No. Just be sure not to use heat or power tools where the surface may get heated in spots due to friction.
Tank maintenance and rust
- Thread starter doctormike
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sardiverdan
Contributor
The boot you have on your cylinder is a self drain boot, I can see the ridges in the photo. I have some Faber 120's with the solid rubber boot that drains poorly; however, a UWK boot will not fit this cylider because the ridges are too thick. You do realize you just oprned the door for the "GUE anti-boot" crowd to tell you how wrong you are using bots on cyliders
I ran into their lead tech man the other day at the dive shop and of cource he gave me grief for having boots on my double 130's.
I ran into their lead tech man the other day at the dive shop and of cource he gave me grief for having boots on my double 130's.
OP
The boot you have on your cylinder is a self drain boot, I can see the ridges in the photo. I have some Faber 120's with the solid rubber boot that drains poorly; however, a UWK boot will not fit this cylider because the ridges are too thick. You do realize you just oprned the door for the "GUE anti-boot" crowd to tell you how wrong you are using bots on cyliders
Right...! Well, I guess I can see one reason for no boots now, but probably not what GUE was thinking about.
OP
Not the rotating brush that fits on a power drill? Do you think that I need to do this all by hand with steel wool? How about if I irrigate with water while using the brush, to keep it cool...?
elmer fudd
Contributor
You shouldn't have any problems with a drill and a wire brush. If in doubt, just feel the surface and see if it's heating up. Steel tanks are a pretty good heat sink.
captain
Contributor
If it starts to glow from the wire brush it's too hot.
halocline
Contributor
Is that tank just painted on the shoulder and neck, like it looks in the photo? It's got to be galvanized, you'd never have a bare steel tank like that otherwise. Or is that some kind of wrap over the yellow paint?
Anyhow, I stripped a couple of old LP72s and re-painted them with ZRC galvilite, it worked great. You really want to get as much on as you can, and let it dry for a good long time. The stuff really hardens up over a few weeks.
Anyhow, I stripped a couple of old LP72s and re-painted them with ZRC galvilite, it worked great. You really want to get as much on as you can, and let it dry for a good long time. The stuff really hardens up over a few weeks.
OP
OP
It's not galvanized... I think that it is just two different colors of paint...
Sounds like a good plan! Maybe I'll do it in the off season (diving this Saturday)
molina67
Registered
Okay this is an old post I know, but if anyone else stumbles across it here is some advice for getting rid of rust... Find something called naval Jelly, I used it on the barrel of my Bradley Fighting vehicle's Barrel (25mm cannon) to get rid of rust... Apply let it sit and wipe off it's that easy... as the name states it's what the navy uses on their ships. That's my two cents...
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