My Rix SA-6 Diesel

[NAM001]

Thanks. I actually just pulled the trigger yesterday and ordered a bunch of fittings from August. Whips, PMV, check valve, valves....I hope I got everything.

I got enough stuff to have gauges everywhere but also to remove / cap them fairly easy.

I might remove the belt and try starting just the engine next week and hopefully cleaning it up some. Grease is on the way.

the rix needs 5 hp or better to run so a 220 1ph motor is easy to find. Just have to make sure foot print is right and the pully size on the motor is right to get the correct compressor speed. I can help a lot with getting theat set up also. Just make sure you get the right pully form rix for the shaft size to make sure the belt has the same groove on both pulleys. To make it easy get a motor that has the same shaft size as the engine or get an adaptor to make the shaft bigger. That is what I did when I changed motors. the engine shaft size was IE 3/4 and the motor had a 1/2 shaft. got an adaptor to go from 1/2 to 3/4 and it ran great. If your compressor does not have a foot print for the motor you will have to make a rig to make it work. Its not a simple drill and bolt down. Ill send pics of mine also in desired. mt contraption allows the engine to be moved laterally to allign belts and longitudaly to tighten belts and to rotate the motor a few degrees to allign pullys to parrallel.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

my filter on my sa6 ran 5 years and was still good. I changed it any way. teflon with the steel shielding,, on it,,, is neither designated as oil of air. teflon is the interface with the air going through it. The thing is JIC connectors are normally seen in hydrolic applications as opposed to air. The rix uses a JIC connector on its output. I have a bad rod and a head on my SDA6 and am now using a bauer capitano. I just moved everything over to the bauer. As the cooler goes it has to be just prior to the final moisture separator before the filter. Ill be glad to give you any info I can. Ill send some pics if you want from my RIX and of my bauer setup if you want. those teflon design lines I use for hydrolic propane and SCBA applications. i dont interchange them,,, but the same line type works on all uses. Are you planning on using the compressor ass a portable unit to take to a dive site or a fixed unit at home? It can be made to work either way.

I uploaded a pic of my filter. My Rix has probably has a few different things, for one it has a Parker female QD on the output of the 3rd stage. I have a male QD on the way with my order. I don't believe there are many if any JIC connectors, but I have plenty on the way. My rix resides in a box, and for now I'd like it to remain in the box and be able to disconnect the filter after the 3rd stage to do so (I will have the appropriate check valve so the tower doesn't loose pressure). I'd "like" it to remain portable to be able to make small road trips, but I'm fully aware that most people just buy more tanks for their trip and I can see how that would be easier. For now though, portable would be great.

I've never asked the hydrolic place if they had different lines, I was only ever there to get stuff for our machinery, but it's a huge place I can call and ask. For now I think I got what I need from August.

lets swap pics of what we have and hopfully get the best of all worlds as a result.

I sent a pm to a link with all of my pictures. Please feel free to take a look. The parts should be here next week or so from August. My rix has zero plumbing done from the compressor to the tower, nor does it have any whips....all that's coming.

the rix needs 5 hp or better to run so a 220 1ph motor is easy to find. Just have to make sure foot print is right and the pully size on the motor is right to get the correct compressor speed. I can help a lot with getting theat set up also. Just make sure you get the right pully form rix for the shaft size to make sure the belt has the same groove on both pulleys. To make it easy get a motor that has the same shaft size as the engine or get an adaptor to make the shaft bigger. That is what I did when I changed motors. the engine shaft size was IE 3/4 and the motor had a 1/2 shaft. got an adaptor to go from 1/2 to 3/4 and it ran great. If your compressor does not have a foot print for the motor you will have to make a rig to make it work. Its not a simple drill and bolt down. Ill send pics of mine also in desired. mt contraption allows the engine to be moved laterally to allign belts and longitudaly to tighten belts and to rotate the motor a few degrees to allign pullys to parrallel.

For now it's ran from a Yenmar diesel engine (see pic). This falls in line with being mobile. I know most people go with electric at some point. At the very least I'd like to look into it....keep all my options open.


I hope what I've written makes sense. I REALLY appreciate everyone's guidance. I've said it before and I'll say it again, I am VERY green with HP compressors, and have never touched a rix before buying one... just throwing up my little white flag to say I know nothing.

 

[tbone1004]

the rix needs 5 hp or better to run so a 220 1ph motor is easy to find. Just have to make sure foot print is right and the pully size on the motor is right to get the correct compressor speed. I can help a lot with getting theat set up also. Just make sure you get the right pully form rix for the shaft size to make sure the belt has the same groove on both pulleys. To make it easy get a motor that has the same shaft size as the engine or get an adaptor to make the shaft bigger. That is what I did when I changed motors. the engine shaft size was IE 3/4 and the motor had a 1/2 shaft. got an adaptor to go from 1/2 to 3/4 and it ran great. If your compressor does not have a foot print for the motor you will have to make a rig to make it work. Its not a simple drill and bolt down. Ill send pics of mine also in desired. mt contraption allows the engine to be moved laterally to allign belts and longitudaly to tighten belts and to rotate the motor a few degrees to allign pullys to parrallel.

if you go electric, seriously consider going to 3-phase motors. With the single phase you need a soft starter anyway and since the 3p motors are typically cheaper than the 1p motors the cost is about a wash but it gives you the ability to ramp it up slowly to seat the third stage, but also to adjust fill rates if you are filling small bottles or just want to generate less heat. It's also a much more efficient use of electricity at around 85-90% up from around 60% with single phase..

