I've used 460s before. They're difficult to get onto the Diving Concepts rings but stay dry...about half the time. 
Ultima Dry Glove System question
- Thread starter Basking Ridge Diver
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Good info!
I've been using the 720s and 660s both in large. I'm having a very hard time putting the XL 640s on a set of rings. 640s are what I have laying around.
I can get the 640s on the rings but the problem is when I try to work the glove forward to remove any extra pvc the glove slips forward and I'm back at square one. Are the 640s going to be just a pain? I don't remember this much trouble with the 660 or 720.
I can get the 640s on the rings but the problem is when I try to work the glove forward to remove any extra pvc the glove slips forward and I'm back at square one. Are the 640s going to be just a pain? I don't remember this much trouble with the 660 or 720.
Deep South Divers
Contributor
I haven't seen or used a 640 before:
https://www.magidglove.com/mobile/s...ble-dipped-pvc-glove-with-vinyl-sleeve-1.aspx
Do you mean a 460?
I have never used anything with a furry interior, including the 460s and 282s, which MaxBottomtime seems to lean toward. I figured they'd be a nightmare to dry if they got wet, and using gloveliners in a plain glove would make more sense since I could easily throw the gloveliner in the washing machine. I also figured I'd have less issues with the rings sealing in a non-furry, plain glove.
...But he apparently is using BOTH a furry glove AND a gloveliner to stay warm! I bet it's nice - I'd just have to try it to see how bad the bulk would bother me. I bet it's warm!
https://www.magidglove.com/mobile/s...ble-dipped-pvc-glove-with-vinyl-sleeve-1.aspx
Do you mean a 460?
I have never used anything with a furry interior, including the 460s and 282s, which MaxBottomtime seems to lean toward. I figured they'd be a nightmare to dry if they got wet, and using gloveliners in a plain glove would make more sense since I could easily throw the gloveliner in the washing machine. I also figured I'd have less issues with the rings sealing in a non-furry, plain glove.
...But he apparently is using BOTH a furry glove AND a gloveliner to stay warm! I bet it's nice - I'd just have to try it to see how bad the bulk would bother me. I bet it's warm!
Sorry I knew later I had the wrong glove. It's the 620s that I'm struggling with.
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Ah, gotcha.
Hm. The 620 is the same glove in every way as the 660, except that it's a little thinner and is a different color.
I've never personally messed with the 620s, except that I once owned a set of DUI drygloves (the kind with their own built-in wrist seal)... Which I happen to know started life as a set of SHOWA 460s... Which are just a set of "furry" lined 620s. I've never tried to put a set of 620s on a set of Ultima rings.
Interesting that they'd be more difficult than the 660s or 720s - it would seem that they'd be easier to load than the 660s and and almost as easy as the 720s.
FWIW... Waterproof sells an all-latex glove that is supposed to be what goes on the Ultima rings. Dive Right In Scuba sells it - and a similar off-brand glove as well that is also all-latex and half the price. These gloves are much stretchier than anything we're playing with here, and are way easier to load than the gloves we're using. Problem is... They're latex - like a rubber band or a latex wrist seal. They're super fragile in my opinion, and have virtually zero resistance to cuts and punctures. In a completely recreational dive setting they probably work just fine, though, which is why I mention them. Personally, diving for work in areas with barnacles and oysters mean I need something tougher... But maybe you don't.
Of interest, another well-respected dryglove ring manufacturer - KUBI - ONLY works with latex gloves. The design of the rings does not allow for anything thicker than a latex glove... So there's apparently a consensus amongst dryglove ring manufacturers about using latex gloves.
It's important to note, though, it you do go with a latex glove: You will always want to dive with a glove liner inside a latex glove. Latex has zero insulative properties, unlike nitrile and PVC. They're downright cold without a liner.
My advice? Stick to the SHOWA 720s. Upsize and wear a glove liner if the water temp goes below 40.
That simple.
Hm. The 620 is the same glove in every way as the 660, except that it's a little thinner and is a different color.
I've never personally messed with the 620s, except that I once owned a set of DUI drygloves (the kind with their own built-in wrist seal)... Which I happen to know started life as a set of SHOWA 460s... Which are just a set of "furry" lined 620s. I've never tried to put a set of 620s on a set of Ultima rings.
Interesting that they'd be more difficult than the 660s or 720s - it would seem that they'd be easier to load than the 660s and and almost as easy as the 720s.
FWIW... Waterproof sells an all-latex glove that is supposed to be what goes on the Ultima rings. Dive Right In Scuba sells it - and a similar off-brand glove as well that is also all-latex and half the price. These gloves are much stretchier than anything we're playing with here, and are way easier to load than the gloves we're using. Problem is... They're latex - like a rubber band or a latex wrist seal. They're super fragile in my opinion, and have virtually zero resistance to cuts and punctures. In a completely recreational dive setting they probably work just fine, though, which is why I mention them. Personally, diving for work in areas with barnacles and oysters mean I need something tougher... But maybe you don't.
