Removing Pro Valve DIN insert?

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I figured something like silicone grease would be bad on the threads as far as holding salt or sand. What about the thin teflon tape used by plumbers to keep two metal threaded pieces from corroding together and pipes from leaking?

You know, that is a good idea! I don't rarely use yoke regulators but will mention it to a friends that skipper dive boats.
 
I just checked my valves. I have both XS scuba and Thermo Pro valves. For both, the proper hex key is 1/4" (I am in North America). On the yoke nut side, the hex female side is quite deep, estimated 1/4". By the size, I would say with the right size hex key, it is very difficult to round out the female side.

---------- Post added July 17th, 2014 at 10:24 PM ----------

I figured something like silicone grease would be bad on the threads as far as holding salt or sand. What about the thin teflon tape used by plumbers to keep two metal threaded pieces from corroding together and pipes from leaking?

I think teflon tape or silicone grease will help to keep the threat unbind. But two possible concerns: 1)whatever you use there may not be O2 compatible if O2 clean status is needed. 2)even you don't need O2 clean status, I wonder if grease can get into tank during fill, or worse, a small piece of teflon tape comes loose and enter tank during fill, then plug the valve. Just my pure guess here.

Having that said, I have thermo pro valves on 2 HP100 tanks, 5+ years old (need rehydro). I have never remove the yoke nuts. They seems to come off just fine.
 
I figured something like silicone grease would be bad on the threads as far as holding salt or sand. What about the thin teflon tape used by plumbers to keep two metal threaded pieces from corroding together and pipes from leaking?

I don't see why not. If you do go this route please let us all know the results as I for one would be curious.
 
Could he have a deteriorated O ring that is now bonding the over tightened insert to the valve body?
 
Could he have a deteriorated O ring that is now bonding the over tightened insert to the valve body?

O-rings don't really do that. I've serviced some pretty horrible valves but the o-ring will tend to compress and become permanently deformed rather than stick. If they were made from natural rubber they might but they're not, so they won't.
 
Taping or greasing the threads in this case is pretty much uncharted to my knowledge but it does make sense. I prefer the idea of Teflon tape as grease will migrate.

O2 clean and such is probably not a concern as it is outside of the gas path which is why we have the problem in the first place.

I have seen that the hex key has varies between brands and over the years so check carefully when meeting a new valve.

Frequent removal is still your best friend. Done often and brushing the threads even with dry toothbrush and then rinsing & drying can keep things at bay.

Pete
 
How about old fashioned thermal shock or hot and cold. A can of freeze it and some boiling water. Immerse the valve in boiling water for 5 minutes, remove then spray the hole for the hex key with frezeit for 30 seconds or so.
Repeat a few times then as soon as you sop the freeze it try and unscrew with the hex key.
Not optomistic but maybe worth a try. I suspect it would be easier just to buy a new valve.
 
as I said in other threads, IIRC a second method for pressure monitoring is a Military and OSHA requirement for no-vis situations. Why it is so much $$ (exponentially) , IDK. Then again, remember what toilet seats cost on military contracts? Our tax dollars at work (keep in mind, some government agency is buying them)....
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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