical need to be?

about the switch. would you rather have the switch on the light head or on the canister, and what type of switch is preferred?

 

[PerroneFord]

I prefer the switch on the canister. It's simpler. The screw-on lighthead of the Greenforce was convenient, but I don't know how reliable it is over time.

I have not measured the umbilical cord on my light, but I could do that for you when I get home late tonight.

 

[PerroneFord]

Umbilical is 39" long.

 

[daniel f aleman]

Salvo, Halcyon, DiveRite, etc. over-price their lights for the expressed reasons that this thread notes: a captive consumer with specific needs and little alternatives to meet those needs. As of now there is no need for the above named companies to lower prices, or to explore cheaper and better manufacturing processes.

 

[GreenDiverDown]

I say go for it!

A few years back another guy offered some KILLER can lights that he built himself. These were premium A-grade lights. His lights were as good as and in some cases much better than lights from the big boys. Even now I can't think of anyone who is more knowledgeable or skilled at light building.

A lot of "tech' gear started out as someone's 'garage' project. So... let's see what you can do...