Of interest, another well-respected dryglove ring manufacturer - KUBI - ONLY works with latex gloves. The design of the rings does not allow for anything thicker than a latex glove... So there's apparently a consensus amongst dryglove ring manufacturers about using latex gloves.
It's important to note, though, it you do go with a latex glove: You will always want to dive with a glove liner inside a latex glove. Latex has zero insulative properties, unlike nitrile and PVC. They're downright cold without a liner.
My advice? Stick to the SHOWA 720s. Upsize and wear a glove liner if the water temp goes below 40.
That simple.
I've never tried both together. I'd never be able to manipulate the buttons on my housing if I did that. When the furry gloves leaked, which they did a lot I would throw them in the dryer for a couple cycles. If they never leaked I would prefer the furry gloves but I'd rather stay dry, especially since I'm not using wrist seals.I have never used anything with a furry interior, including the 460s and 282s, which MaxBottomtime seems to lean toward. I figured they'd be a nightmare to dry if they got wet, and using gloveliners in a plain glove would make more sense since I could easily throw the gloveliner in the washing machine. I also figured I'd have less issues with the rings sealing in a non-furry, plain glove.
...But he apparently is using BOTH a furry glove AND a gloveliner to stay warm! I bet it's nice - I'd just have to try it to see how bad the bulk would bother me. I bet it's warm!
I'm hoping the NSK24s and the 720s I ordered will be long enough and not puncture easily. If so, maybe I'll finally be able to convince Merry to try dry gloves again. She's watched me go through so many leaking gloves that she's convinced they don't work.
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Ah, I see.
It was your exercise with the Ultimas and removing the wrist seal that really gave me the idea that I might actually be able to finally get a dry dive. A year or two ago I tried it too... Essentially trimming back the wrist seals that weren't doing me any good anyway... And it's been absolutely wonderful. I have you to thank for it!
Here's a video of why wrist seals don't work for me:
It was your exercise with the Ultimas and removing the wrist seal that really gave me the idea that I might actually be able to finally get a dry dive. A year or two ago I tried it too... Essentially trimming back the wrist seals that weren't doing me any good anyway... And it's been absolutely wonderful. I have you to thank for it!
Here's a video of why wrist seals don't work for me:
Deep South Divers
Contributor
Since that time, I've probably put 400 or 500 dives on drygloves - after all, I dive for a living - and have added two glove sponsors to our long list of supporters: SHOWA and Ansell - the biggest glove companies in the business.
It has allowed us (there's 26 divers working for me today) to really get to know drygloves.
I think you'll find what you're looking for in the 720s... With the addition of a Fourth Element Xerotherm glove liner if it's cold enough for it - 'cause the 720s are already fairly insulative on their own... At least, much more so than any PVC glove like the 660s. You won't have any issues with sealing, either, since they're smooth and seamless and have low-pile synthetic liners.
The NSKs are thicker and a bit more cumbersome - but I suspect more rugged. They are definitely longer, which might work out well for you... But I did realize today as I was putting them away that they DO have a seam in the liner inside. It's so flat that I didn't notice it - and the nitrile dip is so smooth that I don't think it'll give you an issue with sealing... But it is NOT a seamless glove like all the others we've talked about here.
One last thing: I found out from SHOWA that the 660s are available in a "long" and "extra long" version. Here's the scoop:
660s and 720s both come in the same length: 300mm to 320mm, depending on what size you get.
660s are available in a special-order 340mm length and a 360mm length, regardless of glove size.
The 720s arent, unfortunately... Although I've already put in a request for them for you.
It has allowed us (there's 26 divers working for me today) to really get to know drygloves.
I think you'll find what you're looking for in the 720s... With the addition of a Fourth Element Xerotherm glove liner if it's cold enough for it - 'cause the 720s are already fairly insulative on their own... At least, much more so than any PVC glove like the 660s. You won't have any issues with sealing, either, since they're smooth and seamless and have low-pile synthetic liners.
The NSKs are thicker and a bit more cumbersome - but I suspect more rugged. They are definitely longer, which might work out well for you... But I did realize today as I was putting them away that they DO have a seam in the liner inside. It's so flat that I didn't notice it - and the nitrile dip is so smooth that I don't think it'll give you an issue with sealing... But it is NOT a seamless glove like all the others we've talked about here.
One last thing: I found out from SHOWA that the 660s are available in a "long" and "extra long" version. Here's the scoop:
660s and 720s both come in the same length: 300mm to 320mm, depending on what size you get.
660s are available in a special-order 340mm length and a 360mm length, regardless of glove size.
The 720s arent, unfortunately... Although I've already put in a request for them for you.
Last edited:
I looked at the 660s before but the Showa website lists them as 12". I need at least 14" or they pop off when I reach for the dive ladder.
Similar threads
