Tinkle p-valve install in a compressed neoprene drysuit.

[Diver Stan]

Have you or anyone you know installed a Light Monkey Tinkle p-valve on a crushed Neoprene drysuit?

I installed LM p-valve onto my Pinnacle Black Ice drysuit five years ago using Auto\Marine Silicone to form a gasket to allow the valve to be removable for cleaning.

This technique worked well, until the crushed neoprene stretched over time and a minor leak started last year. I added a extra layer or two of Silicone, a bit too enthusiastically, thickening the gasket, which encouraged me to tighten the valve nut too much which temporarily staunched the leak but caused the crushed neoprene to creep and recede and to leak again with gusto recently.

Silicone is great but quite stretchy and does not stabilize the neoprene beneath.

I repaired the now former hole in the suit and am left with the LM tinkle valve waiting for attachment on the opposite leg.

I found out neoprene is known to creep, thus the recommendation from Pinnacle, LM, and others to glue the valve directly to the suit with AquaSeal permanently and leave it be. Aquaseal is fairly hard and inflexible and may stabilize the crushed neoprene and prevent creep and stretching. .

I am stubborn, don't like Aquaseal, and still want this valve to be removable, so adding gaskets has been suggested.

The problem with the Tinkle valve is that the clearance between the base and the sealing external nut is not very wide due to the valves low profile; introducing two thin neoprene gaskets glued to the suit may end up crushing the neoprene way too much at the start.

I have some hard nylon washers that are thinner than rubber gaskets and would fit in the gap if glued in with Aquaseal or silicone, but these are not flexible enough to seal against the nut on the water side of the suit and may cause a leak.

I am thinking about this way too much and not diving the suit.

Have you successfully installed a Light Monkey Tinkle valve on a Pinnacle Black Ice or other crushed Neoprene drysuit so you can remove it for cleaning?

Suggestions are appreciated.

I may retire the valve to a 7-mil wetsuit, and pick up a Dive-Rite relief valve which has gaskets.

--Stan

 

[tech3324]

I have a DR valve in a Fusion suit and plan to use that valve in a 4mm neoprene suit soon. I hadn't realized that installing through neoprene could be a concern. I'm hoping to install just using gaskets like I did in the Fusion, no gluing so it's easily removable. With the Fusion I used a drycore patch to add a mounting surface on the inside. I wonder if that would work with neoprene, just a thin patch to stabilize the neoprene surrounding the mounting hole.

Sorry I can't help more now, but should know more when I get the neoprene suit.

 

[Diver Stan]

Thanks for your reply, I may order a DR before I punch a new hole in the suit.

I believe that the DR is a fine removable p-valve for a neoprene drysuit. Take a look at the following link for a DIY install of an OMS valve (very similar, if not identical to the DR) on a neoprene suit : Scuba Crap: Installing a pee valve
The blogger used several coats of neoprene glue to seal the fabric and attached the gaskets to that surface. A good idea.

The interior surface of my Pinnacle drysuit is made with merino wool which is thick and porous, so it needs something that flows, Marine silicone sealant, AquaSeal or neoprene glue to seal the surface.

In your case you can assemble and test for leaks without gluing, but be careful about tightening the valve nut a lot to attain a seal if you see leaking. The creeping of the neoprene happens slowly.

Good luck, I really like diving a neoprene suit, flexible and warm. Enjoy.

I have a DR valve in a Fusion suit and plan to use that valve in a 4mm neoprene suit soon. I hadn't realized that installing through neoprene could be a concern. I'm hoping to install just using gaskets like I did in the Fusion, no gluing so it's easily removable. With the Fusion I used a drycore patch to add a mounting surface on the inside. I wonder if that would work with neoprene, just a thin patch to stabilize the neoprene surrounding the mounting hole.

Sorry I can't help more now, but should know more when I get the neoprene suit.

 

[tech3324]

Thanks Stan, I bookmarked that link, sounds like perfect installation technique for neoprene. I also replaced the plastic barb fitting with brass as was shown, and used the same QR fittings. I really recommend the DR p-valve, zero problems and never a leak. There's a $10 rebuild kit for it on DGX, as apparently the duckbill valve will fail at some point.

 

[Tbar]

The blogger used several coats of neoprene glue to seal the fabric and attached the gaskets to that surface. A good idea.

The interior surface of my Pinnacle drysuit is made with merino wool which is thick and porous, so it needs something that flows, Marine silicone sealant, AquaSeal or neoprene glue to seal the surface.

This glue can be use to build-up and flows well. G-Dive G-Glue Contact Adhesive, 4oz Can w/Applicator

 

[sunnyboy]

To answer the OP's question, yes. I installed a LM p-valve in a CF200. I used aquaseal that was supplied with the valve and it has not leaked.

I also had a halcyon p-valve in a TLS350 (glued in at the factory using aquaseal) that I had to replace when the older style check valves would no longer work (even with refurbishing). It was easy to remove even though glued in place, and not that hard to clean up (toluene) and then glued in a new valve. It too has not leaked.

While i can understand not liking a particular glue but when it's the superior solution... sometimes you really should just go for it.

 

[Diver Stan]

Thanks all , I popped the hole and applied several thin coats of black neoprene cement to both sides of the suit to create a contact surface. I glued a thin rubber gasket cut from a truck innertube on the inside using aquaseal and am compressing the valve contact area of the suit between steel washers tonight.

Tomorrow, I'll create an external gasket with Marine Silicon sealant and it will be done.

Try to dive it this weekend.

Cheers,

 

[Dive Right In Scuba]

Thanks all , I popped the hole and applied several thin coats of black neoprene cement to both sides of the suit to create a contact surface. I glued a thin rubber gasket cut from a truck innertube on the inside using aquaseal and am compressing the valve contact area of the suit between steel washers tonight.

Tomorrow, I'll create an external gasket with Marine Silicon sealant and it will be done.

Try to dive it this weekend.

Cheers,

Sorry, I'm here late. You're doing more than you need to, but rest assured it will work. You won't need the outside silicon, your neo cement is adequate. Just tighten everything you have done, and leak test it. Now, after your first dive, tighten everything again. As it compresses, you will need to tighten it. This should be checked every dive for the first 10, then ever 30 or so after that. After 100 dives, you're golden