My Rix SA-6 Diesel

[rob.mwpropane]

One question I had, (I guess I can dig through the manual), where / how / best to grease the lower bearings (in the last 2 pictures)?

 

[NAM001]

Great...how would I tell what it is? IF this was a regular check valve my plan was to exchange it for a PMV and place it on the inlet of the external filter tower. Then add another PMV after the external filter tower.

Does that make sense?

start your compressor and if air comes out of the whip quickly then the device is a check valve. . If it takes some time before air comes out of the whip then it is a PMV / back pressure regulator. Have a gage on the compressor prior to the PMV and then a gage on the whip near the fill end. with those 2 gages ;;you can set up your PMV's and monitor the tank pressure. Check valves in your case may not be essential for your needs. Normally check valves are on the whips to stop gas from moving from one tank to another when filling multiple tanks with multiple whips at the same time.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

start your compressor and if air comes out of the whip quickly then the device is a check valve. . If it takes some time before air comes out of the whip then it is a PMV / back pressure regulator. Have a gage on the compressor prior to the PMV and then a gage on the whip near the fill end. with those 2 gages ;;you can set up your PMV's and monitor the tank pressure. Check valves in your case may not be essential for your needs. Normally check valves are on the whips to stop gas from moving from one tank to another when filling multiple tanks with multiple whips at the same time.

Thanks. I actually just pulled the trigger yesterday and ordered a bunch of fittings from August. Whips, PMV, check valve, valves....I hope I got everything.

I got enough stuff to have gauges everywhere but also to remove / cap them fairly easy.

I might remove the belt and try starting just the engine next week and hopefully cleaning it up some. Grease is on the way.

 

[NAM001]

Thanks. I actually just pulled the trigger yesterday and ordered a bunch of fittings from August. Whips, PMV, check valve, valves....I hope I got everything.

I got enough stuff to have gauges everywhere but also to remove / cap them fairly easy.

I might remove the belt and try starting just the engine next week and hopefully cleaning it up some. Grease is on the way.

the rix greese for the connecting rods is critical to keeping it running for longer periods. Good to hear you went to august. I use them also. parts are cheap hoses are perhaps dollar a foot 5 for a fitting and 5 for pressing on fittings. have lots of JIC's to 1/4 fittings, as so many things use them. I also use a lot of swagelock QD fittings. Caution with them. disconnect only when the pressure is vented. Force to connect has to exceed the line force, and check valves have a lot to do with that also. When you get into nitrox blending, with QD fittings , you can physically use the same fill whip for both. I can help you with that also if needed. using an engine will mean you should beyond doubt have a filter with monoxicon in it for the CO. Of course have your compressor suck up wind and engine exhaust down wind. Keep your eye out for the steel braded HP line. it is great for filling with as it is not as stiff like normal hose. Most of those hoses have JIC fittings. Unless changed, JIC fittings are what is used for the RIX fill whip connection. You can also use 50 feet of it and coil it in a bucket of ice water to cool the final discharge for greater water removal. JIC fittings , if not mistakes , are normally hydrolic fittings so the hose is also hydrolic. find the hose that is teflon wrapped in steel brading and it will work.


Regards

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Thanks @KWS. Lots to read through on that. I bought 2' hose to connect to the additional filter tower I have, and then I have 2 5' sections ran from a t after the PMV of the tower for 2 fill whips (both whips have valves with blenders so I can keep rolling). I did not get check valves on these, but for right now I'm only filling air. Nitrox soon through a stick, but even then it'll be the same mix for all tanks.

I'm sure I'll have questions when it all gets here

 

[rob.mwpropane]

start your compressor and if air comes out of the whip quickly then the device is a check valve. . If it takes some time before air comes out of the whip then it is a PMV / back pressure regulator. Have a gage on the compressor prior to the PMV and then a gage on the whip near the fill end. with those 2 gages ;;you can set up your PMV's and monitor the tank pressure. Check valves in your case may not be essential for your needs. Normally check valves are on the whips to stop gas from moving from one tank to another when filling multiple tanks with multiple whips at the same time.

I wanted to add, the only parts that I got were from August. We do have a hydraulic hose place we deal with, the next time I'm there I'll see what they have. Ordering a few JIC fittings and have them press would be super cheap, even compared to August.

Interesting about the coil to remove water. I have a Lawrence Factor filter with molecular sieve, CO remover, and carbon I believe. I got a visual indicator and disk (10/20/30). Plan is to change filter when it reaches 20%. From my understanding the air coming from here should be pretty good to go....at least that's my hope.

 

[Geo7]

Thanks for this thread! I am now considering following your footsteps next year if I can find a nice SA6, so this info is very helpful...

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Thanks for this thread! I am now considering following your footsteps next year if I can find a nice SA6, so this info is very helpful...

I need you to step it up a little....so I can learn just as much from you!!

Jk, good luck. It's been fun so far

 

[NAM001]

I wanted to add, the only parts that I got were from August. We do have a hydraulic hose place we deal with, the next time I'm there I'll see what they have. Ordering a few JIC fittings and have them press would be super cheap, even compared to August.

Interesting about the coil to remove water. I have a Lawrence Factor filter with molecular sieve, CO remover, and carbon I believe. I got a visual indicator and disk (10/20/30). Plan is to change filter when it reaches 20%. From my understanding the air coming from here should be pretty good to go....at least that's my hope.

my filter on my sa6 ran 5 years and was still good. I changed it any way. teflon with the steel shielding,, on it,,, is neither designated as oil of air. teflon is the interface with the air going through it. The thing is JIC connectors are normally seen in hydrolic applications as opposed to air. The rix uses a JIC connector on its output. I have a bad rod and a head on my SDA6 and am now using a bauer capitano. I just moved everything over to the bauer. As the cooler goes it has to be just prior to the final moisture separator before the filter. Ill be glad to give you any info I can. Ill send some pics if you want from my RIX and of my bauer setup if you want. those teflon design lines I use for hydrolic propane and SCBA applications. i dont interchange them,,, but the same line type works on all uses. Are you planning on using the compressor ass a portable unit to take to a dive site or a fixed unit at home? It can be made to work either way.

 

[NAM001]

Thanks @KWS. Lots to read through on that. I bought 2' hose to connect to the additional filter tower I have, and then I have 2 5' sections ran from a t after the PMV of the tower for 2 fill whips (both whips have valves with blenders so I can keep rolling). I did not get check valves on these, but for right now I'm only filling air. Nitrox soon through a stick, but even then it'll be the same mix for all tanks.

I'm sure I'll have questions when it all gets here

lets swap pics of what we have and hopfully get the best of all worlds as a result.