Scubapro D400

[halocline]

Yeah 2013 and the number of D series and Air 1 regs in the stable is growing...

I recently spoke to a tech at one of the LDSes and he referred to the Pilot reg as a piece of crap Which was very surprising form me...

Another example of professionals at work!

 

[guruboy]

At least that was true for the earlier D400's that had metal orifices and the pre CE cert levers. SP managed to detune the bejezzus out of the D400 before they finally discontinued it. If they had left it in its pre 1995 configuration it would still be one of the top 2 or 3 second stages ever made.

Is there a way to check which version D400 I have without opening it up?

Here's your next thread revival

 

[halocline]

It was nice to see that nothing much has changed in the last seven years! I'm still using those same D300s.

Guruboy, if yours does have the plastic orifice I might have a replacement valve body for you which has the metal orifice. Lots of levers too. I guess it would turn your D400 into a D300/350. I'm assuming the older style valve body would fit in your reg but I'm not sure.

 

[johnnywulff]

I start diving in 80's with Air One, since there came in love with D series, all my 2nd stage in use 6 are D400, services them by my own thanks to Da Aquamaster thread, in storage have only one with plastic orifice the serial numbers is printed with the CE sign at the side of uper boddy near the inlet, you can put the older metal orifice valve boddy in this last version.

 

[buddhasummer]

I've been trawling threads looking for any info on tuning D series regs, 300 specifically. I do have PW literature but the more info I have the better. If there is such a thread if someone can post a link that would be greatly appreciated, otherwise Matt, you're going to get bombarded with emails. Cheers in advance.

 

[rhwestfall]

now D-series Simon? You are nearly as bad as me (though, unlike me, you do sell stuff off)....

IIRC, I've got 1 (converted) Pilot, 4-6 Ai1, and a least 1 each of the D300, 350 & 400.

 

[halocline]

They're easy to tune. The full procedure is in one of the files you sent me a while back. The bumper sticker version is: 1) stop the leak at the adjustment pad, 2) remove play from the lever. As you tighten the lever it will start to leak again, so you'll end up with a very small amount of play.

You have to over-tighten the pad 1/4 turn or so, then back it out. This removes torque from the spring. I usually put a tiny touch of lube on each end of the spring to help keep it from sticking on the pad. I don't know if that helps or not.

I just set them to where there is consistently no leak after multiple cycles. They're very stable with regards to case fault geometry, so there's no worry about freeflows in some positions because they're tuned too hot.

 

[buddhasummer]

Never even thought to check the files I have, silly me, I'll open them up, cheers for the reminder and pointers.

Bob, yes, I'm pretty sure I've got the G250s sorted and understood, ditto 109/156 and successfully converted a 109. Now onto the D series, which I've been the most excited about. I've overhauled one including replacing the pre dive switch O ring with a round one courtesy of Mr Halocline, was easier than I thought It would be, maybe just got lucky, having small girly fingers may have helped.

Selling off most of my 109/156/108s to fund the new D series/MK10 trip.

 

[buddhasummer]

If anyone has some/any good condition D300s they'd like to part with let me know. I've never actually dived one but hooked a functioning one up to a tank and it was very nice indeed, I could instantly tell the difference between that and every other second stage I've owned all of which were for the most part indistinguishable from each other. I think these are going to be my favourites.

 

[buddhasummer]

In only have three so am worried it's not enough to see me out...