Why did they stop making metal regs?

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SwimJim

My expensive Rx bifocal mask is too precious to lose or break now :(

I only did that when I used my Dacor DM10 plain round mask and have photos of me around somewhere the winter of 1971 - 72 down in FLA.

Those were the days of diving simplicity........

dhaas
 
Modern plastic second stages are getting much better, but some of them still crack way too easily. The older ones from the 80 (and probably 90’s) were terrible. They seem to crack if you looked at them wrong.

I have several recent model Aqua Lung second stages that are useless because cracks on the housing.

I have seen some heavily abused Scubapro 109 metal second stages that are missing a lot of chrome, but they still work just fine.
 
Modern plastic second stages are getting much better, but some of them still crack way too easily. The older ones from the 80 (and probably 90’s) were terrible. They seem to crack if you looked at them wrong.

I have several recent model Aqua Lung second stages that are useless because cracks on the housing.

I have seen some heavily abused Scubapro 109 metal second stages that are missing a lot of chrome, but they still work just fine.

And if they get dinged they can be straightened. If they rip or come apart somewhere they can be soldered. I soldered up a split clamp ring for my metal conshelf and it worked fine.

In another case I had that 108 that hardly had any chrome left so I sanded it all off and polished up the brass.
Theoretically if a beloved vintage metal reg ever did need more metal put on somewhere because it got too thin it could be metal sprayed and resurfaced.
I'm just saying.
 
...Theoretically if a beloved vintage metal reg ever did need more metal put on somewhere because it got too thin it could be metal sprayed and resurfaced...

Are you kidding me! If you can pound a stainless steel Freedom Plate into shape you could remake any part of a brass second stage housing in about a third the time... you might need some smaller hammers though. :wink:
 
And if they get dinged they can be straightened. If they rip or come apart somewhere they can be soldered. I soldered up a split clamp ring for my metal conshelf and it worked fine.

In another case I had that 108 that hardly had any chrome left so I sanded it all off and polished up the brass.
Theoretically if a beloved vintage metal reg ever did need more metal put on somewhere because it got too thin it could be metal sprayed and resurfaced.
I'm just saying.


One redeeming feature of a plastic regulator is that they can be recycled into a fleece sweater. :wink:

I had three extremely corroded 109 that I sent to mr. Douchebag (master re-chromer) and he did a fantastic job. He had to re-plate a lot of copper in order to fill very deep pits.

The most time consuming part (from what he told me) was all the time he spent salvaging the serial numbers. The plating process fills the serial numbers just like it filled the pits and he such a perfectionist he made it a point to save the serial numbers.

After polishing it, and re-chroming them, they look better than new. :D

So yes, classic metal regulator can always be restored, but must of them just need a little TLC to clean them up and a little service and they are good to go.
 
OK Mr. Freedom Plate, you started this thread, so now you'll have to answer this question. How come when we were diving metal regulators


we were using plastic backpacks
Backpack_2.jpg


but now we are diving metal backplates and plastic regulators? :confused:
 
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And if they get dinged they can be straightened. If they rip or come apart somewhere they can be soldered. I soldered up a split clamp ring for my metal conshelf and it worked fine.

Could you give more details of this? Apparently, after my latest re-chrome, one of the rings had an area of "decay" - could this be from embrittlement? Anyway, I swapped out the ring from my KMB band mask, but I'd like to try to repair this ring...
 
All,

These aren't really "vintage," since the regs in the first pic were purchased between 1987 and ~1993. And those in the second pic were purchased ~1983. But, I thought I would offer this anyway.

I purchased the regs in the first photo (2 x Balanced Adjustable, G250, and D400) with 3 x Mk 10 firsts. They were "perfect" regs until I began using cave-filled HP tanks in very cold Great Lakes water. Then I briefly switched out the firsts for Poseidon Odin firsts (to handle the tank pressure and the cold), before replacing the seconds with Poseidon Odin seconds. (Some free-flow drama on back-to-back deep air dives in Lake Huron convinced me that 1st and 2nd stages which are designed as a system "should" be dived together as a system during more demanding dives.)

Anyway, the SP's served perfectly after that as deco bottle regs, with one of the Balanced Adjustables—the one with the clearest etching on its bezel—being used exclusively for overboard oxygen. And even now I use/prefer the SP's when I'm not diving cave-filled HP tanks in very cold water. The G250 breathes every bit as nicely as the Balanced Adjustables, and has held up every bit as well. I have zero complaints about it, and I have never regretted purchasing it. (BTW, I service the firsts and seconds myself—except for the D400, my favorite 2nd for rec dives in temperate water, which has never been serviced beyond its initial out-of-the-box service. The internals of my early-edition G250 and the Balanced Adjustables are almost identical.)

About the second photo: This reg belongs to a friend who graduated our university scuba course years before I did, years before I met him. After he had been a TA for the course for several semesters, he left for a couple of years to be a scuba instructor on Grand Cayman. I met him when he returned to complete his university degree and continue on to graduate school. He was my TA. He took this req with him when he instructed in GC, where it saw extremely heavy use, and perhaps not the best of care, though carefully rinsed under pressure at the end of each day of work, he said. (Note the pitting/dents on the chrome and the missing chrome.) About a dozen years ago, he asked me to service/rebuild his reg. It hadn't been used then for about 10 years. When I took apart the reg, I was amazed at the condition of its internal parts: almost pristine! After reassembling it, I test dove it, and it performed every bit as well as my own regs! This vintage of SP regs is remarkable! I hope Scubapro is still manufacturing to this degree of outstanding quality!

Oh, why do I still have his reg? Well, he didn't go diving after all after I serviced his reg, so he asked me to just hang on to it. That was about a dozen years ago. When we chat from time to time, I remind him I still have it. "Just hang on to it, please."

Safe Diving,

Ronald

EDIT: Just spoke with my friend, the owner of the reg in the second photo. He said he took this reg with him to GC in 1978. So I guess it's "vintage" gear after all!
 

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OK.....so now Mr. Freedom Plate, you started this thread, so now you'll have to answer this question. How come when we were diving metal regulators


we were using plastic backpacks
Backpack_2.jpg


but now we are diving metal backplates and plastic regulators? :confused:
Wow! that one took me off guard! :clapping:
That's a very interesting observation.

Maybe it's time to think about the polished all stainless "Freedom" second stage.
It would be lighter and stronger than brass, it wouldn't have to be chromed, and it would be more corrosion resistant :hm:
It would also be weldable.
 
Could you give more details of this? Apparently, after my latest re-chrome, one of the rings had an area of "decay" - could this be from embrittlement? Anyway, I swapped out the ring from my KMB band mask, but I'd like to try to repair this ring...

I don't know if soldering would work for every application like holes. It might though.
You have to clean and flux the part then use solid core soldering wire and a very small butane or MAP gas torch. Heat up the part just enough to melt the solder and keep adding solder as it melts all the while going in and out with the torch just holding the temperature where the lead melts. If you get it too hot it will all run off and you'll have to start over. It takes paractice.
I used to use lead on auto body work so I got to where I could work with it pretty good.
 

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