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1000 USD? Hmmm ... here is what I would do:

HOG D1 Singles package (Total cost 513. USD)

Hog D1 Singles Regulator Package w/ SPG | Scuba Regulator Packages | Dive Right In Scuba | www.diverightinscuba.com - Dive Right in Scuba

HOG Hogarthian package (Total cost 394.USD)

Hog Hogarthian Package - Dive Right in Scuba

For fins I would not go with anything other than the following:

1. Scubapro Jets
2. Hollis F1
3. Hog Tec 2
4. XS Turtles

Most expensive in there is Hollis F1 for 159.00

For Dive computer Mares Puck (Total Cost 149.00)

http://www.leisurepro.com/p-mrspwc/mares-puck-wrist-computer

Lets see where we are at:

513
394
159
149

1215 USD and you are equipped with the most "no-nonsense" gear out there.
 
You could shave off the $215 by buying cressi regs. And accel fins.
 
BEST REG YOU CAN BUY.... I sure am glad I got a good one. A wiser man (many) than myself once said, as long as you have air you can deal with any problem.

This is exactly the kind of misinformation that sells high end regulators to new divers. The implication here is that somehow spending more money on a regulator means you will have air, when you otherwise would not, or be safer when diving. Total BS!

Another bit of nonsense in this post is that regulator failure is dangerous. It is not; diving without a reliable alternative source of air, specifically a buddy and/or immediate access to the surface, is. That's why the buddy system, sharing air, and observing depth/overhead limits to provide immediate access to the surface are included in every OW class.
 
This is exactly the kind of misinformation that sells high end regulators to new divers. The implication here is that somehow spending more money on a regulator means you will have air, when you otherwise would not, or be safer when diving. Total BS!

Another bit of nonsense in this post is that regulator failure is dangerous. It is not; diving without a reliable alternative source of air, specifically a buddy and/or immediate access to the surface, is. That's why the buddy system, sharing air, and observing depth/overhead limits to provide immediate access to the surface are included in every OW class.

I was going to say something along those lines and then I was like "meh".
 
My dive instructor said that your 2 big purchases (after the mask snorkel and fins) Should be the regular and dive computer (or either regulator and BCD). Basically the items that will mean life or death.

For regulators one guy that I spoke to prefers an overbalanced regulator because it's alot easier to breathe through when u dive deep. This is a great question because I started diving last year have the basic gear and just need the bulk. The main stuff. And I think he said aqua lung was the company that provides a lifetime warranty if something breaks it gets replaced. If you order from a shop make sure they're authorized dealers because if something malfunctions you are going to need to take it somewhere to get it serviced

If you buy your own tank I believe it's the steel tank that lasts the longest and is better for tropical weather. It's also heavier than the aluminum.
 
Personally I would buy the computer next if I were to buy anything more prior to being certified. That will probably help you the most with regards to keeping track of NDL etc
I agree get a computer because tables are sort of a pain. I was going to order the cressi giotto until someone talked me out of that to get the suunto d4i novos... And then there are computers out there that come with a compass....
 
try everything....dive everything....then buy what you like.
When I dove at Epcot (Disney) they had some pretty nice gear. All Scubapro. Regulator was scuba pro, bcd, and the fins were the spring loaded type and fit NICE. The scubapro wetsuits were very nice quality. Bcd fit so well
 
My dive instructor said that your 2 big purchases (after the mask snorkel and fins) Should be the regular and dive computer (or either regulator and BCD). Basically the items that will mean life or death.

For regulators one guy that I spoke to prefers an overbalanced regulator because it's alot easier to breathe through when u dive deep.

No offense, but there's a lot of BS in this post. First, no piece of equipment means "life or death". Jeesh, you'd think divers were dropping like flies due to bad equipment. DIVE BEHAVIOR is what determines safety, plain and simple.

Second, overbalanced regulators do not breathe alot better at depth. Overbalancing is nothing but marketing hype; IP rises more than the change in ambient pressure with depth because the exterior sealing diaphragm is slightly larger that the interior diaphragm. Since these regulators always use balanced 2nd stages, the increase in IP is simply offset by the balance chamber.
 
No offense, but there's a lot of BS in this post. First, no piece of equipment means "life or death". Jeesh, you'd think divers were dropping like flies due to bad equipment. DIVE BEHAVIOR is what determines safety, plain and simple.

Second, overbalanced regulators do not breathe alot better at depth. Overbalancing is nothing but marketing hype; IP rises more than the change in ambient pressure with depth because the exterior sealing diaphragm is slightly larger that the interior diaphragm. Since these regulators always use balanced 2nd stages, the increase in IP is simply offset by the balance chamber.
Agreed.

Waiting for someone to comment about "life support equipment" which is the biggest pile of bull that exists in the industry- the most critical piece of life support equipment a diver has is the piece of matter between their ears i.e. the brain.

There really is no such thing on the market as a poor regulator because if there was the manufacturer would either fail due to lack of sales or be in court for deaths/injuries caused by bad equipment. It is true that some may be better at others under certain conditions ie diaphragm compared to piston. Some may breathe fractionally better than others but I would bet 99% of divers in 99% of conditions would scarcely notice the differences.

Computers all use similar algorithms - all of which have been carefully tested and proven. Some are better suited to certain conditions such as repetitive diving or longer single dive time but they are all safe.

Dive conservatively and safely within your training, using common sense (which isn't that common IMHO) and use your equipment within its design parameters
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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