My Rix SA-6 Diesel

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So would the WIKA made gauges from Germany be a happy median?

My guess is this, after you read my post and looked up what quality American products there are your having a re think on going down the Amazon for your gauges. (pun intended)

Now I wouldnt expect you to consider WIKA Germany when actually the cheaper range we are discussing is made in Poland. But do consider WIKA USA it's a slightly different case style for the American marked 2-1/2" rather than 63mm and the pitch center diameter (if you went down the front flange 3 hole fixing panel mount design) is also different

Also 1/4 NPT taper is the thread you need and not the European 1/4G (gas) which is a BSPT British Standard Pipe Taper. And you dont need it in PSI and BAR or Kpa, just PSI would be fine.

I did also look up the Rix gauge in USA and they are a bit expensive your side of the pond at $130 for your project application and budget I could get one new from UK stock for $80 but the postage payment etc would be problematic.
Not much call for Rix gauge in PSI in Europe apart from the USAF bases. Used to also have loads of them at the USN submarine base in Scotland but they closed it down.

I will have a look at the WIKA spec over here for reference as I dont memorize model numbers But the 63mm bottom entry 1/4 NPT with the brass stem and with frit are around £15, The fully stainless with all the above and a dampened movement your up in the £40 to £68 mark
 
My guess is this, after you read my post and looked up what quality American products there are your having a re think on going down the Amazon for your gauges. (pun intended)

Now I wouldnt expect you to consider WIKA Germany when actually the cheaper range we are discussing is made in Poland. But do consider WIKA USA it's a slightly different case style for the American marked 2-1/2" rather than 63mm and the pitch center diameter (if you went down the front flange 3 hole fixing panel mount design) is also different

Also 1/4 NPT taper is the thread you need and not the European 1/4G (gas) which is a BSPT British Standard Pipe Taper. And you dont need it in PSI and BAR or Kpa, just PSI would be fine.

I did also look up the Rix gauge in USA and they are a bit expensive your side of the pond at $130 for your project application and budget I could get one new from UK stock for $80 but the postage payment etc would be problematic.
Not much call for Rix gauge in PSI in Europe apart from the USAF bases. Used to also have loads of them at the USN submarine base in Scotland but they closed it down.

I do appreciate you keeping up with this thread;

Are these acceptable?
Filled Gauge 7500 PSI/BAR - Pressure Gauge BAUER GAG-0070W
 
50626387107_0c93d4de2c_b.jpg

I will try and get this photo to load later but it shows the gauge used to measure the outlet pressure
WIKA all stainless and safety pattern (in BAR) not PSI (for us lot and not relevant for you lot lol)

Also note that blue spring you need to turn your compressor by hand looking very carefully at that spring if if moves dont attempt a start the unit is our of parrallax between the swash plate and the piston rods. Easy to adjust until its parallel with the thrust riders seated below but can cause damage and premature wear if its clattering about.
 
50626391762_f0baa198b9_b.jpg

Again I need to sort out a decent photo viewer to load photos onto the forum
But this photo shows pretty much your SA-6 although at the works in build at the back end flywheel side
From this view point the driven and driver pulleys (when fitted) need to rotate counter clockwise

What you need to assess is that all those cooling tubes are not touching each other especially
on the left side J shaped bend where the 3/8 stainless tube from the 2nd stage separator turns up into
the 3rd stage head inlet side.

Also check that the driven pulley (not shown) is also not rammed onto the crankshaft so much
that it is touching the 1/2" first stage cooling coil. Both will wear holes in the stainless tubing and both are expensive mistakes to make.
 
50626291121_5ffb15b3f6_b.jpg

The third photo shows the interstage pressure gauge its 0-60 bar
You just need to direct mount a botton entry 1/4NPT gauge in PSI where your 2nd stage relief valve is fitted using an additional tube fitting called a Male Branch Tee the relief valve is repositioned at 90 degree and the gauge mounted on top.

I can mock up a build for you if you like

In your application my preference would be to mount the gauge only when you need to see interstage pressure otherwise a poor choice of gauge will vibrate itself to death if you permanantly mount it direct into the separator. Note the position in the build photo its off the block on an anti vibration mount. The gauge is also made by WIKA but is filled with Skydrol (dont ask) its not suitable for your application
 
I do appreciate you keeping up with this thread;

Are these acceptable?
Filled Gauge 7500 PSI/BAR - Pressure Gauge BAUER GAG-0070W

I'm not going to answer that question because by the time we finish with this thread I trust you will know.

What I can tell you is what you need to consider, I can point you in the right direction sure, I can offer advise for your consideration. What I can't do is to give you experience you need to gain that for yourself.

But I give you this from the first line of the advert they state "Highest quality liquid filled gauge"

Now what do you think after all those references we have listed earlier, Highest Quality? :D
 
I trust your begining to like this thread that was another great question.

Now hear this.

You should also consider a problem facing scuba compressor supply companies.
and the ultimate conclusion your purchasing decisions will impart.

We kicked off the thread with a $13 piece of junk out of China from Amazon.
Good enough some may say, works OK say others and they are not wrong.
Heck you cant buy a Big Mac with fries for that.

