Din Retainer / Hand Wheel Loosening?

[rob.mwpropane]

I have a bit of an issue with my 1st stage Din wheels coming undone, probably once every 6 months or so. I am meticulous about not turning the regs when on the tank. I was wondering if anyone has this issue or if it's just my dumb luck. I've torqued to spec and then some and no matter what I do at some point it comes loose.

I thought about being proactive and just tightneing once a month, but I was interested to see if others have this issue? I am contemplating adding just the smallest amount of loctite to it, but I'm not sure. Would like to hear from others 1st.

Regs are mostly D6, but I just had a Scubapro MK2 do it 2 weeks ago.

 

[boulderjohn]

I have learned the habit of always twisting the center to make sure it is tight, and I always carry the appropriate hex wrench in case it isn't. I asked DRIS for suggestions, and the only solution offered was to make sure I use a torque wrench to tighten it to the specified level. I have loaned that wrench out to others on the boat as needed.

 

[-JD-]

I have a bit of an issue with my 1st stage Din wheels coming undone, probably once every 6 months or so. I am meticulous about not turning the regs when on the tank. I was wondering if anyone has this issue or if it's just my dumb luck. I've torqued to spec and then some and no matter what I do at some point it comes loose.

I thought about being proactive and just tightneing once a month, but I was interested to see if others have this issue? I am contemplating adding just the smallest amount of loctite to it, but I'm not sure. Would like to hear from others 1st.

Regs are mostly D6, but I just had a Scubapro MK2 do it 2 weeks ago.

I've had that happen with my HOG D1s.

So I do this:

I have learned the habit of always twisting the center to make sure it is tight, and I always carry the appropriate hex wrench in case it isn't.

Cranking tight before, or Counter-torquing the reg-body when, unscrewing the DIN wheel seems to help to keep things set.


Loctite is not unheard of for this type of application - IIRC Early Genesis manifolds were Red-Loctited together as part of the of official assembly and heated in the oven for disassembly.

 

[Still Kicking]

As above, but periodically add a touch of lube to the threads on the DIN fitting (silicone or Christolube, as appropriate) so that you don't torque the fitting loose when you unscrew the reg from the valve.

 

[davehicks]

Clean your regulators DIN threads and the valve threads. Ideally use an ultrasonic cleaner on both. In between disassembly cleaning, use a brass wire brush to clean the threads every so often. I don't think thread lock should be needed unless the manufacturer suggests it. Seems like a good way to introduce foreign material in your 1st stage or lungs.

Tanks valves don't get enough care and attention. I bought a bunch of Thermo valve kits from DGX and any time I have any issue with leaks or resistance or it's time for hydro I pull the valve and rebuild it with a full cleaning. This makes it a lot easier to remove the DIN fitting in my experience. I have very few hangup or struggles getting them off and my DIN fittings rarely come loose.

I probably do this more often than most as I use a lot of O2. I have about 6 small O2 bottles for CCR use, and my experience is that the o-rings degrade faster and start to leak after a few years, much faster than Air/Nitrox tank valves.

 

[Boarderguy]

Blue loctite may be the answer. Red would keep them in place but would require heat to remove.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I have learned the habit of always twisting the center to make sure it is tight, and I always carry the appropriate hex wrench in case it isn't. I asked DRIS for suggestions, and the only solution offered was to make sure I use a torque wrench to tighten it to the specified level. I have loaned that wrench out to others on the boat as needed.

I always have the allen wrench. I "think" I'm pretty mechanical (and can feel "tight"), so I'm not sure I would drag a torque wrench on board. I do use one at home though.

I've had that happen with my HOG D1s.

So I do this:


Cranking tight before, or Counter-torquing the reg-body when, unscrewing the DIN wheel seems to help to keep things set.

I like that idea! I can incorporate that.

As above, but periodically add a touch of lube to the threads on the DIN fitting (silicone or Christolube, as appropriate) so that you don't torque the fitting loose when you unscrew the reg from the valve.

The threads don't see pressure, I don't see any reason to use Christolube? If anything I do need to clean the verdigris off everything (valves / threads), that would probably help.

Blue loctite may be the answer. Red would keep them in place but would require heat to remove.

Yeah, would have been the blue

 

[rhwestfall]

Easiest solution? Go back to yoke...



Anyhow...

The larger bodied firsts (someone mentioned the HOG D1) have been the only one to give me troubles... I've never had a MK17, a MK2, or a Poseidon loosen....

Could be a design flaw...

Any other brand want to be mentioned?

@rob.mwpropane - what model(s)?

 

[rhwestfall]

Of interesting behavior is that I have had the DIN body not hold up to the required torque, and the hex socket deform/round out.

That could be from a key not being high tolerance in machining...

Anyhow, that then leads to not correctly torquing

I also wonder if the repetitive removal has stretched the threads....

 

[tursiops]

Any other brand want to be mentioned?

My Dive Rite XTs often got loose. I just carried a proper hex wrench.