Assembling a New Regulator/Octo/Gauge

[JamieUSFGirl]

I just purchased an Oceanic Alpha 8 regulator as well as an Oceanic Slimline Octo and Veo 100 computer. Because I bought them all separately, I have to aattach the octo and computer to the reg, as well as the inflator hose. It seems that this is an easy task, but I have gotten conflicting information about whether or not to lube the connections. I've been told by 2 separate dive instructors/gear technicians that I do not and should not lube the connections because it will essentially destroy the o-rings. The instruction manual and everything I've read on-line says to lube with Christo-Lube, or silicone spray if I do not intend to use Nitrox (which I am not yet certified for, but may do soon). Now I am confused! Anyone have any input?? I'd appreciate any thoughts on this!

 

[jtpwils]

Lube is normally for o-rings that are sliding into or over things. Since the O-rings are basically being used in a "crush" application I don't think it's necessary - at least I didn't use any and it seems fine, although it's only been a handful of dives.

Since the lube is contraindicated because of Nitrox, which you are going to anyway, why consider it?

I don't know if your instructions include torque limits, or if you even have a torque wrench, but I was told 40 inch-pounds when assembling my inflator hose. Whatever you do, you do not want to make it "really tight" and risk stripping the threads, which you can see are pretty fine.

Hope that helps.
Jim

 

[fisheater]

No NEED for lube, lube can cause problems, so why do it? (I don't.)

 

[Blackwood]

Since the lube is contraindicated because of Nitrox, which you are going to anyway, why consider it?

"lube" isn't contraindicated by nitrox, just non-oxygen-compatible lubes ("silicon spray" for example).

If I don't have any personal insight into an issue, I'll give manufacturer specifications (i.e. silicon spray for non-nitrox applications, Christolube otherwise) more weight than the opinions of some random shop workers and on-line posts (this one included).

 

[k374]

I did not lube them and everything works just fine.

 

[waynne fowler]

This is a perfect example of why someone who doesn't know what they are doing should NOT screw with something that their life AND the life of a team mate may very well DEPEND upon.

Sorry for being crass but this is simply foolish. Are you going to bench test this reg too... how will you do that, what are you looking for when doing so, if you find something wrong what will you do about it and why?

Don't take this the wrong way but the dude living under the bridge for the last year shouldn't be doing brain surgery on himself tonight any more than you should be messing with your reg's..... ESPECIALLY since you don't even know if you should lube an o-ring or not... Holy gawd that's just scary...

 

[merxlin]

This is a perfect example of why someone who doesn't know what they are doing should NOT screw with something that their life AND the life of a team mate may very well DEPEND upon.

Sorry for being crass but this is simply foolish. Are you going to bench test this reg too... how will you do that, what are you looking for when doing so, if you find something wrong what will you do about it and why?

Don't take this the wrong way but the dude living under the bridge for the last year shouldn't be doing brain surgery on himself tonight any more than you should be messing with your reg's..... ESPECIALLY since you don't even know if you should lube an o-ring or not... Holy gawd that's just scary...

I'm going to disagree a little here. I think it is admirable that someone takes the initiative to assemble their own gear. That will allow them some familiarity with it, and maybe understand better if there is a problem perhaps how to fix it. And the OP stated that they got conflicting information about the lube, so they did some research and are looking to do it right.

Now, all that said, I would also say that the set up should be taken to a shop and tested to make sure the IP is correct, that the cracking pressure of the 2nd stages is right, etc. I've had brand new 2nd stages come in with a bad diaphram, and an octo that would not quit freeflowing. It will cost a few bucks, and hopefuly not more than they saved by not buying from a local shop.

 

[OneRestlessNative]

Wow, it seems now a days its easier to cast a stone than sharing some formal useful advice.

Jamie, this is a fairly easy task if you feel up to it. Last time I checked the guy who services my gear didn't have a PHD and my regs' work great!. We can assume that our equipment is tested prior to our purchase, but we can never be sure. We can assume that the guy on the bench wasn't stoned off his gourd assembling and testing it for you, but again we can never be sure. If you have any doubts follow the manufacturers recommendations or call for assistance if needed. O-rings are rubber and sensitive to some lubricants which may cause swelling and distortion. If you go with a non compatible lube for nitrox it will need to be cleaned more than likely. The lubrication on the O-ring simply keeps it from binding up and tearing as the fittings come snug. Is lubricating it critical? not really... Is it helpful? yes....

As always be cautious with new gear and newly serviced gear, just as you would with any other gear on any other dive. Any piece of gear could fail at any time regardless of who it was built or serviced by.

 

[herman]

While hose o-rings are static in service they are actually dynamic during installation....o-ring and mating surfaces slide past each other, therefore they should be lightly lubed. Now many many people get by with not lubing them, mainly due to the limited amount of movement after they seat. By lubed, it should be shinny and slick with no globs, very little is needed. To lube them or not is your choice, I do.

Then there is the choice of lubes. For air and nitrox up to rec levels silicone is perfectly acceptable, esp on LP hoses....and frankly spit works ok too. O2 lubes like Christolube are fine but totally unnecessary at lower pressures and lower O2 concentrations. It's only when you have high O2 pressures and concentrations that O2 lubes become necessary. Do not use spray silicones, some of them are not water based and will distroy O rings, it's just easier the avoid all spray lubes rather than figure out which is which. Most all dive shops sell small tubs of silicone grease that is fine for the hose O-rings.

 

[Teamcasa]

Exactly! Thanks for spelling it out. I'll add one more thought.

Attaching hoses to regulators is not brain surgery and is about a difficult as screwing a nut onto a bolt. Lubrication prevents the o-ring from distorting during assembly and you only need a very small amount to prevent any distortion.

While hose o-rings are static in service they are actually dynamic during installation....o-ring and mating surfaces slide past each other, therefore they should be lightly lubed. Now many many people get by with not lubing them, mainly due to the limited amount of movement after they seat. By lubed, it should be shinny and slick with no globs, very little is needed. To lube them or not is your choice, I do.

Then there is the choice of lubes. For air and nitrox up to rec levels silicone is perfectly acceptable, esp on LP hoses....and frankly spit works ok too. O2 lubes like Christolube is fine but totally unecessary at lower pressures and lower O2 concentrations. It's only when you have high O2 pressures and concentrations that O2 lubes become necessary. Do not use spray silicones, some of them are not water based and will distroy O rings, it just easier the avoid all spray lubes rather than figure out which is which. Most all dive shops sell small tubs of silicone grease that is fine for the hose O-rings.