 

[Geo7]

if you go electric, seriously consider going to 3-phase motors.

That's a great tip! As a european who moved to US, I was perplexed at how much heavier the single phase motor made a compressor. With a VFD, as you have described in previous posts, the thing becomes lighter and so adaptable to travel, if I understood correctly.

I was considering a Capitano, as manuals, parts, expertise are easily available. Since I recently found out about Rix, I am now considering an electric SA6 with a VFD and an onboard horizontally mounted, self-packable filter, all inside the frame. That would make it a portable unit.

I would only fill a couple tanks per week, no banks. My question is whether going with slightly slower RPM and smaller motor, thereby reducing the fill rate to say 5 cfm, would noticeably reduce a) motor weight, b) VFD cost, c) noise, and b) heat (I am in SoCal)? But if the noise is the same, then the original spec 6 cfm will at least disturb neighbors for a shorter time...

I don't see myself filling nitrox, but self-packing filters seems free of risk with an electrical RIX, and it seems you can let it sit in storage with no penalty? A Bauer needs a simple "winterizing" procedure for storage of > 6 months according to the manual, and special instructions can be requested for storage > 2 years. The Rix should not need any of that? The size, weight and fillrate of the SA6 in combination with self-packable filters and no need for oil change make it an attractive option for me (intermittent use).

But I guess my bigger question is the longterm cost of an oil-less SA6 vs a Capitano, when filling a couple of tanks per week. I don't know anyone who had to replace expensive parts in the bigger Bauers over decades, just oil and filters (valves at 2000h and cost is reasonable). What parts would you expect to wear out on a Rix when used as specified? All I have to go by is the scheduled maintanance in the 1S3B-6 manual Iain has sent out to RBW years ago...

 

[tbone1004]

@Geo7

a-motors are typically sized incrementally, so you would go from 5hp down to 3hp which is an appreciable weight drop. Staying with 3600rpm motors, you will probably save about 20lbs going from a 5hp to a 3hp motor
b- not really
c-no, the noise is created by the fan and the intake, so if you want to reduce noise you need to get a much higher end intake filter. Something like the silencer series from Solberg helps tremendously. The fan can also be taken from direct drive to electric which helps
d-heat is going to be lower with a lower RPM

Rix has a much higher parts cost than Bauer, but if you are only filling a few tanks a week it will be well over a decade before it needs anything, especially if it is rebuilt or close to it when you purchase.

 

[Geo7]

Thanks! That helps a lot. I did not know about the Solberg silencers...

So 3HP at lower RPM (900?) and perhaps 3.5 cfm would save ca. 20lbs of weight. Defeinteley an option to consider, though I am still not sure about trying to rebuild it to original specs. Then the noise would be over before the neighors locate the source

A decade of trouble free use with no oil change and refillable filters is attractive, and then in a compact size. How much do you think an SA6 in excellent condition should be worth?

 

[tbone1004]

Thanks! That helps a lot. I did not know about the Solberg silencers...

So 3HP at lower RPM (900?) and perhaps 3.5 cfm would save ca. 20lbs of weight. Defeinteley an option to consider, though I am still not sure about trying to rebuild it to original specs. Then the noise would be over before the neighors locate the source

A decade of trouble free use with no oil change and refillable filters is attractive, and then in a compact size. How much do you think an SA6 in excellent condition should be worth?

I would put the 5hp motor in there and put a VFD on there. Can always slow it down. I think the electric ones are still over 200lbs without a filter stack, so I'm not sure the 20lbs on the motor is going to be significant in terms saving weight.

Current prices are between $2k-$3k depending on area and condition.

 

[NAM001]

if you go electric, seriously consider going to 3-phase motors. With the single phase you need a soft starter anyway and since the 3p motors are typically cheaper than the 1p motors the cost is about a wash but it gives you the ability to ramp it up slowly to seat the third stage, but also to adjust fill rates if you are filling small bottles or just want to generate less heat. It's also a much more efficient use of electricity at around 85-90% up from around 60% with single phase..

what would you think a motor generator could be made for. a 7-10 hp motor running at low load driving a 3 ph generator

 

[tbone1004]

what would you think a motor generator could be made for. a 7-10 hp motor running at low load driving a 3 ph generator

not understanding the question. Are you talking about making a 7-10hp 3-phase generator from a 3p electric motor and a gas engine? If you're doing that you really want a 3-phase alternator and those are a couple grand for that size. Low load doesn't really mean much though since you need to size match them for max load, they'll just be more efficient when "cruising"

 

[NAM001]

not understanding the question. Are you talking about making a 7-10hp 3-phase generator from a 3p electric motor and a gas engine? If you're doing that you really want a 3-phase alternator and those are a couple grand for that size. Low load doesn't really mean much though since you need to size match them for max load, they'll just be more efficient when "cruising"

no I meant using a 5-10 horse motor driving a 3 ph generator to make the 3ph for the motor. I doubt that he has 3 ph at his location only 220 1ph from the power line. with larger than 5 hp motor it would not draw the high end per design power from the house. Run the larger motor at half load capability rather than a 5 hp running at say 90% load capacity