GoPro HD underwater blur fix

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Received my "kit" yesterday and by enclosed note, was the first one shipped. Everything is in the package, including instructions. Took off the black GoPro plastic retaining ring and applied the silicone sealant as instructed, had to read carefully as not exactly clear to apply to both camera and inner ring of adapter. Tighten the screws in a pattern like lug nuts on your car and I also opened the back of the housing before final tightening, to look and see if the entire area between the adapter and the housing looked "wet" with the sealant from behind. One last thing, place the assembly face down on the edge of a flat surface so that the front button hangs off and press down to make sure the adapter is seated well. Got a tiny bit additional tightening by pressing down and a tiny bit turn of the screws (don't over tighten). Looks sealed. You need to be careful with the silicone as it could cause a real mess if you get it in the wrong places i.e. the lens.

After it cures for 24hrs, will do the final assembly and take to my local dive shop and put in their pressure tester to check for leaks. Really easy procedure if you are careful.

This is a really "machined" enhancement and not cheezy looking like the flat plastic replacement or the other thing. Has threads to accept real filters and if you wish, Ikelite has a 55mm slip on filter that you can remove or apply underwater. You could use that over the clear UV filter that is part of the system but I'm thinking that an additional filter will reduce the amount of light coming to the CMOS so would be better to use one screw on filter. I have had success with my flat lens replacement + red filter, removing the topside red tint with software.

The last video I took with the flat lens was OK but R5 is just too wide angle for action shots. Probably will be really great for ~ 2-3 ft. I have shot helmet cam on my bike in R3 (720 60 fps) that turned out really nice but was with the original lens. Looking forward to action shots at R3. Let's see how it turns out in the pressure test. The only bad thing I can see happening is if you get voids in the silicone sealant with sloppy application but you only get leaks in front of the original lens, again, that's why I looked carefully under strong light from the inside of the housing to make sure there weren't voids in the sealant.

Stay tuned.
 
Got mine in today and assembled it.

What you are doing (in essence) is removing the black ring that holds the lens in place and replacing it with a filter holder. The holder has an o-ring that makes the area around the lens dry.

The design looks solid. Even if it were to fail you still have the original seal behind the lens protecting your camera. The filter itself looks like a stock filter that they just cut the edging to make it lower profile. So if it gets scratched you could go and get a 55mm UV filter and swap it out.

The silicone tube they send is huge (2.8 fl ozs when you really just need a dab) and is super easy to apply (I used the fat end of a toothpick to apply it and then used the thin end to scrape off any excess. I'll give it a try in the sink tomorrow.
 
Couple more thoughts, he instruction sheet has the quick mount attached, it is easier to work with the housing if you take off the quick mount. To line up the holes, you look through the back of the housing after placing the adaptor and housing together, after applying sealant, and holding up to the light.

If I were doing this again, I'd roll up a sheet of paper and make a cylinder to insert in the center of the adapter while applying sealant. I might also make a little paper ring dam, to protect the lens too.

I'm leaving mine open, not putting on the UV filter and "O" ring until it fully cures - not wanting the possibility of silicone or other chemical vapors being trappen in the space between the lens and outside glass, just a thought.
Sorry, done and no pictures while in process. There are pictures in the instruction sheet, maybe they will post those.
 
We are in the process of taking better pics for the instructions. As soon as we get the new pics placed in the instructions, we will post them on our web site. We appreciate the feed back. All suggestions will be taken, and may be put into the revised instructions. The instructions should be fairly easy, and we have tried to make them very detailed. If you have a question send us an email to info@snakeriverprototyping.com we are here to help. Thanks again for posting.

Instructions can be seen here; http://snakeriverprototyping.com/support.html
 
Last edited:
OK, so I took the assembled housing and modification to LDS and their pressure test will go to 300 ft. Only took it to 130. No leaks but desiccant balls are not uniform in size and a large ball was crushed by the glass as the glass pressed downward (I guess). Some dessication ball trash was in the space after pressure testing. The desiccant balls are not uniform in size so recommend to use the smallest size.

The area where the GoPro conical housing lens is, was bone dry by appearance. Water did infiltrate between the glass filter screw threads and the "O" ring space, but did not get past the "O" ring. I can see, over time, molecules of water could be theoretically pushed along by capillary attraction past the "O" ring so the desiccant balls are needed. Not really a leak but would seem possible for a few molecules of dihydrogen oxide to slip past over time.

The LDS had a 55mm Ikelite slip on red filter, however, there is not enough clearance between the outside of the adapter flange and the on/off button for the rubber skirt to slide past. If you went that route, would need to cut out a space in the rubber skirt but it probably would lose some tension and holding power to the 55 mm flange. Looked at the way it fit and if I didn't have anything else to do, would calculate if there was vignetting at 127 degrees, however, by visual, it looked like there would be. The screw-in 55 cut down filter would be the way to go. You can reduce the red tint in software.
 
Last edited:
We are in the process of taking better pics for the instructions. As soon as we get the new pics placed in the instructions, we will post them on our web site. We appreciate the feed back. All suggestions will be taken, and may be put into the revised instructions. The instructions should be fairly easy, and we have tried to make them very detailed. If you have a question send us an email to info@snakeriverprototyping.com we are here to help. Thanks again for posting.

Instructions can be seen here; Customer Support
More of a business suggestion: Ship smaller tubes of silicone. Seriously that tube is way more than anyone needs for this.
 
We have been looking for smaller tubes for 2 months. Smaller tubes require an order of 3000 pieces a week (one manufacturer's quote). We currently have inquiries in with other sealant manufacturers for job-sized clear silicone sealant. In the meantime, use the excess to fix your neighbor's aquarium. :) If anybody knows where we can find some 1-2 gram packages (other than Hardman's off-white stuff) please let us know.
 
We have unedited screen shots. One with the Blurfix one Without. Click on the photos button to the left. Both Videos were taken with no color correction. Video using the Blurfix was taken with the same clear UV filter included in all Kits. I think you'll see why we are so excited!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom