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Singles setup:
Luxfer neutral buoyant 80
Amer-Sea cross tech BC
Apeks ATX-200 /w ATX 40 Octo
Oceanic DataTrans plus wrist mounted computer
Bare Artic 7mm semi-dry suit
Oceanic V-drive fins
C-8 LED light (newbie purchase)
OMS backup light

Doubles setup:
Dive-Rite Classic wing /w stainless BP
Worthington 95's
Dive-rite bands, and bolts
Apeks DST's / ATX50 (long hose setup)
Thermo valves and manifold
Oceanic computer (same as above)
Uwatec bottom timer
Uwatec compass
Bare XCD2 Tech Dry suit
Scuba-pro Jet fins XXL
Cressi big eyes mask (low volume)
Dive-Rite crotch strap

Things I still need:
Lift bag
redundant pressure guage
wreck light
DPV

wow after listing all this, now I know why the wife gives me the evil eye when ever I come back from the LDS, or UPS pulls in the driveway. It never looks like that much when it is all set up.

Mike
 
I have been doing a lot more research and I have some more dives under my belt. I did post here in the regional forum b/c I am curious what new england divers are using. I also do not want to buy things twice...I cannot afford it...and it will ruin diving for me. That said I have decided on a few things but the BC is still very much in the air. I dove a SP knighthawk while in the South Carolina and I loved it compared to the stab jackets I learned on. I have decided on a bp/w, there is a whole host of reasons but mainly b/c its a modular system and it makes perfect sense to get something that is expandable. There are a few questions I still have. When I first learned to dive I was mainly in water btwn 15-20ft and I was wearing a belt with over 40 lbs on it. This caused me terrible back pain and I also do not have the physique for a belt. When I dove in SC with the same exposure system I would wear here, but I dove to depths of 50-60ft and I knew there was going to be compression so I guessed and dove with 28 lbs for 4 dives. I really enjoyed having the weight in the BC. I did need to pull myself down a line for the first 20 ft before I could get a good decent going. In hindsight I think 30lbs or 32 lbs would have been perfect. Anyway, I am thinking now that I am more confortable in the water that I will be in low 30lbs for new england diving. This brings me to my BC questions. If lets say I dive with 40 lbs of lead does that mean I need a BC that has 40 lbs of lift?

I am looking at a hammerhead plate, harness system, and oxycheq 30# or 40# wing
I also like NESS dive rite package but have heard mixed things about dive rite wings
 
make sure you remember that if you go BP/W your BP will probably weigh some too...that will take a LOT of weight off your belt...also the fact taht your BP/W will probably be negatively bouyant as opposed to positively bouyant(as compared to most BC's)
 
I bought a recreational rig when I first started diving. A few years later when I decided to begin tech training I had to replace almost all of it. So I have a $450 wetsuit sitting in the basement, a $400 Seaquest Balance BC sitting in the basement, etc., etc., etc. If I knew then what I know now....I would have saved money.

Some of my equipment from my first purchase I still use now. For doubles I have the Dive Rite SS backplate, Dive Rite Classic Wing (59lbs of lift), MK25/G250HP first primary on a 7' hose, Sherwood Maximus under my neck on a bungie as my 2nd primary, Dive Rite Deluxe Harness, Sherwood Brut for a deco regulator on my alum 80 deco bottle or 30CF deco bottle, etc., etc.

I would not go out and buy Sherwood regs but since I already had them, they are adequate for what I use them for. Considering the fact that they don't freeze, they are in fact more than adequate. My deepest profiles (160') require my first deco stops at about 80' so the Brut is just fine for that. The Maximus breaths fine as a second primary to my current max depths.

I have (virtually) debated the deluxe harness issue with others here before. Plastic in freezing temps is more likely to break if smashed - that's a fact. However - if this smashing force hits your gear anywhere - you may be looking at other broken plastic parts such as your regulators and computer housings. Don't let your gear get smashed :) If the plastic buckle breaks underwater - it's of no consequence. You have two shoulder straps and a crotch strap. If you disconnect the left should buckle - even floating on the surface - you barely notice it. The obvious benefit is getting out of your gear. You should be able to get into/out of your gear without the buckle - the buckle simply makes it easier and more convenient.

