Yeeesh - way over tightened

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The hot and cold treatment is to allow expansion and contraction to maximize the gap between the two stuck components. It may take some time but does tend to work well in some cases. Unfortunately, in this case where you may be dealing with thread damage and the results of that damage binding (and moving) in the threads, it could only be marginally effective. It is brass so you will eventually overpower the weak point and it will let go.

As far as using JB weld to seal that port, it is clearly a shade tree mechanic's solution that I would probably use on one of my regs if I needed to. Make sure there are at least enough threads left to let it get a good grip. If it does fail, there will be a leak, probably pretty small, that can be dealt with.

But the right way would be to replace the damaged component. If it is an LP port in a BP swivel (turret) it would probably be cost effective. If the port in in the body, It would probably be cheaper to replace the entire stage and bank the good parts.
 
I kind of doubt that it's cross-threaded; I have a feeling that a cross threaded hose fitting would cause the o-ring to extrude.

If it were my reg, I'd cut the hose, use a file to try to clean up the edges on the stripped part of the fitting, and try a really tight fitting box end; you'll have to tap it on with a hammer and a length of pipe that fits over the hose and pushes on the box end wrench. If that doesn't work it's probably time for a new reg. What kind is it anyways? After all this discussion, maybe it will turn out to be an old Dacor...
 
Did you drill the end of the crack first?

No, sadly I couldn't. It was only intended as a temporary "fix" until I could to a proper repair.

Sorry about the off-topic :dork2:

Hope John has the stuck hose sorted out by now.

Best wishes.
 
I kind of doubt that it's cross-threaded; I have a feeling that a cross threaded hose fitting would cause the o-ring to extrude.

If it were my reg, I'd cut the hose, use a file to try to clean up the edges on the stripped part of the fitting, and try a really tight fitting box end; you'll have to tap it on with a hammer and a length of pipe that fits over the hose and pushes on the box end wrench. If that doesn't work it's probably time for a new reg. What kind is it anyways? After all this discussion, maybe it will turn out to be an old Dacor...

Regs are 12mnth old AL Legend Supreme LX ACD. So not that cheap to replace.

My spider sense tells me it's not crossed threaded too for the reason you suggest above - I can't see how you'd not get a leak if you cross threaded which would leave the o-ring unsnug.

The boys that (I think) did it were really strong and into showing masculine strength. I'm guessing it's just over tightened and that my equipment here isn't good enough to unloosen without doing too much damage or without making it even more difficult to loosen with proper kit. So I've stopped trying and will bring it down the shop next week.

But I sure as hell hope there's no damage on the first stage. The hose I've already consigned to the dustbin, no worries there, but I'll be pissed if my reg is hurt.

Thanks again for your input!

J
 
Not a necessity, but they make the job easier! :blinking: The use of a 1st stage handle often allows me to avoid the use of a vice... I can often take the 1st stage completely apart "by hand", less chance of scratching the body that way.

I've been know to use whatever is at hand... eraser end of a pencil and the body of a cheap ball point pen are two of my favorites when the "special" factory tools needed for reassembling 1st and 2nd stages are not available... but I've encountered 1st stage diaphragm retainer nuts so overtightened that the 1st stage spun in the soft jawed vice (but I was using a 2' extension on the pin spanner....and a deadblow hammer.... I won in the end :D).

Best wishes.
It was just a harmless jab :p


...If the 1st stage spun in the vice I would argue that you're doing it wrong though. Put the 1st stage in long ways with whatever you need access to pointing up and it wont budge even if barely tightened down :).
 
It was just a harmless jab :p


...If the 1st stage spun in the vice I would argue that you're doing it wrong though. Put the 1st stage in long ways with whatever you need access to pointing up and it wont budge even if barely tightened down :).

Hi Doc,

I'd agree for 90% of cases, but not all.... in the case I was talking about, the 1st stage was in the vice as you describe, but the diaphragm retaining nut is on the end of the stage. This creates a big lever arm that will overpower the soft vice jaws if you are using a long wrench. The previous owner or tech had severely overtightened the diaphragm retaining nut.... I'm a big guy (6'5, 260 lbs) and even using an extension on the pin spanner wrench could not budge it.... thus the final resort was the deadblow hammer.... the nut freed and stage spun at the same instant... any more force and I was afraid of "breaking" either the wrench, stage body or vice.

Moral: Do not overtighten... :wink:

But yeah, in the vast majority of cases what you describe would work fine I think.

Best wishes
 
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A gorilla and a wrench is a bad combination.
 
Inthedrink,

You have some seriously bad luck in the gear department recently, I hope to heck you don't have to order any replacement parts internationally for this project or you may miss the whole dive season!

If you have already trashed the hose cut it off at the fitting, get a deep well six point socket and put that over the fitting. If you have already rounded the corners of the fitting, just tap the socket on, then use a rachet or better yet a breaker bar. Use a vise to carefully clamp the reg while you do so. If you don't have these kind of tools, you may have to take it to the shop.

A note on JB weld, first it is a great product. Second, there is an even more amazing variation on it. "Plumers Epoxy" is just like JB weld but can be put onto a WET surface and will cure UNDER WATER. I used some for a swimming pool repair and it is fantastic. It is great for emergency boat repairs below the waterline. You can get it at most home centers in the plumbing isle.

Best of luck.
 
too bad a first stage has stuff in it that precludes the use of the "hot wrench" torch to get the fitting off, that would be so simple.
 
too bad a first stage has stuff in it that precludes the use of the "hot wrench" torch to get the fitting off, that would be so simple.

I have used the hot wrench many times on valves. If done right it usually doesn't damage anything. I don't recall ever doing it on a regulator.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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