Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
Ditto for all but my long hose SM reg which has a small zip tie that can be yank free from my d-ring if needed. I have learned that this needs too be replaced periodically and not cut flush.
So is humor snark or snark humor or can the difference not be seen? I also use the Velcro strips on all the retractors I use. The plastic snap gets replaced by a brass snap secured by velcro.
o-rings and inner tube sections have a tendency to fail at inopportune moments; not a big deal with a light head or 2nd stage because they remain attached to the diver but reels and non-canister lights can fall way and be lost or just the bolt snaps can be lost...at @ $4 to $10 a piece, the bolt snaps are a small investment in and of themselves.
I voted cave line since the question was how do you "tie" your bolt snaps, and I always tie all bolt snaps the way the ISE video shows. Reasons for melting the ends back being beaten to death above. I don't usually use superglue, but that's mainly because I never seem to have it around and frankly couldn't be bothered.
For my second stages though, I use a bungee prusik loop that was stolen/adapted from a video that Brett Hemphill released many years ago. One of the posts about it with pictures below. I find this to be a vastly improved method of dealing with second stages than traditional bolt snap locations Longhose bungeed bolt snap
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.