--Matt
 
My wife and I are pretty new divers. I enjoy the sport so I have been nailing the ratings one by one. (I just finished my Assistant Instructor) By no means am I a hardcore dude… But diving a submerged 17th century church does give me a woody. Anyways we just moved back from Thailand, so I do not know if the availability of gear differs in the USA. I am not a tec diver, I just love swimming with the fish, wrecks and sunken cities. As sick as it may sound, I also enjoy diving in low visibility, that way everything you bump into is a nice surprise.

Sea Quest Pro QD (Integrated Weights)
I wanted a BCD with integrated weights because I don’t like messing with weight belts. Yes it has wings, which also means it has nice big pockets and many D rings.

Aqua Lung Titan LX Supreme (Hard to find in Thailand)
It breaths well for me all the way down to 40 meters, Nitrox Compatible and is able to dive in cold water (Supreme) I haven’t done any ice diving or dry suit work, but if I ever want to, I think this will work.

Aqua Lung LX Supreme alternate second stage.

Atomic split fins They are big and test show they are supposed to be a good all around fin. They were also recommended to me and have worked out well. I am 6’3” with size 13-15 shoe so they also fit well.

Fins for the wife It has been difficult finding a fin my wife likes. She is 100lbs and a pretty small frame. I hope to get her into the aqua blue, their new fin that is a little shorter and softer. She is using kids fins now.

Retractor Yes I do use it and I like it. My BCD has an opening for one so it does not dangle. I then added a climbers ring to it allow for fast change of accessories. At night I will attach my spare light to it and push it under my BCD so it does not hang and during the day, my slate if I desire.

A little Wenoka dive knife with some Collins guy signature. Its little, it mounts on the holes in my BCD so I do not have to think about it until I rinse it post dive.

UK lights We bought a kit of three lights on sale. It worked out well because I was shopping for two. I have found that I like the smaller light when visibility is down.

PONY BOTTLE PONY BOTTLE PONY BOTTLE Sometimes I like to dive alone, it is very relaxing for me, but with that are some added risk, so I invested in a pony bottle (6cf). The downside is it does not travel as well as the spare air, but I have twice the capacity.

Tank This was a mistake… I bought the steel Faber 121 which when empty is positive 4 lbs. I did not know this at the time of purchase. +4 does not sound like much; it is about the same as an al 80, but kind of a bummer for a steel tank. XS Scuba (Worthington) has a steel 121 that comes out about –2 empty.

Computer Atmos 2 OK in all modes. I want the D-9, but I am waiting for the third or forth generation. I have seen too many problems with .1 and .2 of the D-9. I can live with $200, but I do not want to be stuck with $1,400

Wetsuits… I had one that fit well and looked ok, but then my wife stepped out of the changing room and looked really hot in her wet suit, that cost almost as much as my BCD, so I found one on clearance, so I could I always check out the curves on my wife, even under water.

I know none of this equipment is extreme, but it works well for me and for my needs. So good luck finding equipment that works out for what YOU want to do now and in the future. Several people have told me that I can get up to ten years out of my equipment. I hope that is true. I spend more time than anyone else I know rinsing my gear trying to add that extra year of life to it.

Good luck and have fun with your diving. For me it has been great because it is the only sport my wife and I do together. She does not like to run 20 miles with me, will not let me throw her down the side of a snow covered mountain or bike 100 miles uphill with me. But she will go to gun club, church and we always love to scuba.

OK… She does fly with me.
 
MrTsunami:
PONY BOTTLE PONY BOTTLE PONY BOTTLE Sometimes I like to dive alone, it is very relaxing for me, but with that are some added risk, so I invested in a pony bottle (6cf). The downside is it does not travel as well as the spare air, but I have twice the capacity.

I'm sorry, but depending on 6cft of gas to save your *** is foolish. If you feel the need for a pony bottle and refuse to dive with doubles (the better solution), at least get a 19-40 cft bottle...you know, something that has an even remote chance of getting you to the surface.

