The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates.

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Getting closer. I’m buried now with jobs because I’ve been basically off for a week and a half.
Things are finally getting back to normal.
Thanks for all your (and everyone’s) support.

@Eric Sedletzky , forgive me if it was said somewhere in this 39 (!!!) page thread, but I read you mentioning an aluminum plate. Any idea when that might be happening? I'd like to get my hands on 2! Thanks!
 
Has anyone tried pairing the FP with an Apeks WTX-D18 Single Cylinder Wing ?

How did it work out ?

Thanks
 
Has anyone tried pairing the FP with an Apeks WTX-D18 Single Cylinder Wing ?

How did it work out ?

Thanks

That wing and the Mares XR appear to be visually the same. See Post 211 for a pic of how the plate mates up. Keep your fingers crossed. Hope to get that combination in the pool tomorrow.
 
That wing and the Mares XR appear to be visually the same. See Post 211 for a pic of how the plate mates up. Keep your fingers crossed. Hope to get that combination in the pool tomorrow.

Yes, the pictures of the Mares XR on post 211 The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates. look very similar to the Apeks WTX-D18, though the Mares has 5lbs more lift than the Apeks. I'm hopeful the holes and gaskets line up equally well.O

Have fun in the pool and let us know how it works.

EDIT: Looking at pictures of both the Mares and Apeks side by side, the Apeks looks narrower and the position of the lower cam band slots and grommets look a little different, with the grommets seemingly closer on the Apeks.

IMG_0339.JPG IMG_0338.JPG
 
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FC Plate version 4 with the Mares XR 22lb Wing. Looks like I have my rig for Fiji. Second pool session with the plate and it is beyond comfortable compared to any BC I've used and fits my back better than the plain xDeep Ghost setup.

If you're a wallflower and don't want any attention at the pool, don't do it. ;-)

Wing trimmed out fine and didn't have any problems with floating the rig or providing enough lift even when bringing up all the test weights at once. Tank rides on the rails and fits nicely into the top part of the wing. No problems with the long/narrow Wing getting in the way of the valves or hoses. Even when the tank was empty (600psi) the rig trimmed out fine.

Full 3mm wetsuit, AL80 in fresh pool water...no additional weights needed at 12' with the empty tank. Guessing at about 1lb negative. It was close. Next weekend will be in Salt Water, so that will be my final test prior to Fiji.

Inflator is heavy. If you're looking for an inflator valve that won't be floating above your ears, this one is worth a try.

The Akimbo PVC trick didn't really work for getting out of the rig once the webbing was wet. Initially tried to match the width of the PVC to the width of the webbing. Looks like the width of the PVC really needs to mate up the the inside width of the D ring so the webbing doesn't ride off the edge of the PVC.

Plate rails did not cause any problems with making the tank straps too short. Would still easily fit an 8" tank.

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The Akimbo PVC trick didn't really work for getting out of the rig once the webbing was wet. Initially tried to match the width of the PVC to the width of the webbing. Looks like the width of the PVC really needs to mate up the the inside width of the D ring so the webbing doesn't ride off the edge of the PVC.

I defaulted to matching the width of the pipe to the D-ring rather than the webbing so never tried the alternative. Good to know. I think the optimum solution "might" be a hard-to-form piece of stainless welded or screwed on the back side of the bottom slots, but never tried it to know for sure. A piece of UHMWPE screwed on might work even better. That was going to be my next experiment if the D-ring & pipe kludge didn't work for me.
 
I defaulted to matching the width of the pipe to the D-ring rather than the webbing so never tried the alternative. Good to know. I think the optimum solution "might" be a hard-to-form piece of stainless welded or screwed on the back side of the bottom slots, but never tried it to know for sure. A piece of UHMWPE screwed on might work even better. That was going to be my next experiment if the D-ring & pipe kludge didn't work for me.

I'll leave the real fabrication to people who don't break things rather than fix them ;-)

Plenty of PVC around so will try it wider to be able to use next weekend.

But, even if it's no better than it is now, that is still an awesome and simple slider that makes getting into the rig (wet or dry) a breeze.
 
I have used mine now for several OW classes (pool and quarry). I put tri-slides on my straps, behind the plate, at the waist belt/shoulder strap holes. I wanted to make sure it would NOT adjust easily - so it doesn't get out of adjustment by accident.

I have no problem sliding in and out of it easily. Wet or dry (meaning, my wetsuit is wet or dry - I haven't dived my FP in a drysuit). On the surface or in the water.

What are y'all doing that makes it where you need such easy adjustability? Changing between wetsuit and drysuit? Not using a crotch strap?
 
What are y'all doing that makes it where you need such easy adjustability? Changing between wetsuit and drysuit? Not using a crotch strap?

Can only speak for me.... Shoulders. They are big compared to my waist. And probably more importantly, after injuries and surgery, that wide open maw is quite inviting.

Required? No. Just taking some creature comforts where they are easy and create no downsides. Still use the tri-slides to limit the range of motion available.
 
It would be easier to make slider if the slots were parallel. however the way they are with the shoulder strap going into the 30 degree angled slot and the waist strap leaving a verticle slot makes for a very nice, natural angle, bind up free configuration.

I have used sliders in the past and found that I needed a crotch strap to keep the rig from contantly riding up to where it’s finally so high that it was up behind my head.
Using the Akimbo roller sliders work for sure but it can also eventually frey the edges of the webbing where it constantly rubs in the slots when being adjusted. You need to know that by going to this method the webbing becomes a moving part, which becomes a wearing part, and it will eventually need to be changed out. I do my best to deburr and round over all the slots, but no matter how nice they are there will still be wear and tear. It is metal vs nylon (or poly) after all.
Just sayin’.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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