Bolt Snap for Primary Reg

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Ben_ca:
Cave line... There a way to tie it so that your bolt snap stands up and stays rigid (without purple pills :) ) 3 loops around then reverse around and between the boltsnap then overhand... square off and burn.

A lot easier to show and tell... not sure I can explain even on the phone... Compudude do you know LimeyX? He knows how
So as an experiment I decided to attach it per the usual methods, cranked down REALLY tight, and I also added an extra (4th) loop in an effort to smooth out the wear on the hose. Attaching at the metal seemed far too close to the reg... does this look ok? Note that it is indeed tight enough that the snap stands out all on it's own, although it will swivel back and forth approx 30 degrees. Of course, this has never been wet, so perhaps it will loosen up a bit with time and use.
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My SPG is attached to it's bolt snap in a similar variation, but their extra loop is along the long side of the knot, which gives some extra room between the SPG and bolt snap. This is how the nice folks at TDL connected it for me:
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What say, does it pass DIR muster?

Both bolts snaps are "small" (5/8") from TDL, btw. http://tdl.divebiz.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12_26&products_id=40 A little bigger than called for on the 5thd site, but also easier to work with thick gloves on.

Sorry for derailing the thread... although it's at least related to the OP's topic. :)
 
Nice knot...
For my knot on the primary, I also throw a zip tie on the hose just to the first stage side of the knot, so that when the knot eventually loosens a bit, it doesn't start walking up the hose.

BTW, as Ben pointed out earlier in the thread, I was also taught that the sizes were 3/8 for primary, 1/2 for light and 3/4 for SPG...
 
CompuDude:
Attaching at the metal seemed far too close to the reg... does this look ok?
IMHO, no. Use the same method used for SPG. Addind 4th or 5th loop won't prevent bolt snap sliding. There are at least two reasons why you want it to be on the same place:
- when you need to clip it off
- when your team member needs to see at one glance what you are breathing (boltsnap or bungie) e.g. in case of reg/valve failure.

You have to be aware that maybe in some circumstances you'll have to cut this knot. Having 4 loops around hose far away from metal can make a tricky situation especialy in some emergency.

BTW drop of super-glue in knot makes wonders in preventing knot untie.
 
I have to respectfully disagree wiht Monkseal I don't see anything wrong with it... Looks pretty good to me.


Find out when MHK is teaching his next class and have him look things over... in hte meanwhile zip tie your backplate on put on your gloves and just work the boltsnaps while you are watching TV... get a feel for them clipping on and off.... if they work they work.
 
Ben_ca:
I have to respectfully disagree wiht Monkseal I don't see anything wrong with it... Looks pretty good to me.
Well, my points are:
- it can slip
- if you have to cut it's better to be tied to metal rather then to hose

But it's me :)
 
MonkSeal:
- if you have to cut it's better to be tied to metal rather then to hose

I never understood this one. Why/when would you have to cut the boltsnap from your primary?

If you become entangled (most probably line -fishing, cave, wreck) then you take out the primary, go to back up and cut away the line. If sharing gas, buddy should help with that.

And BTW if one gets entangled into something that close to the face...... you are probably not watching out enough or not 'doing it right'.

I would even venture to say that if you get entangled, you cut away the entanglement, not the snap to create a more dangerous situation (for instance with spg now being unsecured and floating around... looking for something to snag into). ????:confused:
 
Meng_Tze:
I never understood this one. Why/when would you have to cut the boltsnap from your primary?
You're probably right. I think about it as a general principle.
 
Thanks for the responses!

I think I'll leave it as "provisionally ok" for now, although that's a valid point about cutting it off the hose vs. metal, as unlikely as that scenario may be. I'll see what the instructor thinks when I get ready for Fundies. If it has to move 1/2" onto the metal to make them happy, so be it, meanwhile, I'll wait and see how it does in the water. I'm not doing any overhead dives anytime soon, just easy stuff, so any problems with it are off-the-charts unlikely.

I will go ahead and add zip ties on either side to help prevent slippage in either direction.

Excellent tip with the superglue, btw... I'll have to do that. The burning and melting is supposed to help prevent that, but I can see how sg would add to the safety factor.

Thanks, all!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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