Take this scenario...You're a bit stressed because you just goobered up your dive and ran out of gas. now your breathing rate spikes...probably as high as 1cft/min SCR or even higher. Say you are doing a dive to 60 ft, which is 3 atmospheres. 6cft will give you about 2 minutes of extra time. Woo fricken hoo....

Or, if you're at 33 ft...2 atmospheres...you get a whole *3* minutes! Now, *that* shallow, you can just blow and go anyhow if you're so inclined, so why carry it?

Now, 20 cft of gas would last you at least 10 minutes at 33 ft and 7ish at 60 ft...enough time to do a slow, controlled ascent and turn a bad day into a better one.

The *only* thing a 6cft bottle is useful for is pumping argon into your drysuit.

I'm not going to even get in to the holy trinity of "new diver", "Assistant instructor", and "solo diver"....
 
Well a direct 60 fpm ascent from 100 feet will use about 3-4 cf of gas. 30 seconds at 100 feet will use about 2 cf.

I guess if you're comfortable sucking your backup tank totally dry *on the way up* from a failure with an already fast ascent rate and no safety stop at the very end of what was probably a long-ish dive, a 6 cf pony is pretty cool!
 
Soggy:
I'm sorry, but depending on 6cft of gas to save your *** is foolish. If you feel the need for a pony bottle and refuse to dive with doubles (the better solution), at least get a 19-40 cft bottle...you know, something that has an even remote chance of getting you to the surface.

Take this scenario...You're a bit stressed because you just goobered up your dive and ran out of gas. now your breathing rate spikes...probably as high as 1cft/min SCR or even higher. Say you are doing a dive to 60 ft, which is 3 atmospheres. 6cft will give you about 2 minutes of extra time. Woo fricken hoo....

Or, if you're at 33 ft...2 atmospheres...you get a whole *3* minutes! Now, *that* shallow, you can just blow and go anyhow if you're so inclined, so why carry it?

Now, 20 cft of gas would last you at least 10 minutes at 33 ft and 7ish at 60 ft...enough time to do a slow, controlled ascent and turn a bad day into a better one.

The *only* thing a 6cft bottle is useful for is pumping argon into your drysuit.

I'm not going to even get in to the holy trinity of "new diver", "Assistant instructor", and "solo diver"....


Ditto - there seem to a number of shops in MA that are now rigging new divers with goofball 6cu ponies as part of their basic setup. This is pure JUNK - it's a false sense of security that can get divers in tons of trouble, espically new divers. If you can share air, there's no need for any back up on any rec dive. For deeper more technical dives (or deep solo dives) - get a set of doubles.


I
 
For a person that does not have any plans to exceed recreational depths, my 6cf works just fine. I have tested it coming up from 30 meters without trouble.

Furthermore, I would have to have some type of catastrophic failure in the first few minutes of a dive to even come close to sucking up that bottle. Why the first few minuets… Well, because I always plan my profile to start at the deepest portion of the dive and work shallower. My concern is not running out of air, it is equipment failure.

As a conservative diver I am responsible for my risk management, so when and if I decide to get involved in cave diving or tec diving I may reevaluate. But from my tests, I know that 6 cf will get me from 30 meters to the surface, and not exceed a safe accent speed. (Note: I am in good physical condition, and that may not work for every one.)

This is based on inserting the pony bottle second stage in my mouth, taking one breath, planning my swimming ascent, taking another breath and starting to exhale while swimming up. And so on. From thirty meters I use almost 4 cf. Believe it or not I use more air when I don’t take the first breath to relax and ready for my swim.

In regards to the comment about being a young AI, the reason I have chosen to continue working my way the certification process is to expand my knowledge base. I do not have any plans on conducting any dive instruction. I am a practicing flight instructor (Multi-engine instrument instructor with a little more than 2000 hours of dual given and a 100% pass rate for my students)

Thanks for the feed back, I look forward to learning from the vast diversity of divers on this site.

And no, I would not have my tank overfilled.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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