But consider this that the compressor you have is no longer manufactured for recreational divers
in the USA, ask your self why. Its not a junk compressor its not even a bad design in fact the design
being Mil-Spec is pretty bomb proof literally.

Yet lack of sales to scuba divers reduced it to the point of no return in the sports diving industry
I spent over 10 years flying over from England to do the DEMA scuba trade shows dragging that thing from Orlando to Houston to Las Vagas and the only thing good I can recall are the great corn fed steaks you guys enjoy.

Your decision as others to purchace will affect your future and the future of diving compressor experts as have been mentioned on this thread earlier like August Industries and Compressed Air Specialities.
If we as a group carry on buying junk from China there will be no corn fed streaks for me in Vagas and I'm not yet ready to accept a point when you guys can only serve those Big Macs.

So a $30 gauge from WIKA made in the USA may need a little more consideration from you before Jeff Bezos makes another $10 out of you. (on that $3 piece of junk out of China)
 
I trust your begining to like this thread that was another great question.

Now hear this.

You should also consider a problem facing scuba compressor supply companies.
and the ultimate conclusion your purchasing decisions will impart.

We kicked off the thread with a $13 piece of junk out of China from Amazon.
Good enough some may say, works OK say others and they are not wrong.
Heck you cant buy a Big Mac with fries for that.

But consider this that the compressor you have is no longer manufactured for recreational divers
in the USA, ask your self why. Its not a junk compressor its not even a bad design in fact the design
being Mil-Spec is pretty bomb proof literally.

Yet lack of sales to scuba divers reduced it to the point of no return in the sports diving industry
I spent over 10 years flying over from England to do the DEMA scuba trade shows dragging that thing from Orlando to Houston to Las Vagas and the only thing good I can recall are the great corn fed steaks you guys enjoy.

Your decision as others to purchace will affect your future and the future of diving compressor experts as have been mentioned on this thread earlier like August Industries and Compressed Air Specialities.
If we as a group carry on buying junk from China there will be no corn fed streaks for me in Vagas and I'm not yet ready to accept a point when you guys can only serve those Big Macs.

So a $30 gauge from WIKA made in the USA may need a little more consideration from you before Jeff Bezos makes another $10 out of you. (on that $3 piece of junk out of China)

@iain/hsm I am not opposed to buying the right stuff the 1st time, I just didn't know there was such a huge gap between gauges. To me (not being a gauge expert) looking at a glass face gauge with a brass or stainless steel bottom filled with liquid or another they all look the same. I honestly didn't know.

For accuracy and safety sake I have no issue spending another $15 / gauge to get something that's right. So WIKA it is then.

Since you've been such a tremendous help, do you have a recommendation how I can monitor engine hours on the Yenmar 1 cylinder diesel engine? Mine does not have electric start or stop of any kind. I have installed a few engine meters on small gas engines and that's no problem, but I'm coming up empty with this little Yenmar.
 
50626391762_f0baa198b9_b.jpg

Again I need to sort out a decent photo viewer to load photos onto the forum
But this photo shows pretty much your SA-6 although at the works in build at the back end flywheel side
From this view point the driven and driver pulleys (when fitted) need to rotate counter clockwise

What you need to assess is that all those cooling tubes are not touching each other especially
on the left side J shaped bend where the 3/8 stainless tube from the 2nd stage separator turns up into
the 3rd stage head inlet side.

Also check that the driven pulley (not shown) is also not rammed onto the crankshaft so much
that it is touching the 1/2" first stage cooling coil. Both will wear holes in the stainless tubing and both are expensive mistakes to make.

I am hoping to find some time to pull the shroud off this week or next. At work this is our busy time of the year with heating season, but after Thanksgiving we tend to slow up a bit. I will take / post some pictures.

50626291121_5ffb15b3f6_b.jpg

The third photo shows the interstage pressure gauge its 0-60 bar
You just need to direct mount a botton entry 1/4NPT gauge in PSI where your 2nd stage relief valve is fitted using an additional tube fitting called a Male Branch Tee the relief valve is repositioned at 90 degree and the gauge mounted on top.

I can mock up a build for you if you like

In your application my preference would be to mount the gauge only when you need to see interstage pressure otherwise a poor choice of gauge will vibrate itself to death if you permanantly mount it direct into the separator. Note the position in the build photo its off the block on an anti vibration mount. The gauge is also made by WIKA but is filled with Skydrol (dont ask) its not suitable for your application

I'd be very happy if you mocked up a build for me. Your information and pictures have been incredible, so much so that I have to read your posts a few times to try and retain everything.

Can I ask what the vent is for? It was my understanding that the coalescers should remain under pressure, or is that just during operation? I am assuming you would vent after filling and shutting things down, but can you explain why?
 
So here are some pictures with the shroud and the belt cover off. Everything moves as it should, blue spring doesn't move at all. Except for some surface rust from sitting really looks in good shape. I need to clean the excess grease off in some spots, but overall I'm pretty excited. Seems like a very well thought out / engineered unit, but also easy to service.

I'm not an expert, but pretty neat layout.

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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